No matter what name a saw has, there are really only a few specifics that determine which saw you might use.

1) teeth, possibly the most important, IMO. these are either rip or crosscut for the most part, although saw makers tend to vary the amount of rake, fleam, and points for a given saw plate. There is plenty of information online to understand all about teeth.

2) depth, how much depth do you need for your cut? What type of stock do you normally work? Larger stock will require the ability to cut deeper, as much of joinery is a combination of the stock to be joined. This is not so much a problem with saws that do not have a back on them, but most saws used for joinery have backs on them, although not all. They will be limited to the depth of cut they are capable of.

3) length, how long a blade do you want on the saw. Some sizes have been common over the past, but no 2 people work alike. Some folks like shorter saws as they claim they are easier to control, and others like longer saws as they say it gives them more cutting power per stroke. I have come to the conclusion that if a saw is difficult to control it was possibly designed wrong, and I tend to prefer longer saws. But pick the saws that you like, not ones that someone else likes.

Most importantly, acquire the types of saws that you will use. Figure out what type of stock you will be using, and whether you will be cutting across or with the grain, and use the proper saw for that task. There is very little joinery that you can use but one saw on, much of it requires both rip and crosscut teeth. Use the proper saw for the task. If you use a rip tooth to cut across the grain, you will learn quickly that it tears the ends of the grain and makes them fluffy. If you insist on using a rip toothed saw to cut across the grain, in most cases you will be using a hand plane if you would like to have a good, tight fit. Torn/fluffy ends tend to compress over time, allowing the joint to loosen up, in my experience. This is why I suggest using a proper saw.

All woodworkers tend to work a bit differently, so if you take advice from someone, please tailor it to your needs specific. Just because someone has and uses a specific set of saws doesn't mean those saws will work for you.

I rarely use a full size handsaw, for instance. I dimension most all of my material with machines. So, there is little use for a full size handsaw in my shop. I only have a single full size handsaw, it's an old Craftsman from the 50s most likely. If I was to take advice from someone that keeps full size hand saws in their quiver, and go buy them, I will not use them. Again, use the saws that fit the task at hand.

Lastly, handsaws are not rocket science, you can improvise and use ones that are not specific to the task at hand, just like any other tool such as a chisel or hand plane. There is no need to pontificate and buy a bunch of saws that you will most likely not use. It seems a common mis-belief that if you own the same saws as someone else, you will be able to produce the same type of projects. I think this has little to do with it, but if you believe that, I have a bridge to sell you. And remember that any given saw can be refiled to posses the type of teeth you want. If you have a rip saw, it can be filed crosscut and vice versa...so even if you do make a mistake, you can always change it with a little time and a file (you do file your own handsaws, don't you? ). Happy sawing!