Cabinet Saw Under $1500

[Arnold E Schnitzer]

I'm ready to upgrade to a cabinet saw. My needs are: riving knife, 230 volt single-phase, left-tilt, good dust hook-up. I'm hoping to see some real-world reviews/experiences here. Thanks!

[Jeff Duncan]

Real world huh.....ok 2 Unisaws, 1 53' paid $200, replaced fence for an additional $200 and was in business.
Newest Uni, mid-seventies version $235 w/ Beis 78" commercial fence and overarm guard included.
You want left tilt your gonna have a lot less options in the used market, but better to get what you want. Your looking at a used Powermatic 66, one of my favorite saws by the way. And probably going to spend about $1k for one in very good condition.
You want new....good luck, for your budget you'll be buying something from Asia. Personally I'd take a used 66 over anything that costs $1500 new. but that's just me
good luck,
JeffD

[Jason White]

If you want a riving knife, you're limited to new machines only (unless you get really, really lucky).

I'm ready to upgrade to a cabinet saw. My needs are: riving knife, 230 volt single-phase, left-tilt, good dust hook-up. I'm hoping to see some real-world reviews/experiences here. Thanks!

[scott spencer]

I've been pleased with the Shop Fox W1677...left tilt, 220v 1ph, 4" dust port and ramped bottom. It comes with a standard splitter, but Bob Ross offers a bolt on ripping knife (B-O-R-K for short) for the Griz 1023 and Shop Fox left tilt cab saws....it's an aftermarket riving knife that travels up and down and tilts with the blade...~ $125 IIRC.

The Grizzly G1023SL (~ $1150 shipped) is essentially the same saw as the SF....you can add the aftermarket riving knife, a mobile base, and decent blade, and should still be within budget.

Steel City might offer a cabinet saw with riving knife within your price range, but I'm not sure if it's a true industrial style cab saw or a hybrid with a 3hp motor.

[John Schreiber]

I'm in about the same place. I don't see any cabinet saws out there with a riving knife in that price range. I think that a riving knife is a very reasonable safety requirement though. SawStop is way out of my price range, but the safety of a riving knife should be in my price range.

I'm really leaning toward skipping the table saw all together though and going with one of the quality guided rail systems. The EZ Smart/Eurekazone products (they have a forum on this board) look like the way to go for something that will really replace a table saw, while further increasing safety and keeping cost down. The system also has some options which could make a chop saw unnecesary and some clever uses of their system with a router too.

[Brian Kerley]

Never used one, but heard good things.

Steel City 3HP, Left Tilt, Granite Top, 30" fence, riving knife, dust port, everything you are looking for. $1499 @ woodwerks or $1399 @ Tool King. Take your pick, but shipping will add a little.

[Paul Ryan]

Arnold,

I think you are going to have a hard time filling that shopping list for $1500 or less from any other brand than Steel city. I personally own that steel city 35905G the 3hp granite topped saw with 30in fence. I paid $1299 back in April. I just checked it is going for $1399 right now. You can get the cast iron version for $50 less and the 50" fence for $100 more. So of you want a granit topped it would just squeeze in under your budget, or save $50 for the cast version.
I really haven't posted a review for my saw yet even though I had planed on it.
I was alittle dissapointed with start up and shut off vibrations when I first got it. But that was being caused by not fitting snugly in the mobile base it is on. I have since pounded door shims between the edges of saw and the base. That has helped the saw fit tight to the base and lessen the vibrations greatly.
The saw is a little underpowered for a 3hp if you ask me. I expected it to have a little more power than it does. I have bogged it down ripping 2 in stock hard maple and white oak. Now I was using the 40 tooth combo blade that the saw came with. Since I have changed to a 40 tooth freud combo blade that is thin kerf but I have not ripped anything that thick with the freud blade so I can comment on performance with this blade. My other complaint is something I saw some one else mention was that the measuring tape stuck on the fence rail seems to expand and contract with the weather. I adjusted the fence measurement when I changed blades but when the spring weather changed to the hot humid weather we have in the summer the taped seemed to change length. And since we move to winter it has seemed to change again. Those are my really only concerns.
What I can say is that the saw still has plenty of power for me and I think if I put in a rip blade I wouldn't have any problem. And then there is the fence, it is the beauty of this machine. It is just awesome. It slides so easy locks so tight and is very easily adjusted if needed. The riving knife
is easly removed if needed. The dust collection is excellent with my small 1hp delt collector. The granite top is really nice.
There were long threads here about people being worried about granite being durable. I can tell you it is not an issue. I know if you take care of this saw the top with last longer than you and I. And you dont have to worry about rust pits. My shop is an unheated steel pole garage. So I have plenty of problems with condensation in the spring expecially. That is the reason I went with the granite and I am happy I did. It is so hard and unless you abuse this top you wont have a problem. I would worry about the durabliy of cast compared to this. There were guys worried about banging wood against it and cracking it. Trust me unless you tip the saw over or beat on the top with a hammer you arn't going to crack it. I know you will crack cast just as easy if you abuse it.
The only reason I would recomend against the granite would be if you plan on drilling the top for jigs or like to use magnetic fixtures then it is not for you. But if you can live with out those two things I would go with the granite. As far as competion jet and grizzly would be the next closest competitors with riving knifes but thouse will put you well over your budget. If you go to steel cities web sight you should be able to find your nearest distrubitor and go look at one. Good luck!

[Chip Lindley]

My .02 supports the purchase of a used Powermatic 66.

June '07 I purchased a 1998 model, Baldor 3hp 1ph, 50" Accu Fence, Mobile stand, Overarm blade guard w/dust collection, WITH Exaktor sliding table!!! at auction for *drumroll*... $1175. Finally, the saw of my dreams at about a fourth the price of everything included.

In general, older machinery is better made (in USA) and offers much more *Bang For The Buck* than New. (IMHO)

Almost forgot!! the PM66 came with a Biesemeyer anti kickback riving knive TOO.....

[Brian Kerley]

Almost forgot!! the PM66 came with a Biesemeyer anti kickback riving knive TOO.....

Hate to correct you, but that's just a splitter, not a riving knife. The riving knife travels up and down with the blade, as well as at angles, so you never have to remove it, even for cuts that aren't through the entire board. It's a pretty slick setup if you've ever seen one. Very, very safe. Good to hear about that PM66 score! Mine probably wasn't quite as good of a deal, just a 1966 PM66 (yeah, the green with a stripe, first year) for about $400.

[Chip Lindley]

Is why I almost forgot...I never use the *splitter* except for long rips in squirrely hardwood to keep the kerf from closing. I was only adding to the value of my *Gloat* saw purchase with the addition of another $149 worth of hardware.

I did 10 minutes research online for *Splitter*/*Riving knife* and found that most offerings are just about what I have, OR a whole lot more! Most riving knives are combined with a blade guard and do not raise or lower with the blade. They also include anti-kickback pawls. Not sure to which specific saw you are referring, but no worries, I have more than I need now.

[Jon Todd]

I have the Jet Xacta deluxe with Riving Knife, 3HP 220V with 52 inch fence and it came with the side table and mobile base. I love it, And I got it used for probably 1 hour At the most. I payed 700.00

[Andy Casiello]

Most riving knives are combined with a blade guard and do not raise or lower with the blade.

That's not correct. Riving knives differ from splitters in that they ride up and down with the blade, and are independent from other blade guards or dust collector components.

[Grant Vanbokklen]

I did 10 minutes research online for *Splitter*/*Riving knife* and found that most offerings are just about what I have, OR a whole lot more! Most riving knives are combined with a blade guard and do not raise or lower with the blade. They also include anti-kickback pawls. Not sure to which specific saw you are referring, but no worries, I have more than I need now.

Fine Woodworking video about the Riving Knife

[Steve Rozmiarek]

I have the Jet Xacta deluxe with Riving Knife, 3HP 220V with 52 inch fence and it came with the side table and mobile base. I love it, And I got it used for probably 1 hour At the most. I payed 700.00

Jon, you get my vote for steal of the month!

[Chip Lindley]

In spite of fact that the FFW video will not load, and I cannot peek at the eight FWW reviews of new riving knive-equipped saws for 2009 without the *membership,* I yield to your point that a riving knife is just that.

Do your own Google search and see how many manufacturers tout their splitter/pawl/guard combos as riving knives. Everyone is jumping on the bandwagon now I suppose. Since I got a freebie Biesemeyer non-riving knife included with my Gloat PM66, I am more than happy, and now am going to bed. ni ni !!