Applying Shellac

[Ryan Cassidy]

I've just started experimenting with a few different finish options for a new project. It will be a buffet/cupboard with 3 drawers across the top, 2 cabinets (one on either end) and 2 shelves in the middle. It will be made of Jatoba (Brazilian Cherry). I've never finished anything with shellac, but the finish I'm leaning toward right now is a coat of BLO followed by a few coats of Amber shellac. I did a few small test pieces and this is what the wife seemed to like best too based on limited exposure to the options.

That said.... I'd like to get your opinions on more classic finishes (if any) for Brazilian Cherry and as well, what is the best method to apply Shellac? Foam Brush? Rag? Spray Gun? I haven't fully experimented with application technique just yet, but my foam brush/220 sand and repeat method produced good results. Just thought I'd ask before I start the project in an effort to take Good Results and try and make them Great results.

I've got about 6 projects that are in one stage or the next that WILL be finished this weekend (ok Maybe Tuesday) and then this project is the next in line.

Cheers,
Ryan

[Prashun Patel]

foam brush on larger surfaces might be tricky. Padding is probably the best - once you get the hang of it. You can also improve your padding/brushing results by using a thinner cut.

[Ralph Okonieski]

I've used shellac about a half dozen times or so and had some good finishes and some I was not as happy with. I was using a fairly small folded cloth until I found this reference

http://www.hardwoodlumberandmore.com...MakingPad.html

I started using the pad and it is much easier to apply and gives a finish that almost (but not quite) sprayed. It is the only way to apply shellac by hand; of course spraying would be better but this is second choice. Try it. It is not as difficult as it may seem and the results are well worth it.

Homestead has info on padding also.

http://www.homesteadfinishing.com/ht...adshellac2.htm

I have no affiliation with either company but found their information helpful.

[Jim Becker]

For larger pieces, I spray my shellac via an HVLP conversion gun. For smaller ones, I will either use a spray bomb shellac or...brush it. I have taken the time to learn at least a little bit "how" to brush it and that makes a major difference. You can't brush shellac like it's varnish since it starts to flash off so quickly. Get it on, a quick smoothing stroke and then on to the next pass along your wet edge. Speaking of edges, you also need to be sure to "break" the edges of your workpiece with some fine abrasives so that the finish will not pile up from surface tension. While this takes practice, the results can be very nice.

That said, many folks are much more comfortable padding shellac than brushing it. You're doing essentially the same thing as you do with brushing, but you feel a little more in control. The pad can also be lubricated with a little BLO to reduce friction and sticking during the shellac application. (That's a neat feature of shellac)

[Ryan Cassidy]

I'm pretty good with a spray gun. I'll have to look into thinning it a tad and shooting it with the spray gun. I'm also going to swing by the craft store tomorrow and see if I can pick up some of those materials mentioned in the article. I'm going to try both and see how each works for me. All looks like a good idea and was definitely some good reading. Thanks for the information!

Cheers,
Ryan

[Larry Fox]

I tend to spray it via an HVLP setup. I have also padded it with good result. I don't brush it much as it is fussy (as Jim mentions). It sprays like a dream but make sure you vent your area well as the mist is flamable.

One other point though. Depending on the use of the buffet shellac as the final topcoat might not be the best choice. If there is a chance wine or other alcohol will be spilled on it I might reconsider as the alcohol could damage the finish.

[Ryan Cassidy]

The Zinsser Bulls Eye Shellac is the Wax Based Shellac correct? The Zinsser Seal Coat is the Non-Wax Shellac? That is what is available locally for right now.

All great information and links above. After doing some additional reading I think I'm going to hold off on the Spraying until I get my ventilation installed in the shop. Padding seems like the way to go for now.

I think this is one of those "Ah HA" moments. It's the transition from Poly is the Best finish in the world to there are actually easier and better products out there. I did some fiddling with it this morning and it's pretty neat the different techniques that can be used. (with the BLO or buffing/cleaning it up with DNA).

Thanks again for all the insight.

Cheers,
Ryan

[Heather Thompson]

Ryan,

If you can get a copy of the February 2006 Woodwork there is an article on page 45 that decribes making a shellac applicator using raw lambs wool, linen and cheesecloth. The applicator is stored in a jar and can be used for years, I used the same one for better than two years until the seal on the jar gave out and it dried out. I also mix my own shellac, there are alot of variations out there to choose from.

Heather

[Jim Becker]

Ryan, SealCoat is dewaxed and what I use. It sprays beautifully right out of the container...no cutting necessary. Brushes/pads well, too.

[whit richardson]

Jim's advice is good as he is probably more experienced than myself. I too have been learning to brush shellac because I don't have a sprayer or a good place to work it. Experts like Flexner and others recommend when applying by hand methods to cut the shellac and build up more thin layers than a few heavy layers.

Lastly not to knock shellac but if your piece is going to have food or drinks, plates, warm to hot items placed on it the finish won't hold up as well as some poly or lacquer based finishes. Only to say consider carefully how you are going to use your piece before commiting to one finish. I do like shellac and use on for most of my antique to just old country stuff refinishing jobs.

[Howard Acheson]

Here is the best treatise I have seen on shellac and how to apply it.

http://www.hardwoodlumberandmore.com...llacIntro.html

The best way to apply shellac on non-flat surfaces is to brush or spray it. To apply onto flat surfaces, nothing beats padding it on.

[Neal Clayton]

unless you pre-finish all your pieces getting into nooks and crannies with shellac and a brush is difficult at best. it's too runny.

spraying would be the way to go, imo.

[Jim Becker]

BTW, if you do brush shellac...use a GOOD brush. Cheap brushes are not worth your time or money. And you should also dedicate the brush to the shellac, too--one nice thing about shellac is that you don't have to "get it all out" at the end of a session. The small amount of Shellac potentially left in the brush will re-dissolve the next time you got to use it. If you use both waxy and de-waxed, you need two brushes so you don't contaminate.

[Ryan Cassidy]

Another quick thought... Given how fast shellac flashes. Is it feasible to spray it outside given the right temp and all.

I've done a few test pieces with Rubbing and brushing this weekend and have been pleasantly surprised with the results. I'm finding I can't test things enough as I've been unpleased with many finishes in the past.

Ryan

[Steve Schoene]

I use a brush, but for me the right brush is a watercolor wash brush, with very fine synthethic bristles (Taklon gold). Such a brush carries very little material, but it applies it so thinnly and evenly that you don't need to worry much about wet edges since overlaps just about average out in a couple of coats. You need to work quickly, but neatly, never going back for a missed spot or to try to smooth out anyplace. That is, brushing only in one direction, except right at the beginning of a stroke. Their, I start perhaps a half inch from where the last stroke ended, brush quickly toward the previous stroke and then reverse and move on the other direction. That eliminates any lump where the brush touches down.

Padding on shellac with a absorbent material surrounded by a smooth cloth can work quite well.

Foam brushes can be a major problem since many of them will deteriorate in shellac if the project gets to be of any size.