After seeing Alan's beautiful bronze backed saw, I wondered if it might be possible for me to make a saw without any specialized tools. I really need a longer (16" or so) tenon saw for sawing wider tenon cheeks but I'm in no position to buy a premium saw like one of Mike W's beauties right now and vintage tenon saws in the 16-19" range don't exactly grow on trees. I thought it might be possible for me to make one but having never made a saw before and not wanting to spend $85 on a piece of brass for one just to screw it up, I had to think outside the box, or inside the big box store so to speak . Before I go ahead and order any materials for a longer saw I thought I would try my hand at making a smaller one to see if my plan would work.
So I went over to the big blue box store to see what they had available to use for making a saw. Spring steel for the saw plate isn't a problem as the blued drywall taping knives are the same steel as saws and in the case of a dovetail saw, the right thickness (0.020"). The real problem was going to be the back. I thought about just getting a long piece of flat mild steel bar from the isle where they have the sheet metal, steel and aluminum bar stock. I could then use the lamination method with some brass pins peened over perhaps to hold everything together (I still may need to, more on this in a minute). Then I spied something interesting. I always knew that they had 90 degree angle with the flat steel and steel rods but I never noticed the style of the 14 ga. steel angle before. It's not your typical angle cast/extruded through a die that has the sharp, extremely thick outside corner. The 14 ga. stuff looks like it was simply bent in a brake from flat stock into a 90 degree angle. The light went on and I thought I might be able to make a folded back without any special tools (like a brake) afterall using this 14 ga. angle stock as a starting point. So off I went with a 10" taping knife and a 3' piece of 3/4" x 3/4" 14 ga. steel angle.
A little work with a 3 lb. drilling hammer on the anvil of my machinist vise got me to something resembling a folded steel back. Some work with a file to score and snap the spring steel to rough size, some file work to clean it up and tap-tap-tap the saw plate into the back and I had myself a dovetail saw blank. Handle was an easy job using the Grammercy saw kit handle pattern available on Joel's web site. A $20 order to McMaster Carr for some brass threaded rod and 1/2" brass round rod stock to make some split nuts using Leif Hanson's "Poor Boy Split Nut" method and I had me a saw. So here's the final result.
Saw1.jpg
Saw2.jpg
Final specs: 9" blade length, 17 PPI rip, 5 degrees of rake, bubinga handle finished with 3 coats of linseed oil and wax, and brass "Poor Boy Split Nuts". I used Mike's Kenyon dovetail saw and the Grammercy dovetail saw as models and made some minor modifications/personalizations. The test cut made me a believer. It cuts much more effeciently than my current dovetail saw which is 19 PPI rip with 8 degrees of rake, but the cut was still very clean. Overall I am very satisfied but there are a few things that need to be worked out before I move on to a longer saw.
First, it became obvious when hammering the steel angle to close the folded back that one needs to take this very slowly to avoid twisting and bending the back. You cannot just start bashing away and expect it not to twist on you. I had to straighten my back some so I will be more careful next time. I still may need to laminate a longer saw back as opposed to folding it as it seems that the longer the piece of steel, the more tendency it has to twist when hammering it closed. But for $7 I'll take a chance. If it doesn't work I'm only out $7.
I also tried to countersink the saw bolt and peen the threaded rod down into the countersink rather than using glue to attach the threaded rod to the bolt head. I don't have a silver soldering setup or I would have done that. Peening worked ok but I think I cut the initial bolt head blank too thick and then had to file too much away later to make it flush to the handle so the threaded rod is a little loose in the bolt heads and there is a small gap where it is very obvious that the bolt is two pieces. I'll make the bolt head blanks thinner next time so there is less filing in the end and this should help this problem. I think I'll add a little red thread locker as well for a little extra hold. The one thing that did work well was using a lock washer under the bolt head rather than trying to form a square shank and mortise to keep the bolt from spinning as you tighten the split nut. I stole this idea from the Grammercy saw as well.
All in all I am really glad that I tried this and am confident that I can make a longer saw with a little patience. I'll need to order a longer and thicker piece of spring steel for that but for around $25 you get enough for at least 3 saws. I also think I'll stick with the steel backs. I like the traditional folded back and steel was a traditional back material. Plus, the cheapest piece of alloy 260 brass I found was $85. Two 3' pieces of steel angle are $14 and can do 4 saws.
I really urge anyone on the fence about trying something like this to just try it. It really was not as difficult as I thought it was going to be and you really don't need any specialized tools that you probably don't already have as a woodworker. It was a really fun project.
Bob