Anybody ever made a (Japanese-style) wooden pull plane?

[David DeCristoforo]

Here are a couple of the Japanese style planes I made some years ago.

The one on the left (not made by me) is a "typical" red oak plane block (or dai) although the blades are anything but typical. The block is about 11.5" long. The middle plane is made of quarter sawn cocobolo and is about 18" long. The plane on the right is quarter sawn East Indian rosewood and is 26" long. I made these because I was unable to fine any Japanese made planes with what we would consider a "long jointer" configuration.

The sole of the long plane has a slight wave pattern to reduce friction. You can see the contact points in this pic:


The blades in these planes are all by respected artisan blacksmiths although none of them were ever available for sale in this country. (I got them through trades with a Japanese carpenter who needed shaper cutters !?!?). But these particular blades are very "special":

They are called Horyu or "Dragon's Treasure", forged by Misao Miyamoto and are inlaid with hard steel at the strike points to prevent the metal from deforming after repeated adjustment. These have nothing to do with making plane bodies but I just thought you might like to see them....

[Ben Fleis]

Here are a couple of the Japanese style planes I made some years ago.

The sole of the long plane has a slight wave pattern to reduce friction. You can see the contact points in this pic:

But these particular blades are very "special":
They are called Horyu or "Dragon's Treasure", forged by Misao Miyamoto and are inlaid with hard steel at the strike points to prevent the metal from deforming after repeated adjustment. These have nothing to do with making plane bodies but I just thought you might like to see them....

I do I do! Seeing them is excellent, along with the resulting planes you've made. Gorgeous.

Regarding the "wave" pattern -- is this somewhat akin to the ripples introduced by a machine jointer when running the board to fast? And did you ever tinker with corrugating in the typical stanley style? I have considered doing that on one of the Krenov style planes I am building, but didn't know if it would serve much purpose, since wood generally seems to slide nicely along on wood. Any further thoughts on the matter?

Thanks again for sharing the pics. It's enough to make me consider blowing $500 for that weekend course... but I suspect good fiscal sense will get the best of me.

-b

[David DeCristoforo]

"...ripples introduced by a machine jointer..."

Well... I guess. The idea is to have several contact points so that the entire sole is not in contact with the stock. It is a very mild "wave" created by scraping away a tiny bit of wood in between the contact points which you can see in the picture because they are more "polished" than the rest of the sole. We're only talking a few thousandths at the most.

[Charlie Mastro]

Beautiful blades David, I have never seen anything like that and also never seen the serial numbers before on any blades. Nice planes too.

[Pam Niedermayer]

...Thanks again for sharing the pics. It's enough to make me consider blowing $500 for that weekend course... but I suspect good fiscal sense will get the best of me.

Good fiscal sense dictates that you take the class. For example, you could then buy an off the shelf 54 mm plane and make a long dai to use the blade in a jointer, saving hundreds. Or you could buy a plane with a worn out/damaged dai and make a new one for the blade. And you'll also learn how to tune a Japanese plane properly.

Pam

[mike rawl]

Hi Ben,

I hope that you are enjoying CFC. It's a great school. I had a great time when I was in the 12 week class. I had a great group of classmates and I don't think I ever laughed so much in my life.

Making your own plane is the way to go. Making your own planes is something everyone should do. With Japanese planes this is especially true. There is a good chance that you will ruin a dia while you learn how to tune it correctly. I know I did. And it is easier, especially in the States, to make the replacement yourself.

While I have no doubt that the dai class is worth while, I do not think that it is necessary. I think the best way to start is with a laminated dai a la Krenov. This will allow you to make planes quicker (at first) and will make failed attempts less discouraging. Seth Janofsky makes Japanese style planes this way and there is an old "Woodwork" magazine that discusses his planes. I am sure CFC has it in its library.

The key to the dai is to make it the wedge shaped slots for the blade too tight. Run down the street and get yourself a plane making float from the LN store. Rub the back of the plane with a pencil and tap it firmly (and maybe a little more) into the new dai. Tap out the blade. Based on the blades distance from the mouth hog out the the areas where the pecil transfers to the dai. If you have a long way to go be, aggressive; if its close be delicate. Do not touch the area that establishes the blade angle. hogging out the the wood on the blade bed will alow you to work your way into a proper fit and it will allow you to curve the bed of the dai to fit the curve on the back of the blade, as it should.

Here is a link to an old Steve Night web page that shows him making a plane with slots cut in the laminated sides. A laminated Japanese plane is made basically the same way.
http://showcase.netins.net/web/iabon...ght/index.html

Have fun,
Mike

[mike rawl]

Dave, that Horyu plane is a beauty. In case you are curious, similar blades are not easy to find over here either. I have only seen them once at the Miki City tool festival and no where else. You are truly lucky to have them.

Mike

[David DeCristoforo]

"Good fiscal sense dictates that you take the class."

Plus, the opportunity to learn from a master of the caliber of the guy who teaches this class may not be open forever. There is something magical about watching these guys work. Magical but very humbling! I would consider the five bills "invested" not "dropped"....

[Dave Anderson NH]

I know I'm gonna get crucified for this one, but oh well.

If the craftsman makes both the plane body and the blade does that make him a ...tool and dai maker?

[Mike Henderson]

Here is a link to an old Steve Knight web page that shows him making a plane with slots cut in the laminated sides. A laminated Japanese plane is made basically the same way.
http://showcase.netins.net/web/iabon...ght/index.html

Have fun,
Mike

For anyone who looked at Steve's web page (the link given above), what are the threaded inserts used for? Any ideas?

Mike

[Charlie Mastro]

Adjustable mouth.

[David DeCristoforo]

"...does that make him a ...tool and dai maker?..."

Oooooo. Baaaad (insert rimshot here).

But actually the blacksmiths who forge these blades probably would not have a clue how to cut the blocks for them. Traditionally, it's all very specialized.

[Tom Godley]

Wow -- If I was able to go to that class in MA later this month I would go!

But, those days are a no go for me.

[Manny Hernandez]

Beautiful blades David, I have never seen anything like that and also never seen the serial numbers before on any blades. Nice planes too.

Once upon a time I was told that number, 1099224, is the equivalent of a patent number. Now Dave's picture confirms that because that same number is on my set of blades. That blade set is still being made. A fellow Daiku-Dojo member ordered one directly from Japan about a year ago. The vendor from Osaka, Tomohito-san, has one listed on his website. It's interesting that we were told Miyamoto-san stopped the habit of stamping that number on every set because the carpenters buying them did not like it. So, now it's optional when you order the blade set.

Manny

[Charlie Mastro]

That's very interesting Manny. Thanks