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Thread: IPI Laserables Problem

  1. #1

    IPI Laserables Problem

    Attached is an image of some parts I am making for a client.

    There are 2 problems I am having:

    1. The Raster pass is leaving black residue inside the Larger (2" x 2") letters.

    2. The vector cuts are still tacky after 12 hours.

    I think the vector problem is because I had left my other Acrylic settings in by mistake.

    The settings I used were:
    Raster power 10%, Speed 40%, PPI 1000, DPI 400
    Vector power 100%, Speed 5%, PPI 1000, DPI 400

    Laser bits recommends:
    Raster 15% power, 100% Speed, 500 DPI
    Vector 25% Power, 1.2% speed, 150 PPI

    Is there any way to fix these?

    Thanks,
    David
    Attached Images Attached Images
    PLS 3.60, CorelDraw X4, Full Adobe Maser Suite (oh yeah), 3ds Max, 6 Dell 690 Work Stations (and a host of other hardware).

  2. #2
    I use dna to clean the cut areas. That will dry them. I use only IPI and cut thousands of pieces per year. The dna works.

    You might try brushing mineral spirits on the surface before rastering. I just spray on, or dip into a diluted household cleaner before attempting to clean the area. Just a theory but I think it puts the residue in suspension then I can flush or wipe it off.

    I have not found air assist to be of any benefit for rastering this material.

    You can always use transfer paper but I don't as it just takes more time than it's worth on projects like this.
    Mike Null

    St. Louis Laser, Inc.

    Trotec Speedy 300, 80 watt
    Gravograph IS400
    Woodworking shop CLTT and Laser Sublimation
    Dye Sublimation
    CorelDraw X5, X7

  3. #3
    Thanks for the reply.

    What about the tacky edges?

    Thanks,
    David
    PLS 3.60, CorelDraw X4, Full Adobe Maser Suite (oh yeah), 3ds Max, 6 Dell 690 Work Stations (and a host of other hardware).

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Sammamish, WA
    Posts
    7,630
    Quote Originally Posted by David Dustin View Post
    Thanks for the reply.

    What about the tacky edges?

    Thanks,
    David
    That's what he meant by denatured alcohol for the cuts, You can also use an eraser. For the black residue on white I never have that problem unless I wipe it from the black onto the white after running.

    It might clean off with dna if you use a lot and do it several times, but it can also turn it to paint and make it permanent when it soaks into the rough engraved surface. If left on too long it can actually erode the edges of the black surface around the letters. I use Sprayway glass cleaner to wipe after engraving and it will remove the surface color reside without
    planting it onto the engraved letters.



    Sammamish, WA

    Epilog Legend 24TT 45W, had a sign business for 17 years, now just doing laser work on the side.

    "One only needs two tools in life: WD-40 to make things go, and duct tape to make them stop." G. Weilacher

    "The handyman's secret weapon - Duct Tape" R. Green

  5. #5
    Way off on the settings David. I keep forgetting what wattage you have, but my guess is that you need to be more like :

    Raster : 90-100% speed, 20-25% on power, Image Density of 5, PPI of 400-500.

    Vector : 6-10% on speed, 35-45% on power, PPI of 300 or so.

    I think the black might be that you didn't get through the cap sheet all the way. If you engrave it again, does it clean up? If so, then it's probably because you didn't get it cut through deep enough. Just my best guess from the speed/power you mentioned.

    Just as a side not,you should take the time to calibrate that material. The process is in the manual. It'll be time well spent.
    Lasers : Trotec Speedy 300 75W, Trotec Speedy 300 80W, Galvo Fiber Laser 20W
    Printers : Mimaki UJF-6042 UV Flatbed Printer , HP Designjet L26500 61" Wide Format Latex Printer, Summa S140-T 48" Vinyl Plotter
    Router : ShopBot 48" x 96" CNC Router Rotary Engravers : (2) Xenetech XOT 16 x 25 Rotary Engravers

    Real name Steve but that name was taken on the forum. Used Middle name. Call me Steve or Scott, doesn't matter.

  6. #6
    What manual?

    I have a 60 watt system.

    Thanks,
    David
    PLS 3.60, CorelDraw X4, Full Adobe Maser Suite (oh yeah), 3ds Max, 6 Dell 690 Work Stations (and a host of other hardware).

  7. #7
    You didn't get a manual with the machine?

    There's a process for tuning materials. It explains how to take a material and set a starting point and then gives you an example of what to engrave and watch for.

    Once you do it once, you make adjustments to the power, then get that tuned in, then you use the Image Enhancement tools to tune the laser to that material even further. It's a simple process, but takes a little time to do the first time or two. It makes a HUGE difference in getting your materials set right.

    If you need it, I can copy those pages from the manual and email them to you. I can't do it tonight, I'm behind the eight ball right now. Just waiting for one last thing to engrave and then I'm out of the office for the evening.

    You didn't get an owners manual?
    Lasers : Trotec Speedy 300 75W, Trotec Speedy 300 80W, Galvo Fiber Laser 20W
    Printers : Mimaki UJF-6042 UV Flatbed Printer , HP Designjet L26500 61" Wide Format Latex Printer, Summa S140-T 48" Vinyl Plotter
    Router : ShopBot 48" x 96" CNC Router Rotary Engravers : (2) Xenetech XOT 16 x 25 Rotary Engravers

    Real name Steve but that name was taken on the forum. Used Middle name. Call me Steve or Scott, doesn't matter.

  8. I know this sounds basic, but I have that trouble when the material is not lying flat. Sometimes a bit of double stick tape will take care of it.


    Marty

  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by Scott Shepherd View Post
    You didn't get a manual with the machine?
    I looked through the CD and did finally find the calibration section in the PLS manual (I have a VLS).

    The VLS in the manual looks nothing like mine....
    I guess it never seemed logical to read the manual for a different machine.

    Thanks for the tip.

    I will now go through and calibrate my materials (although I do find I like the images better when the image enhancement is off).

    David
    PLS 3.60, CorelDraw X4, Full Adobe Maser Suite (oh yeah), 3ds Max, 6 Dell 690 Work Stations (and a host of other hardware).

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