signing your work with what???

[roy knapp]

I have been signing my compleated work with a Ultra Fine Sharpie when there is dark wood its a problem.
I was thinking about the Cub Woodwriter and was wondering did anyone use this and how did you like it and is it worth the money.
I also was curios abou the Dremel Engraver, they clame it works on wood, thats what says in the catalog?

[Jim Becker]

Sharpie makes light color markers, too...I use them for marking our tack before taking it to the stables.

For turnings, I mostly have used the markers, but once I bought a decent pyrography setup, I switched to that. Mine is from Colwood.

[Steve Schlumpf]

Roy - I use an archival pen (India Ink) which can be found in most any craft/hobby store. Once I am done turning, I write name, wood species and date on the bare wood, let dry for about 1 minute and then apply finish. I have experimented using the dremel and the small round ball engraving cutter but prefer the archival pen. The pens do come in different colors and widths - so you may have options for marking dark woods.

[Bernie Weishapl]

Ditto what Steve said. I use the same thing. Stays on well and doesn't fade.

[Tony De Masi]

I too use the archival pens. I also have the cub woodwriter but haven't practiced with it enough to put it on a final turning.

Tony

[terry richards]

For dark woods like walnut or cocobolo, etc. I use a dip pen with a super fine nib (the kind we used in grade school) and gold ink. For light woods, I use an ultrafine Pentel rollerball.

[Dennis Peacock]

I use a Dremel small tipped engraver. Works very well and takes a very light touch.

[Chris Haas]

ive used a woodburning needle, its my grandfathers, and it isnt no hobby one, its a real nice one. i have also used his "spare" or hobby one. not so nice comparitively. after reading this thread though, i think i will try the pen though.

only nice thing about the woodburning is i have come up with my own brand i put on all my pieces so i think that looks better burned than written.

[doug young]

I really like the cub woodwriter. If you are good with penmanship it works great. If you are like me, people know that at least it is original. a friend has one and because his penmanship is so good it really looks cool. I always practice what i am going to write on a piece of scrap so i get the sizing right. I usually give it a once over sand with 300 just to take off any tiny charred pieces and to give the signature a little more clarity. doug

[Allen Neighbors]

This may help.
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=99175
Scroll down to the fourth post.

[Dean Thomas]

Steve, buddy!!!

When you sign with the archival pen/india ink, and you then apply finish, what finish do you use and is it a friction finish? Does the direct application to the wood and sufficient dry time make the ink stable enough to not blur

[Mike Vickery]

http://www.distinctiveturnings.com/t...odturnings.pdf
Small tutorial on using an engraver to sign your work.

[Curt Fuller]

I've used the sharpie fine tip pens for a long time and then recently started using a dremel engraver. And on some I use the engraver and then write in the engraving with the sharpie. But if I had a good fine tipped burner that is what I'd use. I really like the looks of the burned signature.

[Dean Thomas]

When you sign on dark wood, you might consider using either a burn technique or the Dremel and then using a silver Sharpie to fill in the void. And if you spill over, a little sandpaper will fix it right up.

[Allen Neighbors]

Thanks for the tute, Mike. Looks nice!