Any experance with the digital height Gauge? The pic below is from Rockler. Wixy also has a similar unit.
Any experance with the digital height Gauge? The pic below is from Rockler. Wixy also has a similar unit.
"Remember back in the day, when things were made by hand, and people took pride in their work?"
- Rick Dale
The price tag is just a little over the top for me for what you get. I did this after seeing it in Wood(?). HF caliper = $6 or so on sale. I epoxied a flat washer to the tip after this pic was shot. It also works for fence depth when laid on it's back.
"A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".
– Samuel Butler
I haie the Wixey and I've found it quite reliable and accurate. It's very easy to set the height on saw blades and router bits.
Ray Scheller
Change is inevitable except from vending machines.
No prob. I just re-read my post. I didn't mean to make it sound like these items are not worth their price. I made the one pictured on a whim figuring I would get something serious later. I'd be lost without this thing or something like it. It just happened to work out better than expected.
TS blade height, RT bit height, fence depth, hand router bit depth, straight edge offset, etc. etc. Whatever version you get/make I am sure you will find it valuable ;-)
"A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".
– Samuel Butler
Height gauges are great on shapers, especially with cope and stick cutters. I wright down all my router and shaper set-ups in a loose leaf binder, it helps when you need to remake a rail or stile.
David Werkheiser
Just today I bought a digital fractional caliper on ebay. Depth settings is one of the reasons I want one. Converting decimals hurts my feeble brain .
If you go looking, be careful. Some are described as fractional and are not.
Dave, as long as you can zero out on a flat surface, there’s not much that can go wrong with them – they have been around machine shops for several years. Personally, I still prefer the direct reading vernier type. They’re absolutely bullet proof, unless you drop them, and batteries aren’t required.
Last edited by Bruce Page; 10-03-2008 at 9:22 PM.
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Andy Rooney
I have the Wixey and like it a lot. One of the reasons is that I like to be able to come back and set up my blade, dado, bit, etc. to an exact height so that I confidently have repeatablity.
I have the unit pictured. Previously I used a dial micrometer mounted to a piece of wood, which I think worked equally as well, except you can zero this one to any height and my micrometer travel was limited to 1". Since my calipers are digital and this height gauge is also, it is a piece of cake for to us wihtout having to convert to fractions and back to decimal.
I'm not sure I would have purchased without an incentive (ie., discount) but it was given to me as a birthday gift.
So - dumb question, but how do you use one of these? If you're adjusting TS blade height, don't you need one hand on the gauge and one on the handle?
I had been thinking of building one of these, but want to put a spring in it so that the "flat" piece that touches the top of the blade is always being pulled down by the spring. That way, if you want to set your blade to any given height, you just set the gauge over it, turn the handle, and the gauge instantly and constantly show the height without you having to mess with it.
I bought the Rockler version shown in the photo. After 5 minutes of usage, I returned it. I've since ordered the Wixey and like it much better.
OK, maybe a second dumb question...
I can see how one of these might be useful on say, a router table. But how do you use one of these on a tablesaw? Wouldn't it require finding the Top Dead Center of the arc of the blade, trying to hold the peak of one of the teeth directly at TDC with one hand, manipulating the height gauge with another, and adjusting the blade height with a third?
I've tried this approach in the past, and returned the device. It's always been vastly quicker to just cut a piece of scrap and measure the depth of cut with calipers.
Maybe I'm just missing something basic in my technique - but I can't see how this would give you something even close to repeatable.
Thanks!
I took a tip from somewhere and drew a set of cross-hairs on my blades with a magic marker. This make it relatively easy to get a tooth in the TDC position visually. It sounded kinda silly when I read the tip but in practice . . . its really pretty handy.
As long as the gauges contact area is wide enough to move the blade a few degrees either way to feel it touch, your good. The thing I don't see these doing well is horizontal work; bit to fence on a router or other 'near surface' measurement.
"A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".
– Samuel Butler