Boeshield rust free

[Justin Leiwig]

Ok...so after hearing amazing reviews of this stuff I went down to woodcraft and picked some up since I had a $10 gift card and a new to me tablesaw to play with.

I started like this after disassembling the tablesaw into components

[Justin Leiwig]

Well the rust free stuff really didn't do squat for me except stink me out! It is some of the most foul smelling stuff I've ever encountered.

I ended up sanding the top down with some 180, 220, and 400 grit papers. After sanding I sprayed the rust free again following the directions and letting it soak for a minute I wiped it off. It left all the stains that were there that I couldn't get out with sanding! I followed the directions again and used a scotch-brite pad along with the rust free and still nothing. So I cleaned all the rust free off and applied the t-9, followed by a couple coats of paste wax.

Here are the results:

[Justin Leiwig]

Moral of the story:

Rust-Free...not so good

Hopefully the t-9 works as advertised. The top is slicker than snot after the sanding and t-9/wax combo, so that's good. I need my new blade, the pals system to help align everything, and to spruce up the fence system and put it back on and then she's ready to cut wood.

[Andy Casiello]

Well, congrats on the new saw anyway! What is it? Looks like a Delta. I use the T-9 and that seems to work great. Never tried the other stuff and now I won't have to.

[Matt Benton]

Justin,

I did the same thing you did the first time.

If you use a powered sander like a ros, I'd use the T-9 or WD40...

[Peter Quinn]

I have a bottle of that rust free that came in a kit, my assesment is the same as yours. It is junk and it has the sulfur stink of 100 rotten eggs. The blade and bit pitch remover, however, is very good and worth using. The T-9 works as advertised, but is a bit spendy for my tastes and does little more than paste wax. That old HSS blade is a scary sight, thank god for carbide. Nice saw there.

[Justin Leiwig]

That old HSS blade is a scary sight, thank god for carbide. Nice saw there.

You know...I was surprised that when I tested the saw at the previous owners house, that blade cut like butter and had a smooth cut. Not sure if it has to do with the saw or the blade, but compared to my old plastic crapsman, it's a nice saw.

It is a delta. I still have to put the extension wings on it and put the fence on it, but I think that will have to wait after the holidays.

I'm holding out hopes that woodcraft or rockler will have a good deal on a sawblade during the holidays.

[Ben Martin]

Agreed, that Rust Free stuff smells terrible...

BUT, I tried the Rust Free on my jointer top after going at it a Scotch Brite on my orbital and it did leave a haxy look on the surface. But, after I applied the Boeshield that all went away. I just wish I would have put the Boeshield on so think, that stuff is very gummy...

[Andy Pratt]

I had a totally different experience with the rust free. The first few months of owning my tablesaw I couldn't keep the rust spots off it. Sweat, touching skin, anything made it rust, even with a few coats of paste wax on it. Broke down and bought the kit you bought. I had a pretty big rust stain that kept rusting easily ever since my neighbor leaned his sweaty arms on it before I was away for a week. I sprayed on the rust remover, spread it around with a scotch-brite pad and it got rid of all the marks. I wasn't dealing with heavy rust, but I think it worked a miracle in getting rid of the rust-prone stains. Used it again recently on my new j/p and it did a great job getting a light coating of rust off (light browning, no pitting or red). Maybe it's better on the stains/light rust than on the heavier stuff like you had to deal with. I will say the spray spout stopped functioning properly in the year of storage since then, now it's a pain to use and gets on my hands, should have made a better bottle.

I'm sold on the T-9, I put one coat on a year ago and literally hadn't had a rust spot (near daily TS use) until about a week ago. Redid it again this weekend and hope to get the same durability.

Hope this was helpful,
Andy

[Tom Henderson2]

I've had good experience with Rust-Free as well.

I've found that you need to spray it on, immediately start working it with an abrasive pad, and -- most important -- IMMEDIATELY wipe it off. If it sits for more than a few moments, the rust seems to be redeposited on the surface.

I used it on my Dad's old 1960's vintage saw top. Worked in small sections using an abrasive pad on a small sander. Wiped up immediately with a clean rag. Worked great.

It took care of the surface rust, and also most of the stains. The top is now a uniform grey instead of grey with rust stains.

It does smell. But my experience is that it does a good job of rust removal.

-TH

[scott spencer]

The Rust Free is phosphoric acid. It smells bad and irritates your skin but works fairly well on loosening rust IME. The rust still needs physical removal but the phosphoric acid should make the task easier...you may have found yourself doing a lot more sanding had you not used it.

The T-9 was top rated in Wood Mag's experiment. I like to give it a light spray, wipe it down, let it dry, and buff it out, then add a coat or two of paste wax.

[Russ Filtz]

T-9 is basically paraffin wax in a thinning carrier spray. So yes, it will get gummy if sprayed on thick! Still the best to use thick for storage coats though. For regular use, spray on and wipe down.