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Thread: Battery Powered Drill Rant

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
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    Battery Powered Drill Rant

    I have a Craftsman 13.2V drill. Came with two batteries and a charger. Batteries no longer will hold a charge. Started looking for replacement batteries on Sears.com. They don't list that battery or at least I couldn't find it. Went to a battery rebuilder web site. Rebuild of one unit is $38.00 plus postage both ways. or something around $80 for both.

    Went back to the Sears web site and looked for another drill. There it was. A 13.2V drill, two batteries and a charger for $39.95. Pick up at store and no postage charges. The pictures look real close to the drill that I already have, not exact but close. I suspect that it is the same battery.

    Why in the world must you have to buy another drill that you don't really need in order to have batteries that function? Why can't two batteries be made into a pack and sold for something like $29.95? The waste is absolutely astounding.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
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    In the name of the almighty dollar, Mac. It is that simple. They want you dependant upon their batteries and no one elses.
    Wood: a fickle medium....

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  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
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    New Orleans LA
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    Curiouser and Curiouser

    I don't know the answer to your question, Mac. But I have had good results rebuilding the battery packs myself. In the case of Porter Cable drills the sub-C cells they use are available from Radio Shack and can be soldered together pretty easily. In fact, in at least one case I found only a few of the 10 cells were bad. They were shorted. Replaced them and the pack has been going about a year now. I know tha't the approach I'll try on the next occassion too.
    18th century nut --- Carl

  4. #4
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    Chris: You may be right, but explain to me why it is better for them to charge you $38.95 for two batteries, a charger and a drill rather than charge you 38.95 for the batteries alone.
    18th century nut --- Carl

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Collin County Texas
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    Quote Originally Posted by Carl Eyman
    I don't know the answer to your question, Mac. But I have had good results rebuilding the battery packs myself. In the case of Porter Cable drills the sub-C cells they use are available from Radio Shack and can be soldered together pretty easily. In fact, in at least one case I found only a few of the 10 cells were bad. They were shorted. Replaced them and the pack has been going about a year now. I know tha't the approach I'll try on the next occassion too.
    Good Idea, Carl. Sometimes a single cell can go into reverse polarization because it discharged faster than the other cells in the pack. A good jolt or two of high current can get their attention and back into service. A good source of info on the care and feeding of nicads can be found at Battereis

    Lastly, the electrican who wired our house uses Makita cordless drills. He says when the battery gets low, he ties the trigger down so the drill runs continuous until it completely stops, then he recharges the battery. He claims he never has a battery problem, but it is a Makita
    Last edited by Ken Garlock; 06-09-2004 at 5:19 PM.
    Best Regards, Ken

  6. #6
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    Feb 2003
    Location
    Oak Ridge, NC
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    Well now to add insult to injury. I picked up the new 13.2V drill. The batteries for the new drill while the same voltage, size and shape as the ones for my old drill have the stem altered so they won't work in the older drill motor. So I can't use them on the old drill, only on the new one. Further, the new drill while the same voltage rating is a little bit smaller and about 30% lighter in weight. I bet when I get to use it I find that it doesn't have the same torque as the old one either.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
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    Just outside of Spring Green, Wisconsin
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    Mac, for the price, I guess you'll probably find that you get what you paid for. Personally, I will *never* buy another Crapsman cordless drill again! Period! Not only is there the battery issue, but their chucks rank right "up there" with HF and "Honest John's Drill Emporium"! They kind of work OK on hex shanks, but I've yet to drive a regular HS bit into some hardwood without it spinning out of the chuck! I end up having to take whatever bit I have in my Festool, chuck it on the bit and get it out of the hole! They now have a 14.4v angle drill, which I saw in a flyer and I was tempted. That is, until I used my regular 18v C-man again. The heck with it. I'll order the right angle attachment for my Festool and KNOW that it will work! If I had the $$, I'd throw my other 3 cordless drills away and just get another Festool. I'm not sure I've ever owned a keyed chuck drill that holds bits as well as the F-tool! That's MY story and I'm stickin' to it! Good luck with your new one. I sincerely hate to say it, but I think you'll need it!
    Cheers,
    John K. Miliunas

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