Losing power when engraving/cutting

[Michael Bareno]

I have a Epilog Mini18 35w and we have noticed when we engrave or cut using the whole work area that the engraving furthest away from the home position does not come engrave/cut well (see attached image).

We originally thought that the problem could be the vector grid, so we used the plate instead and get the same result. You can even see when cutting that the intensity of contact point of the laser and material is not as bright as when cutting closer to the home position.

Has anybody experienced this? What could be the cause of such problem and how to solve this?

Thanks for any help/suggestions.

[Darren Null]

Probably:
1) Beam out of alignment...drifting off to one side of the lens as the head gets further away. Solution: ((a), quick, most likely suspect) look at the mirror before the head or ((b), thorough) starting at the laser, make sure that the beam passes through the centre of the lens whatever the position of the head, ajusting each mirror as you go along.

or

2) Table not quite level. Solution: Make it level

or

3) Your lenses and mirrors may have enough cack on them that the distance is a factor. Solution: clean head lens and mirror, and the 2 mirrors before that.

[Joe Pelonio]

I'll add to the list of possible problems scratched/gold coat wear on lens or mirror, and the ultimate, tube going out. When mine went the 2nd time, this is how it started, the farthest place from the tube getting weaker. Naturally there is going to be some loss of power the farther the beam goes, but when all is working properly it's not noticeable.

[Brian DeNileon]

Michael,

All of the above would be correct. Anytime there is a loss of power in one quadrant or one corner of the table, it is either and alignment issue with the laser, a dirty or damaged optic, or the table is not level in that corner. I have written instructions on checking the laser beam alignment as well as leveling the table. I can send these to you by email if you would like. Just shoot me an email and I will reply with the instructions.

In the meantime, you can check the optics for any damage, being; burn marks, pock marks, scratches, cracks, flaking of the layers on the mirror or discoloration of any kind. To adequately check these, you will need to remove the lens carriage (lens and mirror) from the machine so that you can check the mirror above the lens. This is difficult, if not impossible, to do with the assembly in the machine.
If you look between the lens and mirror to the back plate that the assembly rides left and right on, you will see to small Allan Head Screws. Remove these screws and the whole carriage assembly will come off. Now you can examine the mirror above the lens.
Second, remove the left side of the machine. This is the gray panel held on with 6 Phillip Head Screws (4 on side and 2 down the back). This will provide access to the mirror on the left side of the I-beam as well as the optic in the periscope (orange box on left side). Clean and examine this mirror as well as clean the optic on top of the periscope.

If you are still having problems, let me know either by email or phone and I can at least send the instructions for checking the other things mentioned above.

Brian DeNileon
Epilog Technical Support
Ph:303-215-9171
Em: bmd@epiloglaser.com

[Michael Bareno]

Darren/Joe/Brian,
Thanks for the feedback.
I will be testing whether the table is level and the alignment of the optics this week. I'll let you know how it went.
Thanks again,

[Brian Robison]

HEY! It's my favorite tech person!
Glad you joined us Brian.
Thanks for all the help in the past.