Signing Projects with a Laser Printer?

[Anthony Watson]

I'm curious if anyone here has used a laser printer to produce "signature" labels that can be affixed to your finished projects?

In the past, I have signed my projects (in out of the way locations) using a basic pencil. But my handwriting is terrible, especially when writing on a surface like wood. I've seen recommendations to use a Sharpie pen, woodburners, or engravers, but in my hands these would turn out even worse than a basic pencil.

I've read about using an iron and a "reverse" image to transfer the toner from the paper to the wood. But I don't own an iron, and would be worried about overheating the wood, or otherwise screwing it up.

I'm thinking more along the lines of a clear label that I could print on my laser printer, then affix it to the underside of my project and secure and protect it under the finish. I'm sure I've seen that approach somewhere, but I don't recall what type of paper they used or what the specifics of attaching it to the wood project were.

Anyone have experience doing this?

Thanks,

Anthony

[Chris Schumann]

Laser printer toner will flake off. If you want your mark to be permanent (and I think I would), a pen or marker would be appropriate. I've read that if you write slowly, your signature will look just like it did in third grade.

I'd be wary of using anything but paper under a finish.

If you do a lot of these, you might look into getting a brand made for burning it in, or a stamp to press into the wood.

[Neal Clayton]

any local jewelry/sign/glass shop with a laser engraver can make you custom stamps, i agree with that idea.

[Charlie Plesums]

Often I write my "inscription" (Custom made for John Doe by Charlie Plesums, Austin Texas, October 2008) on the bare wood, but if the customer wants a visible "signature" (I just had one request an inscription inside a drawer), I use the laser printer.

The toner is very fragile when it is first printed, but I spray the paper with a light coat of lacquer. Now the paper is moisture resistant and can be worked with.

I cut out the pieces of paper that I glue to the wood... a thin (even diluted) coat of carpenter's glue will hold it flush on the sanded wood.

When the label glue has dried, I then cover it with all the coats of finish that are normally applied to the furniture. With quite a few coats of finish, it is hard to feel the layer of paper. In a test piece that kicked around the shop for a few years, there was no degradation of the label.

[Dave Lehnert]

Often I write my "inscription" (Custom made for John Doe by Charlie Plesums, Austin Texas, October 2008) on the bare wood, but if the customer wants a visible "signature" (I just had one request an inscription inside a drawer), I use the laser printer.

The toner is very fragile when it is first printed, but I spray the paper with a light coat of lacquer. Now the paper is moisture resistant and can be worked with.

I cut out the pieces of paper that I glue to the wood... a thin (even diluted) coat of carpenter's glue will hold it flush on the sanded wood.

When the label glue has dried, I then cover it with all the coats of finish that are normally applied to the furniture. With quite a few coats of finish, it is hard to feel the layer of paper. In a test piece that kicked around the shop for a few years, there was no degradation of the label.

Lot of good info Charlie.
Thanks!

[Jake Butler]

Anthony,
If you use a label use parchment paper glued to the wood under the finish.
As for transferring laser ink, I have used clear plastic notebook sleeves that are cut into a single sheet (8.5 x11"). Print a reverse image onto the plastic sleeve. The plastic doesn't let the ink dry. However, you need to let the ink somewhat set up, (I usually let the ink set for a few minutes or until it loses its sheen). Then I use a soft wood "burnisher" to transfer the ink onto the project. It takes some trial and error with ink settings, set up time, etc. but it works really well if done carefully. Be careful with water based finishes- if applied to heavily it will cause the ink to run. I have had the ink fade on "fly boxes" that really get beat up and wet, but I have never had them flake off. I have successfully used this method to sign projects in hidden areas without incident.

Hope this helps,
jb

[Gary Breckenridge]

Get a branding iron that says: Watson Woodworks

[Greg Ware]

Anthony
I have done the same thing that I do on my custom Fly Rods, I print the inscription on Decal paper, usually clear, then spray it with color fixitive, attach to the work piece with a coating of varnish or your choice of finish. I have also used the 2 part epoxy that is used for rod building on pieces that have a stain but no finish, it works great. There are also companies that will make the label for you at a cost of a couple dollars for a couple labels. One that I have used is Decal Connection, I believe you can find them on the web at decalconnection.com. Most RC Hobby Shops carry the decal paper. I to have terrible handwriting so that option has is out for me. I have looked at the "Branding Irons", I am sure they work well, but each fly rod I build requires a different label, that's why I tried the decal. It works great and I can make a custom label for every rod or project. On the fly rods I usually put the customers name on the rod as well which makes it a real custom rod. Try writing on a fly rod the size of a pen or pencil, even with good hand writing it's very difficult, but the decal works well. Good luck, let us know what you end up doing.

gware

[Anthony Watson]

Chris,

you might look into getting a brand made for burning it in, or a stamp to press into the wood.

A brand or stamp wouldn't work for me, as I label each project individually. i.e. "Built By Anthony Watson, Oct 2008". Sometimes I'll add other additional info, like the source of the wood (if I recycled it from something meaningful), or the stain I used (if I need to match up an additional shelf or something in the future). I usually sign the piece in a normally unseen area like the bottom of a bookcase, or the backside of a table apron.

Charlie,

I cut out the pieces of paper that I glue to the wood...

What kind of paper do you print to? I don't want to see a square of paper under the finish, just the writing.

Jake,

If you use a label use parchment paper glued to the wood under the finish.

Parchment paper? You mean the stuff you use for baking in the kitchen? Can you print to that? I thought it had a silicone coating which would prevent the toner and finish from sticking to it. It's meant to be "non-stick" afterall...

I might try the clear sheet/rub on method on a scrap to see how that works.

Then again, I might just use the Sharpie pen idea.

Thanks everyone!

Anthony

[Charlie Plesums]

Charlie,

What kind of paper do you print to? I don't want to see a square of paper under the finish, just the writing.

I use the cheap copy paper - the normal stock in the printer. The paper remains in my technique, and shows, but with the cheap paper, there is minimal thickness - if you look for the thickness, it is there, but to a casual observer, the thickness of the paper is not obvious under multiple coats of finish.

[Jim Finn]

How about deoupage? I do this a lot! Print out whatever you want (inkjet), text or images black and white or color, onto regular gift wrapping tissue paper taped at the edges to printer paper. Use the best setting on your printer. I apply this printed paper to wood that you have already applied one coat of lacquer, I use "Deft" high gloss. Lay the tissue paper on the dry laquered surface and brush in place with lacquer thinned to 50%. Massage any bubbles out with a wet, with water , finger. Allow to dry and repeat about 4-6 times. The tissue virtualy dissapears leaving the apperance of just the ink on the wood. This whole process takes some practice to get just right. Practice a bit. Here is an example:

[Mike Null]

The correct paper to use is hard surface transfer paper. You mirror the image then print. The image/paper is placed on the wood face down and heated. For what you want a standard iron on the wool setting will probably work but you must use 30/40 lbs. of pressure.

Here is the supplier I use. (I have a heat press) The type you need is the CPM.

http://themagictouchusa.com/products/paper/cpm.html


CAUTION

This paper is not for all laser printers. You must check compatibility with MagicTouch or you could end up with a messy jam.

[Aaron Beaver]

These are what I use, had someone make them for me. Just have to use a forstner bit to make the recess then glue them in.