are the any finishes that are "water clear"?

[Jeffrey Fusaro]

seems like all of the finishes that i am currently using have an amber/honey color - antique oils, polyurethanes, lacquers, etc..

is there such a thing as a "water clear" finish?

i am looking for something to use on lighter woods that will not change the natural wood color?

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Jeffrey,

I think Deft brushing lacquer is as close to "clear" as I have used on my turnings. I friction it on.

[Steve Schlumpf]

Jeffrey - I believe the water-based poly finishes are supposed to dry clear. I have used some in the past on 'non-turning' type of woodwork and it worked quite well. Course, you would have to sand things as the water will raise the grain.

[Jim Becker]

Water borne finishes are generally about as white/clear as you can get. NC Lacquer is also close if you have the ability to use it safely. Anything will oil in it will have a distinct amber hue of variable intensity, depending on the type of oil used in the formula with soya oils being the lightest commonly used for finishes. (Pratt and Lambert #38 is an example)

(If you are going to buff, I suggest you stay away from anything containing polyurethane resins as the chief benefit of poly is abrasion resistance...and buffing is abrasion. Poly is for floors...)

[Norm Zax]

The trick is to look for Acrylic based finishes. The yellowing is usually a result of the oxidation of the binder (the glue part in the paint) and due to the binder's initial yellowish hue. Acrylics are clear. Water based acrylic may be even better than solvent based acrylic, though this should not be the case as both water and solvent become virtually non-existent in a week or so.
The darkenning resulting from the wet look is the minimal color change you can expect. Im unfamiliar with a finish that gives less than that. Maybe a matte acrylic.

[Scott Lux]

I tried the spray-on Minwax Polycrylic and had mixed results. The color was clear and the protection seemed good, but I couldn't get it to level out the way I wanted. The results were adequate for the project, but not consistent. Please understand I'm certain it was user error. I think I need to re-re-read their instructions and actually follow them this time. On the stoppers that came out really well, they looked wet. It was spectacular.

Lux

[Dan Oliphant]

Jeffery, I have been using "Valspar Luster Lac Premium" water white lacquer, 550 VOC, 90 sheen, nac1119. This lacquer is indeed water white and stays that way. Note that it is a spray lacquer only.
The pieces will not yellow, or change in any way long after spraying.
I am of the understanding that Valspar is a subsidiary of Sherwin Williams.

[Jeff Nicol]

The water based poly finishes need to have the grain raised and sanded with a little water or a water based sanding sealer. Once the sealer or first coat of finish is dry sand back the raised grain and the second coat should level out better. They dry very fast so no back brushing or you will leave smears and such. Do a little testing on some different wood types to see which process works best for each. I agree with all on the fact that it stays very clear and almost no change to color of the wood.

Jeff

[Jeffrey Fusaro]

Jeffery, I have been using "Valspar Luster Lac Premium" water white lacquer, 550 VOC, 90 sheen, nac1119. This lacquer is indeed water white and stays that way. Note that it is a spray lacquer only.
The pieces will not yellow, or change in any way long after spraying.
I am of the understanding that Valspar is a subsidiary of Sherwin Williams.

dan--

sounds interesting.

is this available in an aerosol spray can?

or do i need my own spray equipment?

[Jeffrey Fusaro]

dan--

sounds interesting.

is this available in an aerosol spray can?

or do i need my own spray equipment?

never mind...

i found it on my own. it's not an aerosol.

should have looked before i asked.

thanks for the tip, though.

[Wally Wenzel]

Watco rattle can laquer is as clear as i have ever seen. Wally

[Mick Zelaska]

Timely thread. I just turned a chess set using African blackwood for the dark pieces and zebrawood for the lighter contrasting pieces. Unfinished the zebrawood worked fine, but every finish I had in my cabinet darkened the wood. Tongue oil worked OK, but I would have liked it a little lighter. I'll have to give Watco a try.

Mick