Best way to get started doing INLAYS

[Tony Joyce]

The Dremel is smaller easier to control for doing stringing on narrow legs and such. A small router will work though.

Tony Joyce

[Doug Shepard]

Basic question: Why would you use a Dremel with a Stewmac attachment instead of a small router (such as a Colt)? I think the cost would be about the same but the router would give you more flexibility. I'm also interested in doing some inlay work and want to better understand all my options. Thanks.

Steve

As far as I know the StewMac attachment is specifically made to fit a Dremel and wont take a Colt. There are 3-4 plunge bases out that will fit laminate trimmers like the Colt, but none of them are cheap. MicroFence probably has the best one. I know there's a more recent lam trimmer that comes with a plunge base but dont recall the name. Here's the plunge bases I have links for:

http://microfence.com/portable-threeaxis-mill-p-29.html

http://www.alliedlutherie.com/routerbases.htm

http://www.lmii.com/CartTwo/thirdpro...6+Router+Bases

[Mike Henderson]

The Dremel is smaller easier to control for doing stringing on narrow legs and such. A small router will work though.

Tony Joyce

I agree that the Dremel is easier to control. I have both a Dremel and a Colt and I use both of them.

The "disadvantage" of the Dremel is that the attachments are not well made. The edge guide (or circle guide), for example, does not adjust quickly or easily nor stay in place well - but it will work.

I have a MicroFence attachment for the Colt so when I want real accuracy and adjustment, I use the Colt and the MicroFence.

But if I could only have one for doing inlay, I'd get the Dremel because it's easier to handle and you can get by with the attachments.

Mike

[added note - a lot of the really small router bits only come in 1/8" shank which is what the Dremel uses. To put them in the Colt, you have to get a sleeve adapter (the Colt has a 1/4" collet)]

[Doug Shepard]

Mike
Microfence also sells a couple of adapter pieces for the plunge base that will allow you to use the Dremel but maybe you were already aware of it. Just an option for small shank bits without the sleeve or heavier weight of the lam trimmer, although the base would still be larger than the StewMac type,

[Tony Joyce]

I must admit I've not used either one for cutting or excavating for inlays. I cut and tape my faces together then laminate to the substrate(example below). I'm thinking that for Federal style legs I'll do handwork for stringing and bellflowers.

Tony Joyce


VeneerFaces 001a.jpg Temp1 021.jpg 012507 013.jpg

[Jack Camillo]

I almost forgot, here is a excellent online video on string inlaying. Mostly handtools!

http://woodtreks.com/making-and-appl...ing-inlay/477/

Tony Joyce

Thanks for posting this link.
jack

[Eric Brown]

While all the information posted so far has been very helpful, several questions still linger.

1. Are the only hand tool choices L-N or make your own?
2. In the one video, they used holly for the stringing. What other woods work well and which woods to avoid?
3. What about brass inlay. Is it done the same way?
(I know, I know, DON'T HANDPLANE BRASS!)
4. Is there a general rule as to how tight a curve can be?
Obviously thickness matters, but are there secrets to it. Steam bending perhaps?
5. What else besides wood or brass works well for the stringing?

Thanks for all replies. Eric

P.S. Happy Holidays!

[Mike Henderson]

Mike
Microfence also sells a couple of adapter pieces for the plunge base that will allow you to use the Dremel but maybe you were already aware of it. Just an option for small shank bits without the sleeve or heavier weight of the lam trimmer, although the base would still be larger than the StewMac type,

I didn't know that, Doug. I'll go check theit web site. Thanks for posting that.

I don't own the MicroFence plunge base for the colt - I just have that replacement baseplate that has the interface to the regular (I think it's the type A) router connection. But it's a fixed base. I do mostly veneer rather than inaly (Dewey is the expert on inlay) so I don't have a lot of inlay tools, equipment or experience.

Tony - that's some nice veneer work - fine work, detailed and well done.

Mike

[Tony Joyce]

Eric,
"1. Are the only hand tool choices L-N or make your own?"

As far as I know, yes.

"2. In the one video, they used holly for the stringing. What other woods work well and which woods to avoid?"

For stringing the holly is used because it does not typically take stains that were used on mahogany & cherry(chemicals) in times past and it is one of the whitest woods available. Also it is tight grained and bends well with heat. Most any wood can be used, each will have its own advantages and faults.

"3. What about brass inlay. Is it done the same way?"

I have no experience here, but from what I've read yes.

"4. Is there a general rule as to how tight a curve can be?"

Limited only by the wood's ability to be bent or it could be cut. So no. I have seen Steve Latta bend some very tight radius with a small soldering iron(dampen the wood first) and a strip of feeler gauge as a backer.

"5. What else besides wood or brass works well for the stringing?"

Many types of materials have and can be used ie: mother of pearl, celluloid, epoxy, etc.

Tony Joyce

Mike,
Thanks, those were done for practice after reading The Marquetry Course and before seeing Steve Latta work his magic. He makes it look so easy, but then I remember how much experience he has. As with all things technique first and speed will then come later with practice. I did about 25 of those in various woods, partly for the exercise and partly to get some ideas as to what looked good together. They were about 12" X 16" so I was able to sell several of them at the auction site.

[Dewey Torres]

1. Are the only hand tool choices L-N or make your own? For federal string work to the best of my knowledge, yes those are the only 2 choices.

2. In the one video, they used holly for the stringing. What other woods work well and which woods to avoid? For stringing, holly is used for 3 reasons 1) its white color,2) its flexibility,3) and its uniform grain. You can use other woods of course. I would avoid ebony for string work as it is very brittle and expensive. If you get dyed wood for black color you will save your self a lot of headaches.

3. What about brass inlay. Is it done the same way? Yes, brass is done the same way but you want it to be as close to flush as you can get it with any metal as they take plenty of work to flush up. I usually sand non ferric metals. It takes a while and they chew up sandpaper. I have a tutorial coming out soon which will show how to do this with copper. I am posting a sneak peek though and you can see the finished product in my album by clicking on my name.

4. Is there a general rule as to how tight a curve can be?
Obviously thickness matters, but are there secrets to it. Steam bending perhaps? If you watch the Latta video he shows how to heat bend the stringing for very tight radii. He uses a Mohawk tool with no moisture applied.

5. What else besides wood or brass works well for the stringing? Well, depending on your tastes I will tell you that you can inlay just about anything. Turquoise comes to mind but it would have to be very fine to put into a string channel. Pic shows how I did it with a much wider channel. In this example, you would not want use it for a federal leg of course.

I have to say, if you are doing federal work, try sticking to traditional materials. When you design your own project or want to embellish a bland project, then you can get cute and use experimental materials.

[Mike Henderson]

Tony - I'd very much appreciate if you would post pictures of some more of your work. I'd really like to see what you have done - so I can learn from it (I'm always looking for ideas, patterns and designs.

Mike

[I have "The Marquetry Course" and have used it for ideas, also.]

[Tony Joyce]

Dewey,

You're right about buying the black veneer, far simpler and cheaper than trying to make it. I could have bought alot of veneer for the time and money I spend experimenting and still not getting satisfactory results.

" If you watch the Latta video he shows how to heat bend the stringing for very tight radii. He uses a Mohawk tool with no moisture applied."

I've not seen the video, but this summer when Steve was bending some holly for a SAPFM seminar he wet his fingers and wiped the holly first. I remember some comment being made about it, but don't recall what. This evidentially would be something that's open for experimentation I guess. I believe you're right about the heat source. I was thinking it was a soldering iron he had modified, but in retrospect a soldering iron probably gets too hot and I think it was adjustable.

Tony Joyce

[Wendell Wilkerson]

I was thinking it was a soldering iron he had modified, but in retrospect a soldering iron probably gets too hot and I think it was adjustable.

Tony Joyce

You both are probably right. I just watched the scene in the Woodwright's Shop episode where Steve did the berries and stringing and he used a soldering iron and feeler gauges. I bet he has changed/upgraded his toolkit since the show. Also, in the video he specifically says no added moisture while bending the stringing to avoid swelling.

Wendell

[Mike Henderson]

Some time back, I bought some small downcut router bits to use for inlay. Then I forgot where I had bought them.

I just found them again and wanted to pass on the source. It was Drill Bit City, but only in their Yahoo store.

The bits are a tad on the expensive side (6 for $30) but they've worked well for me. They're 1/8" shank which fits the Dremel but you'd need an sleeve adapter to use them on a laminate trimmer.

They also carry upcut bits and those are a bit less expensive.

Mike

[Doug Shepard]

...
The bits are a tad on the expensive side (6 for $30) but they've worked well for me. They're 1/8" shank which fits the Dremel but you'd need an sleeve adapter to use them on a laminate trimmer.
...

Still way cheaper than the only other place I've seen them
http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Tools/Sp...uter_Bits.html

Thanks for the tip