We were told of a product called "Laser Dark" but can't find anything on it.
It is supposed to be a product you wipe on engraved wood to highlight the engraving.
Thanks,
David
We were told of a product called "Laser Dark" but can't find anything on it.
It is supposed to be a product you wipe on engraved wood to highlight the engraving.
Thanks,
David
PLS 3.60, CorelDraw X4, Full Adobe Maser Suite (oh yeah), 3ds Max, 6 Dell 690 Work Stations (and a host of other hardware).
Is this what you are looking for?
http://www.smoke-wood.com/SM-wd-2.HTML
Phil
Red Earth D'Signs
Corel 13, Photoshop CS2, Photograv
Universal Laser v 460 55w
Epson 4800 Sub-Lim
Dyna CNC Plasma/Router Table
Summa Plotters
2 Crazy CBR pups that rule the shop!
Phil,
That looks like nothing more than a bottle of copier/printer toner.
Hi-Tec Designs, LLC -- Owner (and self-proclaimed LED guru )
Trotec 80W Speedy 300 laser w/everything
CAMaster Stinger CNC (25" x 36" x 5")
USCutter 24" LaserPoint Vinyl Cutter
Jet JWBS-18QT-3 18", 3HP bandsaw
Robust Beauty 25"x52" wood lathe w/everything
Jet BD-920W 9"x20" metal lathe
Delta 18-900L 18" drill press
Flame Polisher (ooooh, FIRE!)
Freeware: InkScape, Paint.NET, DoubleCAD XT
Paidware: Wacom Intuos4 (Large), CorelDRAW X5
I've seen this product before. However, I have not used it. Toner works great. You have to be sure the wood is wiped clean and polished like stated from the website or you will have spots of your toner where you don't want it. Also, please note that toner doesn't like to be wet! Make certain your work piece is dry.
It has also been suggested to use black powder paint (e.g., from Harbor Freight). I was unimpressed with the results myself.
Longtai 460 with 100 watt EFR, mostly for fun. More power is good!! And a shop with enough wood working tools to make a lot of sawdust. Ex-owner of Shenhui 460-80 and engraving business with 45 watt Epilog Mini18.
I also tried the black powder coat from HF and was unimpressed as well. I'm too cheap to throw it away but it doesn't seem to be good for anything.
Mike Null
St. Louis Laser, Inc.
Trotec Speedy 300, 80 watt
Gravograph IS400
Woodworking shop CLTT and Laser Sublimation
Dye Sublimation
CorelDraw X5, X7
I have never used the product myself.... but was intrigued.
Phil
Red Earth D'Signs
Corel 13, Photoshop CS2, Photograv
Universal Laser v 460 55w
Epson 4800 Sub-Lim
Dyna CNC Plasma/Router Table
Summa Plotters
2 Crazy CBR pups that rule the shop!
I have used it quite a bit for text and it really works well and is way easier than paint filling. If you tried to fill in large areas then it's definately not the stuff to use, it's too hard to get a nice even coat in areas larger than text. The key to using it is to slow down the speed and lower the power. With my 80ips, 30 watt laser I used 20% power and 70% speed. It took a lot of testing to get to a point where the powder melted instead of just getting vaporized.
Gary
I use toner myself and it doesn't work the way laserdarc claims their product does. According to them, you can "laserbake" their stuff and I just can't get it to work with the toner. I've literrally tried a hundred different settings and I just can't get toner to 'bake"
ULS M-360 35W, Corel X3
I have just brushed toner into the text, there is usually enough oil residue to make the toner stick if you do it right away, there is no need to 'bake' it..
Epilog 24TT(somewhere between 35-45 watts), CorelX4, Photograv(the old one, it works!), HotStamping, Pantograph, Vulcanizer, PolymerPlatemaker, Sandblasting Cabinet, and a 30 year collection of Assorted 'Junque'
Every time you make a typo, the errorists win
I Have to think outside the box.. I don't fit in it anymore
Experience is a wonderful thing.
It enables you to recognize a mistake when you make it again.
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Hi-Tec Designs, LLC -- Owner (and self-proclaimed LED guru )
Trotec 80W Speedy 300 laser w/everything
CAMaster Stinger CNC (25" x 36" x 5")
USCutter 24" LaserPoint Vinyl Cutter
Jet JWBS-18QT-3 18", 3HP bandsaw
Robust Beauty 25"x52" wood lathe w/everything
Jet BD-920W 9"x20" metal lathe
Delta 18-900L 18" drill press
Flame Polisher (ooooh, FIRE!)
Freeware: InkScape, Paint.NET, DoubleCAD XT
Paidware: Wacom Intuos4 (Large), CorelDRAW X5
The problem I have with using toner is that you can't put it on thick enough to cover up the grains on large rastered areas. I would prefer if possible to lay it on thick and bake it in, completely hiding the grain. Right now, I can lay it thick enough to cover the grain, but the static cling from the recognition window boxes pulls it out of the engraving and since the majority of my customers are Navy, I have to ensure it's extremely clean before presented to someone in their whites.
I'd also like to bake in order to used color toner. I've tried yellow, but I just can't get it thick enough to show the color.
ULS M-360 35W, Corel X3
At one time the trade mags were promoting using Johnson's wax on wood items before lasering and paint fill. I have found that toner can be made to adhere better to wood if you spray wax polish over the engraved text after brushing the toner in. As has been mentioned, toner is not suitable for large flat recesses. You need a textured background to hold the toner and look good. Without sealing with wax, if the plaque falls face down, the toner will come out.
I have also used the Lazer Darc product and found it does not behave like the toner. It works better than toner for some things but I have not used it extensively as I only had a sample quantity. The advantage of toner is that it is inexpensive and easily available.
Keep in mind that there are now many variations of toner so trying one toner is not necessarily conclusive.
If you want a rougher texture in your text or graphic to hold toner, this can sometimes be achieved by filling the shape/text with grey instead of black. Then when converted to b/w for lasering you get a more stippled effect instead of a flat-bottomed recess.