Accuracy of miter saws

[Brian Kincaid]

Interesting...I'm picturing something fairly bulky attached to the saw. Do you have a picture?

---Mike

Sure, Here's some pics. I submitted this to a ww magazine, maybe it will pay off! I imagine it's already been done before though
Brian

100_8857.jpg

100_8858.jpg

[Rick Fisher]

I cut a 6" wide peice of plywood on a 45 degree angle. Put it back together as a scarf joint.

Then I took one piece and flipped it upside down, it made a 90.

I guess if the saw wasnt exactly 45 degrees, it was 44.9 degrees, this wouldnt be a perfect miter?

It seems pretty good ...

Of course this is a flat chunk of 6" plywood, not an intricate moulding..

I know I am wrong. The folks telling me are much more experienced.. I figured if one is 44.9, the other would be 45.1 ...

My head hurts..

[Barry Vabeach]

Brian, great idea, I may try it. Looking at it, I would guess you would want some material under the 90 add on fence, to keep the peice being cut level.

[Brian Kincaid]

Brian, great idea, I may try it. Looking at it, I would guess you would want some material under the 90 add on fence, to keep the peice being cut level.

Barry,
Yes, that will be jig 2.0
-Brian

[Sonny Edmonds]

You have to work at making it as close to perfect as you want it to be.
I even have one of those cast iron "guillotines" (the name escapes me) for shaving in picture frame joints. (Red feather, or red reever, or something)
It is up to you to set up and dial in your machine.
Like others, I too will grab a SCMS handle of a display model of the offerings and see how much they can be deflected with twist or side pressure.
You learn to use your hand and arm in a neutral pressure and get fairly accurate cuts.
But nothing is perfect. No matter how they write the ad's.
(Aluminum is for aircraft and beer cans!)

TIP:
Use a negative 6 degree hook blade on your miter saw for beautiful finished edges of your cuts.