It's about that time - Shop heating questions

[Randy Klein]

So, cold weather is approaching Ohio and last year's experience w/o a heater made winter shop time minimal. I've read all past threads on this topic and still have some questions.

My shop is an attached, 2-car garage. I know there's no insulation over the ceiling, but I'm not sure about the walls, but I doubt it. The garage door seems to be insulated. And there's a large single pane window as well. So any heat produced won't stay there long, I know that.

Insulating is always a popular recommendation. But I'll be moving in less than a year, so I don't think it's worth it for one season. Maybe I'm wrong?

I only have 110v service to the garage. So 220v heaters are out. Again, upgrading to 220v for only 1 season is not worth it. The 110v heaters I've toyed with do nothing.

So I'm left with a fuel based heater options. I already have a 20lb LP cylinder for my grill, so I'm looking at propane heaters that can use this. Here's my options in order of increasing price.

• There's the radiant heaters that bolt directly unto the tank, but they all are marked outdoors only. Specifically the Mr. Heater line.

• So, does anyone use the bolt-on type in a garage? Is that "outdoors" enough? I assume it's not approved for indoor use due to the lack of oxygen sensor.

• Another Mr. Heater, the Big Buddy. This is approved for indoor use with a self-contained 1lb cylinder, but you can attach a 20lb tank via a gas line. However, they insist that a 20lb cylinder should not be brought indoors.

• Why can't a 20lb cylinder be brought indoors? Is it for fear of a gas leak? Is a garage considered indoors?

• And another Mr. Heater vent-free indoor approved radiant heater. I can get this with more BTU's than the Big Buddy, which I may need given my uninsulation. This has to attach via a gas line, and the same precaution about a 20lb cylinder indoors is given.

• Does anyone know what makes this vent-free?

And of course, I will install a CO monitor with any of these, just in case.

Thanks in advance for any answers or advice.

[Fred Hargis]

Just a caution based on my personal experience with unvented heaters. they generate a fair amount of moisture, and I had installed a wall mounted unit that I ran for 2 days. It was sheer coincidence that I happened to look in the garage attic and found the roof decking soaking wet where the moisture had condensed. My garage attic is insulated, but has no vapor barrier. I immediately shut the heater off, and eventually took it to Goodwill. As for the gas bottle inside, my insurance agent tells me it's a no-no, will void any fire claims made on my policy. I typically don't listen to insurance agents, but I notice all commercial establishments that fill them has warnings against bringing the cylinders inside.

[Randy Klein]

Just a caution based on my personal experience with unvented heaters. they generate a fair amount of moisture,

I've read many accounts like that. But I only plan on running it while I'm out there. And when I'm done, I was planning on opening the garage door to dissipate moisture. You think that'll work?

[Chris Gombola]

I got this advice from another forum: kerosene torpedo heater. I just bought one and it does well for me (I'm just outside columbus). I crack the garage door a bit and let it run for a while, 60k BTU heats the shop (2 car garage, no insulation) in about 10 minutes. I can work comfortably for another 20-30 on that heat, then I fire it up again. I'm sure I'll have to let it run longer in the colder months but it works well and won't leave a lot of moisture like the propane models. There is plenty of airflow in the garage anyway so I'm not really worried.

So, cold weather is approaching Ohio and last year's experience w/o a heater made winter shop time minimal. I've read all past threads on this topic and still have some questions.

My shop is an attached, 2-car garage. I know there's no insulation over the ceiling, but I'm not sure about the walls, but I doubt it. The garage door seems to be insulated. And there's a large single pane window as well. So any heat produced won't stay there long, I know that.

Insulating is always a popular recommendation. But I'll be moving in less than a year, so I don't think it's worth it for one season. Maybe I'm wrong?

I only have 110v service to the garage. So 220v heaters are out. Again, upgrading to 220v for only 1 season is not worth it. The 110v heaters I've toyed with do nothing.

So I'm left with a fuel based heater options. I already have a 20lb LP cylinder for my grill, so I'm looking at propane heaters that can use this. Here's my options in order of increasing price.

• There's the radiant heaters that bolt directly unto the tank, but they all are marked outdoors only. Specifically the Mr. Heater line.

• So, does anyone use the bolt-on type in a garage? Is that "outdoors" enough? I assume it's not approved for indoor use due to the lack of oxygen sensor.

• Another Mr. Heater, the Big Buddy. This is approved for indoor use with a self-contained 1lb cylinder, but you can attach a 20lb tank via a gas line. However, they insist that a 20lb cylinder should not be brought indoors.

• Why can't a 20lb cylinder be brought indoors? Is it for fear of a gas leak? Is a garage considered indoors?

• And another Mr. Heater vent-free indoor approved radiant heater. I can get this with more BTU's than the Big Buddy, which I may need given my uninsulation. This has to attach via a gas line, and the same precaution about a 20lb cylinder indoors is given.

• Does anyone know what makes this vent-free?

And of course, I will install a CO monitor with any of these, just in case.

Thanks in advance for any answers or advice.

[Tom Esh]

I'd agree, a single season wouldn't be worth much investment. If your garage is attached, the cheapest and fastest way to heat it up is to simply open the door to the house. A 110v heater may be enough to maintain temp once that's done. Then (if you haven't already been yelled at for cooling the house down) close the door.

[Craig D Peltier]

I'd agree, a single season wouldn't be worth much investment. If your garage is attached, the cheapest and fastest way to heat it up is to simply open the door to the house. A 110v heater may be enough to maintain temp once that's done. Then (if you haven't already been yelled at for cooling the house down) close the door.

I open my door in house and it helps but not enough to keep you warm.Cement floors are cold.
You could also duct in heat from the house maybe, just temporary when you need it? Using a dryer hose.
Mines 3 car I use a 220volt one it takes maybe 1 hour to heat up to 65. I want something that gets the ehat up quick and then use electric to maintain it. I havent bought one yet. I never heard of the moisture in the attic sheetrock before but thats interesting and scary.

[Ross Ellis]

I have one of the Mr.Heaters. I only use it when a machine breaks down and its super cold out. I don't try and wouldn't try heating a whole area with it. I just put mine near me so I can stand near it time to time to warm up enough to work a while longer. I guess what I am trying to say is that it sucks, but is better than nothing when a machine breaks down and its frigid. It goes thru a propane tank quickly.

Torpedo heaters work much much better and the kero costs much less.

[Ed Breen]

Some time ago I lived in Peoria, Il. Used a detached garage as a shop. Bought a "top Hat" heater. They are used in peach groves to prevent frost. It burned #2 oil. It created plenty of heat, btus in the thousands. Believe it is still sitting in my barn today.
Ed

[Rod Sheridan]

Randy, burning any hydro-carbon fuel in a direct fired heater is going to release enormous quantities of water vapour into your garage, then your garage is going to rot, and your tools are going to rust.

As others have stated, open the door to the house, use a fan to blow the air into the garage, or if you have your laundry room nearby, make an extension cord so you can plug one of those 4.8Kw heaters in while you're in the garage.

I use a 4.8Kw heater in my garage in Toronto, works great.

Regards, Rod.

[Chris Schumann]

Be sure to talk to your insurance agent, especially since your garage is attached. Running a 220V extension cord from your dryer outlet doesn't seem like a big price to pay to ensure your dwelling and contents are covered in case of a fire.

[David G Baker]

You can nail some temporary 1" rigid foam board on the ceiling of your garage and you will cut down heat loss quite a bit. There some 110 volt heaters on the market today that are quite efficient, do some Google searches and you will find plenty. I would not use a propane portable or non-vented heater if moisture is going to be a problem.

[Fred Hargis]

I suspect it would.....watch your machines for condensation as well.

[Sean Rainaldi]

All the electric 120v heaters I have seen in either home depot or Lowes or Menards, are all 1,500 watts max, and these will only heat up an area of about 150 square feet max.

Two car garages are usually between 400 - 450 squre feet. I know you want propane, but if you change your mind and you don't want to wire for 220, I would reccomend three 120 volt, 1,500 watt heaters. Hopefully you have two or three extra 120 volt breakers in your garage service panel in addition to breakers for your tools for the heaters. I think Three 120v 1500 watt heaters would keep your garage warm, two would be borderline.

If you had 220, you could get by quite well with a 4,000 watt heater.

[Jim Becker]

I've been heating in my shop with three ceiling mounted Marvin electric radiant heaters for a few years now. Since they warm "you" and objects, they are pretty comfortable to use. They also run on 120v.

[David G Baker]

With your shop set-up being temporary you can get a 1500 watt 120 volt heater with a fan and heat the area you are working in instead of trying to heat the whole shop. Did it for years when I couldn't afford anything else. I have heated my smaller shops with a couple 150 watt flood lights when I had foam on the ceiling and most of the air leaks plugged. I had to wear a jacket but I was comfortable. Insulation is the key to low budget heating.