Stair Railing Part Build Q

[Brad Shipton]

I am starting a new railing project and completed the mockups last night. All went as planned, except for one part. You will see an elevation of one part of the railing and an enlarged elevation of just the box newel and railing. Below the railing there is a piece of 3/4" QS White Oak that I was planning to cut the square holes as shown. I was hoping to do this on my HCM, but I found the holes were not turning out as good as I liked, and I was getting some blowout on the bottom even with a wood backer below. I am using the high grade chiesels from Lee Valley and I am going to try tweaking my HCM settings tonight. Before skidding the concept or changing to a glueup for this I thought I would ask if anyone has some tips to make these pieces.

Thanks

[Jason Beam]

It's a lot more cutting, but can you go in from both sides? Go half way in, flip the piece over and finish the cut from the other face? That should spare you the blowout.

I was also thinking maybe do 'em as carefully as possible in something like 1/8 or 1/4" thicker and then plane/sand it to final thickness to remove any blemishes. That'd be expensive, tho, as I noticed you're using 3/4" final thickness to begin with.

I'd try the flip method myself, even if it does double your cuts.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

I like Jason cut 1/2 and flip idea especially if you could rig a jig for placing the holes on both sides to insure alignment.

[Brad Shipton]

Ken/Jason: thks for the suggestions. I thought of drilling from both sides, but didnt think of adding a jig for alignment. Some through mortises I have tried in the past have not worked out very well from both sides as the chiesel seems to wander a bit. A little more experimenting I guess.

Brad

[Roger Everett]

Brad:
Just looking at this, looks like about 312 square holes 3/4" x 3/4". If I were to do this, I wouldn't even try using a HCM, as getting the bottom of all without any blowout would be IMHO almost imposible, and cutting in from both sides would be a RPITA and chance of getting off a pinch too great. I would rig up a template sized to allow for a template bushing and use a plunge router with a 1/4" bit and step down in 3 passes to cut thru the 3/4" thickness, while having the stock clamped tight to a scrape pc. of ply for back-up. And make the template to do 4 holes high ( 4 openings in template ) at each set-up. Then clean up rounded inside corners with a corner chisel ( type used to clean up a hinge mortice ) then a little filing. Of course it is going to take some time and putting on some good music, and fighting the boredom.


Roger

[Bill Dunn jr]

Couldn't you make the lattice piece using 3/4" stock with cross laps and mortice and tenons?

[Richard Wolf]

My vote goes with Bill, all work that I have seen done like this has always been built up. Half lap lattice work, I think you will find it faster and also much stronger in the long run.

Richard

[Brad Shipton]

I'll give the router jig a try, but sure sounds like a lot of chisel work. The half lap makes sense, but I sure find working with little 3/4" sq stock a pain and I will need to change my wood order from QS to FS WO as I doubt the QS rays will show very well after butchering the pieces into parts.

By the way, there is a return segment and the stairs too. UGGh, why do I do this to myself?????????

Thanks guys.

[Steve Schoene]

Think about how you will cut the half laps. I'd dado the 3/4" wide by 3/8" deep "notches" into boards that were still 6" or what ever wide, and then rip them into the 3/4" wide strips that can then be assembled into the lattice. Still requires some precise set up, but as doable as cutting box joints.

[Brad Shipton]

I completed the mock up and the half laps work like a charm. It will not be that bad. Lots of time, and fiddly pieces but I think it will be worth it.

Thanks everyone.