Snipe problem with Jet/Performax 16-32 Plus Drum Sander

[Philip Florio]

All of the sudden today I started to get snipe on the leading edge of my work pieces. I went to page 19 as it indicates in the manual to correct the tension rollers only to find that it partially didn't make sense. Calling Jet the Tech acknowledge it wasn't written correctly.

Anyway I'm now stuck with snipe on both ends and jet is now closed for the day. I first adjusted the outfeed tension roller by turning the screws counter clockwise. This didn't help so I moved the screws to the originally position and followed to loosen all the nut to drop both rollers and to bring the drum to the base and bring it back 3/4 of a turn, that didn't help either. Went back again and this time increased the tension on the rollers, this seems to have corrected it a little but still not enough. I'll wait till the morning and call again.

Has anyone had issues with snipe on the 16-32?

Phil

[Randal Stevenson]

Do they have a corrected manual on their website?

Sorry, no real assistance.

[frank shic]

do you have adequate infeed and outfeed support? don't give up on the little guy yet - i've gotten the flattest doors ever thanks to it!

[Roger Ronas]

Care to elaborate how it should read so if anyone else has the same problem.
Thanks,
Roger

All of the sudden today I started to get snipe on the leading edge of my work pieces. I went to page 19 as it indicates in the manual to correct the tension rollers only to find that it partially didn't make sense. Calling Jet the Tech acknowledge it wasn't written correctly.

Anyway I'm now stuck with snipe on both ends and jet is now closed for the day. I first adjusted the outfeed tension roller by turning the screws counter clockwise. This didn't help so I moved the screws to the originally position and followed to loosen all the nut to drop both rollers and to bring the drum to the base and bring it back 3/4 of a turn, that didn't help either. Went back again and this time increased the tension on the rollers, this seems to have corrected it a little but still not enough. I'll wait till the morning and call again.

Has anyone had issues with snipe on the 16-32?

Phil

[Philip Florio]

When I call tomorrow, I'll ask if there's an updated manual.

I have the infeed, outfeed tables but the pieces are only 15" long so the tables aren't a factor.

Phil

[Dewey Torres]

All of the sudden today I started to get snipe on the leading edge of my work pieces. I went to page 19 as it indicates in the manual to correct the tension rollers only to find that it partially didn't make sense. Calling Jet the Tech acknowledge it wasn't written correctly.

Anyway I'm now stuck with snipe on both ends and jet is now closed for the day. I first adjusted the outfeed tension roller by turning the screws counter clockwise. This didn't help so I moved the screws to the originally position and followed to loosen all the nut to drop both rollers and to bring the drum to the base and bring it back 3/4 of a turn, that didn't help either. Went back again and this time increased the tension on the rollers, this seems to have corrected it a little but still not enough. I'll wait till the morning and call again.

Has anyone had issues with snipe on the 16-32?

Phil

I reviewed the manual and it says that if you have snipe at both ends to tighten all four hex nuts in figure 29. It does seem odd that it just started happening out of the blue. Also it says tighten the HEX NUTS but the roller tension brackets has Phillips head screws the HEX NUTS they refer to are (I am guessing on the bearing bolts).

[Mark Valsi]

Phil,

I just noticed about a month ago, that I have started having the same problem with my Jet.

I had not got around to posting about it, glad you did. I'll consult the manual soon and see if I can correct the problem. My lastl couple projects I have cut the pieces oversize, the chopped off the edges to get flat boards, but it sucks doing that !!!

Keep us informed please.


Mark

[Philip Florio]

After spending two days trying to fix this snipe problem I've become disgusted with Jet.

I spoke to someone today who as I understand came from the Performax Co. The last thing he told me to do was release some tension on the spring screws for the outfeed roller. He suggested turning up to 1 1/4 turns.

Long story short, I'm up to 2 1/4 turns and still I have snipe. I called back at 12, got a kind of cold call back at 2:30, called again at 3:30 and never received a call back.

I'll go to Woodcraft tomorrow and see if I can get some help there.

I'm not happy at all with Jet as noted above. The first guy I spoke to yesterday wasn't too helpful, the first guy I spoke to this morning didn't know anything and just coughed right into the phone over and over.

Phil

[Charlie Plesums]

I had problems when I got my Performax, but I got in the habit of pushing down on the feed belt... on the infeed side at the beginning of the pass, and on the outfeed side at the end of the pass, along with the other hand providing in/out support, and the snipe problem went away. It appears the hold-down rollers are not adequate to support a board, or even a slight uneven-ness of the in/out supports. But I don't have infeed supports so my manual process works fine.

[Doug Shepard]

I had problems when I got my Performax, but I got in the habit of pushing down on the feed belt... on the infeed side at the beginning of the pass, and on the outfeed side at the end of the pass, along with the other hand providing in/out support, and the snipe problem went away. It appears the hold-down rollers are not adequate to support a board, or even a slight uneven-ness of the in/out supports. But I don't have infeed supports so my manual process works fine.

I do have the extra I/O tables and still do the same process due to waviness in the feed belt. No snipe.

[Joe Von Kaenel]

Philip,

I agree with Charlie hold down the board as you feed it gets under the drum and as it comes out the other side. I had a similar problem with my Woodmaster Planer/Sander. I automatically hold the board down as stated above with my Jet 16-32. Please, let us know if you come up with a solution.

Joe

[Philip Florio]

I wish I could report back that this issue has been resolved. I went to Woodcraft today but they had no clue. When I call back to Jet and leave a message with the same tech, if he decides to call back it's hours later. He never returned my call from yesterday afternoon and when I called again this morning he called hours later. I then called back and he didn't call back again.

Typically I do press down on the piece when it goes in and comes out.

This forum is my only hope to resolve this.

Thanks,
Phil

[Stan Urbas]

Guys, I started out with the Performax 16-32 years ago and didn't see the snipe on my pieces until after the sealer was on and I caught it just right in the light. But it was there. I never got rid of it. Much later I got a Woodmaster, but had the same problem. I now use a scrap lead piece ahead of and right after both planing and sanding. Doesn't have to be exactly the same thickness as the work piece, just not any thicker (for sanding). If I have multiple pieces to plane or sand I start with the scrap, run through all my work pieces, finish with the scrap. As I run them through they are butt up against one another. And that seems to work pretty well. The scrap piece can be whatever I have around, even plywood.

The problem is that the first roller holds the work down but it lifts ever so slightly under the sanding head until it engages the second roller, which pushes it down slightly further. Compounding the problem, most of the time there is a very slight pause as the second roller engages, and that momentary slowdown worsens the snipe.

Hope this helps.

[Philip Florio]

Stan,

Thanks, I'll try that. So I guess I'll keep a collection a different width pieces next to the sander. So the thickness has to be at least enough to engage the rollers?

I'm going to print out your suggestion and read it to Jet {if they call back}.

I'll try this method and report back.

Thanks,
Phil

[Stan Urbas]

Phil, the width of the piece doesn't seem to make too much difference, just the thickness. And it can be a 16th thinner than your work piece and it should not matter. The only reason for not being thicker is that sanding off too much of the scrap could cause it to burn and gunk up your sand paper.