Air Brake Hose for shop system

[skott nielsen]

I am outfitting my new shop and just picked up a nice CastAir 60 gallon 4Hp compressor. It was shipped tp an auto parts store and the guys there suggested using 3/4 inch air brake hose to run the lines in the shop. It is rated to 150 PSI and my compressor upper limit is 125psi. Any thoughts if this is wise or safe. It is a fairly flexible nylon hose wrapped with an outer cover linked with compression fittings.

Skott

[Steve Rozmiarek]

Skott, its fairly tough stuff, and while it would work, I would still use hard pipe of some sort. It's easier to fit a hard pipe to slope and drain as required, and much easier to change at a future time. Pipe is easy to fasten to the wall for attachment to hoses and adapters as well. The flex line will require more fiddling to get it mounted solidly enough to the wall to anchor the hoses. Check on the economics too, I think the pipe is still cheaper.

Curious what others say though...

[Duane McGuire]

I'm of the opinion that steel pipe is the way to go. It seems to me that it is just plain safer. In addition to PSI rating, I think we also need to consider rupture strength on impact. Sure, I don't like the thought of projectiles flying from tablesaws ... but is there a woodworker who has not experienced it? I can envision a series of cascading mishaps with the hose, but not with steel pipe.

Just my cautious nature expressing itself.

[Ken Baker]

Lots of info out there on hard piping. Most gets down to Galvanized versus Copper - never PVC and haven't read too many people recommending rubber. Here is a really good site: http://www.oldsmobility.com/air-compressor-piping.htm

If you go hard piped - you can see in the pic below they recommend a flexible hose to transition from the compressor to the hard piping.

I'm doing mine this weekend, and am choosing 3/4" copper over Galvanized - just for the ease of installation. I don't have a pipe threader and don't wanna make ten trips back to the store to get odd sized lengths threaded.

Most recommend a 3/4" main line, with drops being 1/2". I think I'm gonna do my drops as 3/4" also - can't find any reason to make them 1/2" - and 3/4" just gives me a little more air, as your hard piping becomes an extension of the tank.

[skott nielsen]

Thanks for the great link.

Skott

[Chris Parks]

It seems like a whole lot of trouble just to run air in a small workshop. Nearly all my work is done with air and I just use retractable reels. it might not be so impressive but it works and has done for 20 years. the only thing you need to watch is keep an oil free outlet for spraying. The dryer is mounted on the main line before the reels and the compressor also has a dryer on it. Two drops of lubricant in the tool before use is adequate for the day and most probably over oiling is the biggest issue with air tools. They gum up and leak oil through the exhaust. Sure you can complicate all this stuff but why bother.

[Jim Becker]

Chris, a reel can indeed be a viable solution for many. I personally do find having a few piped in air-drops much more convenient from a safety standpoint as I have less hose lying about while working. In fact, the only time I have any kind of long hose in use is while spraying and when it's snaking out the door for some outdoor use, like filling tires. Otherwise, I have a short coiled/springy hose from an overhead drop for things like using pneumatic guns and the like during project construction. (BTW, my compressor is in an isolated closet with my cyclone, so some piping would be necessary regardless.

[Chris Parks]

Reels need to be placed strategically, there is no doubt about that. I have two one at each end of my workshop and having permanent wall outlets would not require any less hose on the ground. A permanent installation with steel pipe, to me is no advantage and is a further source of potential leaks. Steel pipe will also rust internally so that is an issue also. The only other issue I have with it is I am lazy and have absolutely no desire to wrestle galvanised pipe.

[Kenneth Hertzog]

Having owned and operated a body shop and repair facility. I have and Emglo air compressor ( 175 psi) you NEVER use galvinized pipe. The galvinized on the inside of the pipe flakes off over time and can plug your equipment nozzles and such.
Always use black pipe or stainless or copper ( something that will not flake off in the line)

Ken

[Jim Becker]

A permanent installation with steel pipe, to me is no advantage and is a further source of potential leaks. Steel pipe will also rust internally so that is an issue also. The only other issue I have with it is I am lazy and have absolutely no desire to wrestle galvanised pipe.

Mine is copper, but I do understand where you are coming from on the steel/iron.