Router lift a requirement on first router table?

[Todd Pretty]

I'm just in the process of building my first router table. I've only ever used routers mounted to the table by using the fixed base of the router, never one that was mounted with a dedicated router lift.

I want to use the system for cutting dovetails (probably with the Jointech fence system). What is the benefit of using a router lift? Is it worth the $300 or so to upgrade the Jointech system to include the digital lift, or Jessum, or similar?

Thanks for any thoughts or opinions.

[Neal Clayton]

for rail/stile door and window work, i would argue that a precise height system is necessary, otherwise probably not.

[Dewey Torres]

Todd,
I have the rival Incra system and if you plan in exploiting the amazing accuracy of your Jointech for things like double dovetails, yes the lift is worth it.

I have the Jessem lift made by Rousseau so I can't comment of the digital ones but again... if you are going with a Jointech positioning fence which is accurate to the 1000th of an inch, you should at least invest in the lift for height adjustments. I will bet sooner or later you will buy a lift either way. I got fed up with adjusting my lift from below and I equate it to going from "dial up modem" to "high speed internet"

I will never go back.

[Doug Shepard]

Folks used router tables for decades before lifts were invented. So requirement? No, but I should have done it way sooner.

[Chip Lindley]

I simply cannot get $300 worth of Bang from a lift to justify its purchase. Sure, they are snazzy and overly accurate (imo), but I have no burning desire to play with *double dovetails.* I run lots of edge profiles and mouldings--stuff associated with cabinet making. That's $300 to buy new bits with!

I use a P-C 7518 router motor with a fixed base attached to a table insert. For profiles which will use multiple bits I have an insert and base for three 690 motors. My setup works for me because the P-Cs screw in and out. Many other makes are not as straight forward, and (imo again) plunge routers have no biz mounted in a router table.

I only use the inserts to change from the 690 to 7518. I have done this a long time, and can reach under, unlock, and twist the bit to desired height in about the time it's taken me to type this. Removing and inserting the 690 motors are easy enough. The heavier 7518 needs a little more consideration. But I manage.

If a lift really had that much utility for me, I would jump on one. But I remain liftless!! I made my own fence and saved another couple of hundred $$. Now....don't Even get me started on those Rube Goldberg fences that take up 2/3 of a router table, and are totally unfit for a router in a TS extension!....sheesh!

[John Hixon]

For only $170
Rousseau 3002 on Amazon

Personally, I don't want to have three routers so bit swaps are easy.
With the lifts, height adjustment and bit swap is above the table. My router is mostly enclosed under the table so changes down there are real inconvenient. It is so easy to adjust the height and make small, repeatable changes.

[Myk Rian]

Many router bases already have a lift built in. My PC 894 does. And no, a lift is not a requirement, just an add-on.

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

Because I have my Triton in the original plunge base I quickly started to use it as a quill feed machine.
Which you can not do without the freedom to move the router under power. It allows for different kinds of work.

I'm sure I'd not have missed this capability had I not got this setup but now that I have it ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~

[Greg Hines, MD]

A requirement? No. And, for a first router table? Probably not, even to the extent that will probably want on. Get to know the capabilities of your table first, then start adding things to it. Most first-time router tables area board, base screwed underneath, a long board for a fence and two c-clamps. You are already beyond that, but don't forget that you can always add a lift later.

As someone says above, having an extra router plate or two is never a bad thing. Even if you relegate all routing to your lift, some people will use an old router plate for mounting a jigsaw or portable spindle sander upside down to utilize their tables in different ways.

Doc

[pat warner]

They have their merits; see no.2 for short analysis.

[Dewayne Reding]

Depends on what you plan to build in the next few years. If you can find the router powerful enough to do what you want, and it's not a pain to adjust installed n the table, then you will be fine without.

I am doing a fair amount of work with large bits, where precison is necessary. Such as rail and stile, raised panel work on a lot of clocks for gifts. The Jessem lift and a big PC router were one of my early purchases, and don't regret it.

If I were just doing edge treatments like Chip, then my setup would be overkill. A PC 894 with the above the table adjustment would be quite sufficient.

[john bateman]

I've used a Makita 3612C plunge router in my table for about 5 years. It doesn't give the utmost in precision, regarding height adjustment, but I've never been unable to accomplish my needs with it. That would include making doors.

[Larry Edgerton]

I simply cannot get $300 worth of Bang from a lift to justify its purchase. Sure, they are snazzy and overly accurate (imo), but I have no burning desire to play with *double dovetails.* I run lots of edge profiles and mouldings--stuff associated with cabinet making. That's $300 to buy new bits with!

I use a P-C 7518 router motor with a fixed base attached to a table insert. For profiles which will use multiple bits I have an insert and base for three 690 motors. My setup works for me because the P-Cs screw in and out. Many other makes are not as straight forward, and (imo again) plunge routers have no biz mounted in a router table.

I only use the inserts to change from the 690 to 7518. I have done this a long time, and can reach under, unlock, and twist the bit to desired height in about the time it's taken me to type this. Removing and inserting the 690 motors are easy enough. The heavier 7518 needs a little more consideration. But I manage.

If a lift really had that much utility for me, I would jump on one. But I remain liftless!! I made my own fence and saved another couple of hundred $$. Now....don't Even get me started on those Rube Goldberg fences that take up 2/3 of a router table, and are totally unfit for a router in a TS extension!....sheesh!

Ditto, same setup to a T. You just saved me a lot of typing.

[Ellen Benkin]

I have the PC router with the built in lift. I found it useless because it isn't accurate enough -- you set the height and lock the router and it jumps off the setting. I got the least expensive lift from Rockler and have been very happy with it. When I set it, it stays set.

[Brent Ring]

I have a WoodPecker lift for my Hitachi M12V, and I love it. After having a straight mounted router in a table for a long time, a lift saves me loads time for the work that I do. If you are in the business, and can afford multiple router stations configured for specifics, then maybe not. I also have the Incra Ultra-Lite system on mine and enjoy that as well. I have a 2.25 hp handheld hitachi as well for the other tasks and I think I am about right for my needs, the beginning/intermediate woodworker. I did hate trying to be accurate without a lift though. Just my .02