The standard mitre gauge that came with my delta bench saw has notieable "play" in it. Is there any way to correct this? At this time I do not want to buy a new mitre gauge.
The standard mitre gauge that came with my delta bench saw has notieable "play" in it. Is there any way to correct this? At this time I do not want to buy a new mitre gauge.
The means by which an end is reached must exemplify the value of the end itself.
Zahid. Dependind on the source of the play there are a few tricks. If the miter moves in a "side to side" wobble in the slot you can use a center punch to "bulge out" the side of the miter slide and tighten it up. This is accomplished by turning the miter slide upside down and center punching a small dimple in the slide at both ends of the slide and close to the edge this causes the wall of the slide to bulge out and tightens it up in the slot.The washers that are used to guide your miter can also be changed out with some slightly larger ones, made of brass or copper and filed to fit your miter slot better.
The dimple the sides witha center punch only works for a limited time. The solution I used on mine was to get some UHMW tape of the right thickness and apply it to the side of the miter gauge. I now have zero play and low friction. The tape lasts for several years of heavy use too.
I think either Wood or American Woodworker magazines just did an article on a new product made from Cool Blocks for bandsaws where they drill the side of the cross bar and insert some spring loaded plugs made up of the cool block material. It takes out the play, is low friction and is adjustable for wear. If you are handy with a drill press you could drill and tap the bar from the side and insert some nylon setscrews eliminate the gap.
Lee Schierer
USNA '71
Go Navy!
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Lee, the UHMW tape sounds like a reversible option. What types of stores would typically carry these. Here in central Arkansas we are limited to Lowes or Home depot for tools and lumber.
The means by which an end is reached must exemplify the value of the end itself.
I think I've seen it online from WoodCraft or Rockler.Originally Posted by Zahid Naqvi
Zahid, I tried the center punch thing with very limited results. I eventually just made a sled out of 1/2" MDF and made sure its runner was nice and snug in the miter slot. This worked great for me and gives a lot more support to the piece you're cutting. Alan in Md.
Alan T. Thank God for every pain free day you live.
You're not likely to find UHMW tape in a store. I've seen it in McMasterCarr and I believe Rocklers and Woodworkers supply carry it. It is sold as "slick Tape". Do a google search for UHMW tape and you will find numerous sources. The tape I used was about 0.005 or 0.010 thick. Use a feeler gauge to see how much space you have and order tape just slightly thiner than the space.
Lee Schierer
USNA '71
Go Navy!
My advice, comments and suggestions are free, but it costs money to run the site. If you found something of value here please give a little something back by becoming a contributor! Please Contribute
Zahid, check out the Q&A in the current issue (July 2004) of American Woodworker (pg 8). They feature the True-fit Miter Bar System, and list http://www.prairieriverwoodworking.c...?optionsid=153 as a source.
I do not know anything about the product or the the source, just coincidence that I saw it a day or two before your post.
Good Luck, Tony
Tony
Tony, the Tru-Fit mitre bar system sounds like a good idea, and it's within budget as well .
The means by which an end is reached must exemplify the value of the end itself.
Dump that Delta drudge in the trash and get some aftermarket miter gauge that you will be happy with. Incras are great, and there are others
MARK
I built a sled... it works great.
The most common miter I cut is a 45. to hold the wood in place I use either a 45 block I've made or one of those inexpensive draftsman's triangles. It's amazing how accurate they are and it's a very in expensive solution.
Good Luck
Joe in Tampa
If you try the dimple thing, here's a caution. I once picked up miter gauge cheap from HD. It was a sloppy fit in my bandsaw slot. I think (not very accurately) that I will put deep dimples on one side, then flatten them to fit. After center punching neatly all along the side, I happen to look at my handy work. Not so handy. I bowed that sucker probably a 1/4" out of alignment. Equal marks on both sides if you take that route. Even then there is risk of bowing in any direction.
David