Load Bearing Walls

[Dave Brandt]

Is there an easy way to tell if a wall is load-bearing? We're trying to make some changes to a room downstairs, that has 3 doors lined up (one into a closet, one into a bathroom, and one into a hallway. There are no walls directly above these doors on the main level. The doorways are about 12 1/2 feet from the outside wall, and just under 12 feet to the block wall that forms the crawl space opposite the outside wall. It's late, so if this makes any sense, I'd be amazed. Thanks!

[Peter Stahl]

The load bearing wall is usually the one running the full length of the house. This is usually where the joist rest. The only way you can take any part of it out is to replace it with the proper engineered header.

[Dave Brandt]

I should have mentioned that the total length of the wall (with the 3 doors) is only 10 feet long.

[Jeff Todd]

can you tell what way the upstairs floor joists are running do they cross the wall or parallel to it? if they are Parallel there is a GREAT chance its not load bearing.. also if you look in basement/crawlspace if the floor under the wall doesn't have a larger than normal joist under it.. Like just single 2x10 Or I joist (as apposed to a LVL, multiple 2x10's, steel beam)than it is most likely not load bearing. with out being able to see the house it is really hard to tell. and short of having blue print of the house it is hard for anyone to tell (unless it is a smaller house) I Have built houses where dang near every wall was load bearing. (holding up microlams that hold floor joists) now if that makes sence i would be shocked

[Chip Lindley]

Yes, perpindicular to the floor joists! Usually running the length of the building. The load bearing wall may have door openings in it with headers above each. Any changes must be engineered with a proper header to span any void.

My daughter wanted *French doors* opening into her new bedroom remodel downstairs. A contractor friend suggested laminating a beam to span the 66" new opening. I laminated the beam 3-1/2" thick by 12" by 66" of four thicknesses of 3/4" exterior ply and one thickness of 1/2" OSB. Before tearing out the wall, I supported the floor joists above with heavy beams on steel jack posts placed on either side of the proposed opening. The opening was cut, new laminated beam installed, and jacks taken down (while I held my breath) It Worked! New double doors leading into an awsome 12x24 dream bedroom!

[Rick Fisher]

This is something you need to be sure about.

Many load bearing walls do not run the length of the house. Its common for them to be 2x6 but not always. Its also common for them to have support in the crawl space, but again.. not always..

The easiest way to tell is to find a set of prints for your home, or a truss layout. If these are not available, you can attempt to figure out what lands on the wall...

If there is a door in the wall, it should have a built up header if the wall is load bearing. A 2x10 or similar, perhaps 2 above the door. An easy way to figure it all out is to find all the load bearing walls in your house and figure out the floor design above.

If your not sure, ask a builder or even a framer to have a look..

[Scott Myers]

Good advice by all. It is usually easy to tell, but not always. But PLEASE don't trust a bunch of guys (including myself) on a forum for such a vital piece of info when we really have never seen your home.

If you have even the slightest doubt, hire a professional that is certified and bonded to do such inspections (architect/engineer, not a framer/carpenter) to have a look. Don't take chances with your home. Trying to save $200 could cost you thousands. I mean, how much do you have invested in your home monetarily VS the amount the inspection would cost? It is a good idea to know where these walls are in your house anyway.

But even if it is load bearing, it is pretty easy to make a laminate header as Chip mentioned. A couple of old screw jacks or hydraulic jacks and a timber or temporary beam of some sort and you can install the header pretty quickly. I've done it myself on a number of occassions. I just moved two doors in the load bearing wall in my basement a few months back. I couple of 2x somethings and a piece of 1/2" sheet, some nails and glue and you have a typical header. Pretty easy stuff.

The other thing you could do is to just go ahead and assume and treat it as if it is load bearing and put in the header. It would cost less than the engineer inspection by far.

[Justin Leiwig]

The other thing you could do is to just go ahead and assume and treat it as if it is load bearing and put in the header. It would cost less than the engineer inspection by far.

Best advice given so far. Anytime I do any sort of wall moving or door moving I always treat it as a load bearing wall and overdo the header and jackstuds. No sense in not overdoing it, and your house wont fall down on top of you.

[Brian Effinger]

Good advice by all. It is usually easy to tell, but not always. But PLEASE don't trust a bunch of guys (including myself) on a forum for such a vital piece of info when we really have never seen your home.

If you have even the slightest doubt, hire a professional that is certified and bonded to do such inspections (architect/engineer, not a framer/carpenter) to have a look. Don't take chances with your home. Trying to save $200 could cost you thousands. I mean, how much do you have invested in your home monetarily VS the amount the inspection would cost? It is a good idea to know where these walls are in your house anyway.

I couldn't have said it any better. Although a sketch of your floor layout may help determine if it is load bearing or not.

[Don Bullock]

...But PLEASE don't trust a bunch of guys (including myself) on a forum for such a vital piece of info when we really have never seen your home.

If you have even the slightest doubt, hire a professional that is certified and bonded to do such inspections (architect/engineer, not a framer/carpenter) to have a look. Don't take chances with your home. Trying to save $200 could cost you thousands. ...
But even if it is load bearing, it is pretty easy to make a laminate header as Chip mentioned...

I have removed a wall in a home and fully agree with Scott on this one. Fortunately in my case the wall wasn't load bearing except near one end. The engineer I hired designed a way to support that section of the roof and I was able to easily remove the wall.

You may also wish to consult a realtor and your insurance agent. Changes in a home's configuration can greatly decrease or increase a home's value. A realtor can give you an idea what impact your planned change may have on your home's value. Many don't realize that changes done to a home can affect their insurance coverage. This is especially true if the changes aren't done by a licensed contractor and/or designed by a licensed architect or engineer.

I know that building permits a touchy subject for some, but removing a wall may require a permit in your area. Yes, you can remove the wall yourself or have it removed by a contractor without a permit, but when you resell your home you may have to disclose that it was done without a permit. That in itself could decrease the value of your home. In today's "buyer's market" and declining home values that's something that you may wish to consider.

As Scott says:

Don't take chances with your home. Trying to save $200 could cost you thousands. I mean, how much do you have invested in your home monetarily VS the amount the inspection would cost? It is a good idea to know where these walls are in your house anyway.

[Jeffrey Makiel]

If we are talking about a basement wall, chances are it is not load bearing. Main floor ceiling joists usually land on a beam (engineered lumber, stacked two by, or steel I-beam) and the beam is supported by lally columns which are properly foundated below the floor slab...not a partition wall.

However, I agree with the above, this is only a guess which is not sufficient to be considered sound advise.

-Jeff

[John Baranowski]

I have a similar question, with a slight twist. I have laid out a crude diagram below(couldn't get the real drawing to show), that shows my house. I was planning to tear down wall (A), but don't know if it is load bearing(I will look when I open the drywall, but thought I would get an early opinion).

The trusses run in the direction shown, so they are unsupported for part of the house, which would mean that the wall doesn't need to be load bearing, imo. but that doesn't mean that it is not.

does anyone know if this is common to have an open unsupported section of roof with the rest on load bearing walls?

[Brett Baldwin]

If they are true trusses, they are probably self supporting. That's generally the point of trusses. Your interior walls may not be load bearing even though they are aligned in the traditional support direction. Then again, the trusses over the open end of your house may be engineered for the span where the ones with support walls could be engineered with support in mind. As usual, it would be good to get an expert's advice.

[Matt Ocel]

If your home is newer 10 fifteen years, Laminated Veneer Lumber, (LVL'S) have been used to dramaticaly change bearing in order to create quite spectacular spaces, in every price range home.
So if you don't have a "standard" type of joist layout, conatct a Pro.
Once again, if your home is newer, the local municipality may still have a copy of yor plan.

I would give you suggestions on determining bearing walls, but thats only the begining. If it is a bearing wall that needs to be altered, there is more to the equation than throwing in a solid header, adding some trimmers, and away you go.
Loads need to be calculated for proper header size, piont loads need to be determined along with possibly footings.

[Jack Porter]

Dave,

First off hiring an engineer to come in and determine the required header would cost you about 200-300 bucks, that would be including a stamped letter to the building dept. and calcs. Or, some lumber yards will provide stamped engineering design if you buy the lumber/lvl's from them.

Also keep in mind the new posts for headers would need proper support on foundations or walls. I recommned having a structural engineer take a look at it.