Cyclone noise reduction.

[Louis Rucci]

I've decided where in my shop I'm going to hang my ClearVue system. It will be in the back left corner of my shop.

I plan on building two walls to enclose it and need some guidance on the best way to insulate the shop from the noise.

My shop is foam insulated throughout, so that should help reduce the noise from going outside.

I'm looking at a product called "Quiet Rock" from www.quietsolutions.com.

Has anyone done noise reduction on their system, and how did you do it?

Thanks.

[Jamie Buxton]

In my shop, the cyclone is not as loud as the machines generating the chips for the cyclone to collect. The saws, the shaper, and the jointer/thickenesser are all louder. So if the neighbors aren't complaining about those machines, they'd probably not be complaining about the cyclone.

[Steve knight]

I wish I did something with mine. when running my cnc router doing something that is not noisy the dc is the worst offended.
mufflers work well here is a sample http://billpentz.com/woodworking/cyclone/Muffler.cfm

http://www.pennstateind.com/store/TEMUFF-7.html
http://store.oneida-air.com/silencers.aspx

[Doug Shepard]

I got about 20dB noise reduction with my ClearVue just using 2" styrofoam on the closet walls and door. The rushing air at the machine ends is louder now than anything I can hear from the motor while I'm running it. I cant seem to find my own thread here but somewhere I've got before/after decibel reading numbers after everything but the machine hookups had been done. The cyclone by itself was a whopping 101dB IIRC but the ducting and filters will drop that too.

[Jim Becker]

My cyclone/compressor closet has drywall on the shop side; unfaced fiberglass insulation between the studs and 1/4" pegboard installed on the interior side with the rough side facing the noise. The air return baffle takes an indirect path via a folded duct constructed between two ceiling joists. My door is an insulated pre-hung steel door. The amount of noise reduction is substantial...when the cyclone is running with all the gates closed, it's just incidental background noise. The only time the sound level jacks up is when a gate is opened and that sound level is dependent upon hood design and the particular tool. (The J/P is the loudest in that respect)

[Don Bullock]

I got about 20dB noise reduction with my ClearVue just using 2" styrofoam on the closet walls and door. ...

My cyclone/compressor closet has drywall on the shop side; unfaced fiberglass insulation between the studs and 1/4" pegboard installed on the interior side with the rough side facing the noise. The air return baffle takes an indirect path via a folded duct constructed between two ceiling joists. My door is an insulated pre-hung steel door. ...

Pictures of these setups as well as any others would be very helpful to those of us contemplating doing this to our shops. Thanks.

[Doug Shepard]

Pictures of these setups as well as any others would be very helpful to those of us contemplating doing this to our shops. Thanks.

Don
There's more pics than you probably care to see on my album on ClearVue's gallery site. I spent a bunch of time making my closet somewhat modular just so I could break it down into about 5 pieces and put it back together with nuts/bolts just in case (god forbid) something goes awry with the DC motor and I need to uninstall the beast.
http://www.gallery2.clearvuecyclones...s-Mini-CV1400/

[Jim Becker]

Don, I've posted pictures of my setup a number of times here at SMC, including not long ago in this very forum. I didn't have time to search for the links this morning, unfortunately.

[Don Bullock]

Don, I've posted pictures of my setup a number of times here at SMC, including not long ago in this very forum. I didn't have time to search for the links this morning, unfortunately.

Thanks Jim. For those who want the information I found it at:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...ghlight=closet

and

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...hlight=cyclone

and

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...hlight=cyclone

[Ross Ellis]

There are a couple of other ways to achieve good sound isolation. One is a wall inside a wall method. Basically building a second interior wall inside your closet covered with drywall.

Another is using a product called green glue. Basically, you sandwich 2 layers of drywall together. The first layer screwed like normal. The second glued to the first with green glue. The product acts as an isolator between the two layers and reduces the sound vibration tremendously.

Also pay attention to the small details if you go this route. Caulk around fixture, sockets, seams every little crack. Every bit helps. It's super easy to use. Results are really amazing.

http://www.greengluecompany.com/

[Louis Rucci]

I've thought of that, but rejected it because of the increased loss of floor space, every little bit helps.

I may use alternating 2x4 studs on a 2x6, effectively isolating one side from another.

Green Glue sounds interesting. I'll look into it.

Many thanks for all the information.

[Louis Rucci]

Doug, you're a man after my own heart.

I was contemplating isolating the motor also. What did you use for isolators?

[Doug Shepard]

Louis
http://www.mcmaster.com was a frequent parts source during my DC install. That's where I got the vibration isolators among other things. Go to page 1350 on their online catalog.
Their online order history doesn't go back far enough for me to get the item numbers for the bigger ones I used on the motor mounts but I can dig for the receipt if you want me to. Basically just check their specs on that page for the load ratings then pick the mount type you need.
I also used isolators where all the hanger straps attach to the rafters with the threaded inserts into the rafters and isolators screwed into those. The item number on those small ones is #9376K24. I probably went isolator-overboard with the duct hangers, but the cost of all the isolators involved wasn't that much extra and it just wasn't something I wanted to kick myself later wishing I'd done. I think the 101db roar of the DC without ducting, filters, and closet put a healthy dose of noise paranoia into me. It's surprising now how little I actually notice the DC sound given the shock of the first power-on test.

[Bartee Lamar]

Here is the web album link for what I did.

IMG_2790.JPG IMG_2797.JPG

The door is not hinged because I did not have enough room to swing a door.

I have about 80% of the piping done and I can now tell you the machines are louder than the cyclone.

You can kill sound in two ways. Stop it from escaping from the source our deaden the sound waves with various densities of materials.

A one point in my life I built a recording studio. In that environment I was able to seal the rooms basically air tight. But in our environments that really not possible.

In the case of the cyclone enclosure room, I tried to do a little of both. I used a lot of mdf since it is dense. ( And I had it in the shop left over from another project ) I used 2" foam insulation boards because they are available and very easy to cut and work with.

The problem with air-tight, is you have to get the ductwork into the room and exhaust the air from the room back into the shop.

I used a section of the wall as an exhaust vent. Leaving the top open inside the room and the bottom open on the outside.

The amazing thing is how much quieter the system becomes as you hook up piping. I used 6" PVC. I am VERY pleased with the result for both sound and suckage.

My unit is a 3hp Grizzly.

[Louis Rucci]

Doug,thanks for the link.

I've gotten familiar with their offers, now I have to get the weight of the system.