Thoughts on #7 Jointing Plane

[Lyndon Graham]

Having never even touched one, any opinions on the Lie-Nelsen versus Lee Valley will be welcome?

[Mike Henderson]

Having never even touched one, any opinions on the Lie-Nelsen versus Lee Valley will be welcome?

You don't indicate anything about your use, but unless you're a really big hand tool user, a Stanley will work very well for you - you won't gain a whole lot by getting a LN or a LV.

Mike

[Danny Burns]

I use to think a #7 was the biggest plane I would have.

The blade width changes from a #7 to a #8 from 2 3/8" to 2 5/8" being one reason why I didn't want to go higher, since my LV jig would not hold a wider blade, but after having the opportunity to handle both planes, I decided that the extra weight of the #8 was a real advantage.

If you can try a #8 out before you buy.

[Tristan Raymond]

If you were thinking of a LN or LV you could probably get a #7 and #8 Stanley and have some money left over. I love my LN and Veritas planes, but my jointers are Stanley and they are fine.

[Lyndon Graham]

OK, here is the confession of my sins.

I have never used a plane before. Today: I am building a cabinet makers workbench. The 1st thing I need is to make it and keep it flat. and after the moisture thing happens, make it flat again.

Tomorrow: I have dreams of thick and massive type SW "rustic" furniture, starting with shelves 2" thick finished. I would love to be able to make these of Mesquite, but the cost will be a stretch so maybe a cheaper wood will be necessary.

[John Dykes]

Eh - would be tempted to buy a Stanley #7. Learn to sharpen and use it (Did I mention how much I like Charlesworth DVDs?)... Use the $350 you saved on something else.

If you are new (as we all are\were), and aren't quite sure what you might need, you may run out of money very quickly buying the very best of each tool. Good tools won't depreciate... If you take care of that Stanley #7, it's likely you'll be able to sell it for more than what you bought it for.

Learn to sharpen.
Learn to sharpen.
Learn to sharpen.

[Joel Goodman]

Another vote for a Stanley #7. I have a type 15. I added a new iron but that was mainly due to pitting on the old one and was a "luxury" touch -- not essential. Save the big $ for other planes. If you're newish to planes go to Sandy Moss or Walt or one of the other dealers you see recommended here -- you'll get a good tool with no surprises and could always return it if need be.

[Joel Goodman]

Just noticed you said you were a new plane user -- in addition to the #7 Stanley why not get a very good block plane from LN or LV -- this will be a useful tool to learn about planes with that you will need as well. Combined you'll still save $. And don't forget sharpening stones!

[Thomas Knighton]

+1 here for the #7 Stanley. However, I do have to add that looking for old hardware store brands might be a cheaper alternative. They were often made by companies like Stanley or Sargent but can occasionally get missed by tool collectors, so their prices are pretty low. I picked up my DE7 (Diamond Edge from Shapleigh's Hardware) for about $40 in really good shape.

Tom

[Lyndon Graham]

Just noticed you said you were a new plane user -- in addition to the #7 Stanley why not get a very good block plane from LN or LV -- this will be a useful tool to learn about planes with that you will need as well. Combined you'll still save $. And don't forget sharpening stones!

I now own a:

Lie-Nelsen Low angle Block
Veritas #4 Bench

I am looking for the next one: Shoulder or #7 smoothing?

as for sharpeming, I am on that like white on rice.

Thanks

[Thomas Knighton]

I'd go #7 myself. A shoulder plane's role can be done by other tools, though not as well as the shoulder plane can do it. However, when you need a jointer plane, only a jointer plane will do

My thoughts on it anyways.

Tom

[Andrew Homan]

Lyndon,

You don't need a shoulder plane now. If you can get a wide chisel or a file, that will help you fit tenons for now. As for the jointer, the Lie-Nielsen is a wonderful tool but you can save a lot of money now by getting an older Stanley #7. If you want to upgrade the Stanley, order a replacement blade and chipbreaker from Lie-Nielsen, Hock, or Lee Valley.

I use a very old Stanley #7 with LN chipbreaker and blade. I've used it extensively for four-squaring boards and it has served me well. I think that it would have worked fine with the original blades, but the thicker blades made it easier for me to hone freehand. The chipbreaker, even with the old blades, gave an instantly recognizable improvement in performance.

The main thing is, get your jointer and start jointing and trying boards. I'm not sure where you are located but find out what kind of locally available woods are relatively inexpensive and fairly easy to plane, and get to it. One tip about starting out via handtools to make a first bench: watch out for bench plans that are aimed at jointing laminated tops out of a dozen pieces of wood. It's a bear of a task if you are handplaning, and no one from the era of hand-tool woodworking would have made a bench like that! If I had to start over again (hindsight is 20/20) I would have sourced 2 or 3 large slabs for the bench top. If you get a chance, check out Roy Underhill's website (The Woodwrights Shop) and look at the episode where he builds a workbench -- it's a miniature Roubo, perfect for a hand-tool-using woodworker.
-Andy

[Mike K Wenzloff]

Hello Lyndon,

The only thing I would add to Andrew's great post is that if you do breadboard type ends for attaching your end caps (if you have them), is that a large shoulder plane or other plane like a moving fillister is easier to level the "tenon" than a rasp or file (which is what I use on "regular" tenons).

And there are options locally for a vintage plane in good shape. One is Pacific Nortwest Tool Collectors meetings:
http://www.tooltimer.com/PNTC.htm

Winter meets are every other month in Aurora, but through the late spring until September are at Bill's (wonderful) place outside of Hillsboro. Low cost. If you cannot wait, I would point you to another local, Jon Zimmers:
http://www.jonzimmersantiquetools.com/
Jon was one of the very first people to use the web to sell old tools. He's a top-notch person.

Another old tool person I highly recommend is Lee Richmond at The Best Things in Richmond VA. The vintage tool section:
http://www.thebestthings.com/vintools.htm

I see you are in Hillsboro. I am in Forest Grove, the shop is in Cornelius. While I no longer have my metal bench planes, you are welcome to borrow my wood jointer. That goes for any other help you may need during your build. Feel free to come by or call.

Take care, Mike

[Andrew Homan]

Hello Lyndon,

[...] if you do breadboard type ends for attaching your end caps (if you have them), is that a large shoulder plane or other plane like a moving fillister is easier to level the "tenon" than a rasp or file (which is what I use on "regular" tenons).

I forgot about that, and Lyndon will probably indeed be making breadboard ends with the style (Southwest Rustic) that he proposes to build! Still, I think that he can hold off on the shoulder plane for now. (Bench project)

While I no longer have my metal bench planes, you are welcome to borrow my wood jointer. That goes for any other help you may need during your build. Feel free to come by or call.

What a nice offer! When I built my bench, a friend's shop and use of his tools were the key to my success (and lack of frustration).
-Andy

[Mark Roderick]

I own the LN #7. It is a fabulous tool and I use it all the time.