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Thread: 1/2" or 3/4" pipe clamps?

  1. #1
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    1/2" or 3/4" pipe clamps?

    I was just wondering what everyone thought about the differences in using 1/2" pipe clamps over the 3/4" size. Does one have an advantage over the other? I'd like to get a few more, but am not sure which size to get. Any thoughts would be appreciated.

    Thanks.

    Brian
    It’s only work if somebody makes you do it.
    A day can really slip by when you're deliberately avoiding what you're supposed to do.
    Duct tape is like the force. It has a light side, a dark side and it binds the universe together.

  2. #2
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    3/4" are the "defacto standard" when it comes to pipe clamps. Many more choices there, too, including some with "feet".
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  3. #3
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    I have all 1/2" and am very disappointed. I need to get all 3/4" - the 1/2" just do not have the pressure as almost all of the pipes are slightly bent.

  4. #4
    I have all 1/2". If you have bent your 1/2" pipes you are doing something wrong. You should not need that much pressure to clamp something. 3/4" pipe is sturdier. And more expensive along with the heads being more price too.

  5. #5
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    You might be interested in this thread from about a month ago.
    Tom Veatch
    Wichita, KS
    USA

  6. #6
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    3/4" pipe is the only way to go. I had some 1/2" pipe clamp when I first put togeather a woodshop yrs. ago, I soon found out they just wern't heavy enough to do the things I needed to do. I sold them in the classified ad in my local newpaper just to get rid of them. If I were purchasing clamps in the 3/4" arena today I think I would look hard at the Rockler clamps. I really like the built in feet the designed in their clamps.

  7. #7
    What are you guys doing that requires the force that will bend 1/2" pipe? If you make you joints correctly you should be able to glue things together with bungee cords for pressure. I realize the 3/4" clamps have a little more reach, but usually it is not enough to make a difference. Tell me some of these projects that require you to have to have 1 3/4" pipe clamp. Just curious because I have been working wood for 20 years now and I never owned a 3/4" pipe clamp.

  8. #8
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    My Dad and Grandfather both used 1/2" pipe clamps quite a bit. I don't own any but thats more to do with my needs than their faults. It should be obvious that 3/4" clamps will apply more pressure, and that 1/2" clamps will bow before 3/4" when equal pressure is applied. Stronger pipe, stronger clamp. Question is how much force do you need to do the work you do?

    I like to use the lightest clamp I can for a given task and along that line of thinking I have several different weight classes in my shop. I don't like to carry more weight than I need to or apply more force than is necessary, nor do I like to stress under powered clamps to the breaking point. Right tool for each job. I think 1/2" would be good for cabinet doors, some case work, and a host of other jobs. For gluing up large tops, counters, laminated beams or such I think 1/2" would be a bit light.

    I guess if you had limited budget for clamps the theory would be to get the strongest variety you could and use them with discretion on lighter work, as the lighter clamps can't really deliver the performance you need for the heavier glue ups. If you have limited space and budget it might be wise to go 3/4" first to have that capacity if needed. Ideally I like a mix of clamps from light to heavy duty, and 1/2" pipe clamps may fill a need in such a mix.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Leo Graywacz View Post
    What are you guys doing that requires the force that will bend 1/2" pipe? If you make you joints correctly you should be able to glue things together with bungee cords for pressure. I realize the 3/4" clamps have a little more reach, but usually it is not enough to make a difference. Tell me some of these projects that require you to have to have 1 3/4" pipe clamp. Just curious because I have been working wood for 20 years now and I never owned a 3/4" pipe clamp.

    I don't think I have ever thought of using a bungee cord for anything in the shop...LOL I found out early that I needed a stout clamp when I was gluing up a large tabletop. I have found with wider glue-ups the clamps tend to shift when appling pressure to the glue up. PLus I like the design and the bigger handles on the 3/4" clamps.

  10. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by Denny Rice View Post
    I don't think I have ever thought of using a bungee cord for anything in the shop...LOL I found out early that I needed a stout clamp when I was gluing up a large tabletop. I have found with wider glue-ups the clamps tend to shift when appling pressure to the glue up. PLus I like the design and the bigger handles on the 3/4" clamps.

    When I was working in a shop that specialized speaker box building shop we used bungees for gluing up lots of odd shaped things. We would have a jig built that was the shape of the speaker box and then use the bungees to clamp it down. non of these boxes had 90* angles. We used a special glue, thick as all get out. The bungees made it very quick to put things together. If the joint is good, little pressure is required.

  11. #11
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    I've never needed more than 1/2" and never had a reason to apply so much pressure as to make pipe flex an issue. Using enough clamps to properly distribute the force over the joint is far more important.
    - Tom

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Leo Graywacz View Post
    What are you guys doing that requires the force that will bend 1/2" pipe? If you make you joints correctly you should be able to glue things together with bungee cords for pressure. I realize the 3/4" clamps have a little more reach, but usually it is not enough to make a difference. Tell me some of these projects that require you to have to have 1 3/4" pipe clamp. Just curious because I have been working wood for 20 years now and I never owned a 3/4" pipe clamp.
    The glue manufacturers and various woodworking "experts" tend to indicate that clamping pressure is important to the best glue bond for structural joinery. That said, I've often used blue painter's tape to "clamp" some types of things that are more decorative in nature...a similar situation to your bungee cord example.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  13. #13
    They suggest you get a glueline that is about 2-3 thousandths of an inch across. If you have flat and true joinery it shouldn't be a problem. If you have 2 boards you are gluing up and when you put them together and there is a 1/4" gap between them, then you have a problem.

  14. #14
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    What amazes me is.....

    everyone here that uses 1/2" pipe clamps does not say what they make.
    The size of the clamps are determined by what you normally use them for. If you do 'small' work then 1/2" is all you will normally need.
    I use both sizes and I build furniture. On a long dresser or cabinet, the 1/2" clamp will definitely bow and that will change the clamping pressure angle. For pieces glued up under 3' I will use the 1/2" clamp.
    Last edited by Tony Bilello; 11-13-2008 at 9:48 AM.
    Retired, living and cruising full-time on my boat.
    Currently on the Little Tennessee River near Knoxville

  15. #15
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    I am not saying that clamping with 1/2" pipe clamps isn't enough pressure to make a stronger than wood bond. However, the glue manufacturers and independent testers have shown that there are specific PSI ratings that give the strongest bond, and those PSI ratings are significantly higher than most peope realize. The old maxim of starving the joint is, based on what I have read, and in my humble opinion, and at the least using PVA glue, an old wives tale. Therefore, despite admonitions that you shouldn't over clamp your wood - there is no harm to doing so and in fact you are making a stronger joint than those who don't clamp as hard.

    Whether that stronger joint is necessary or not is a valid argument of course.

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