Wiring question (Help please!!!)

[Dan Cobian]

Another request for help. Please point me to another thread if there is one that addresses this (I looked for almost 2.5 hours for one). I received my Christmas present, a used 46-450 Delta lathe with 220 V/ 3-Phase / 1 HP motor.




I decided to replace the motor with a 110 V / single phase / 1.5 HP motor for a variety of reasons:

1) Military and I move around a lot (can’t run 220 V everywhere I go)
2) Unknown condition of existing 3-phase motor (probably has 30 years on it)
3) Upgraded from 1 HP to 1.5 HP (which I got a great deal on) cost less than a VFD
4) Understood that a VFD costs me 15% (.85 x 1 HP= .85 HP)

The motor I replaced is:




I purchased the following motor (see data plate) that has been wired by the motor shop for 110V CW rotation:


Part 2 will be next post.

[Dan Cobian]

(Cont)

The concern I have is the wiring of the new motor (110 V / single phase) to the existing panels and switch. This picture reflects the panel that is between the switch and the motor (I have no idea what it is and I hope to not have to mess with it):

Panel.jpg

Close up of top half:

Panel top half.jpg

Close up of bottom half:

Panel bottom half.jpg

Switch:


Switch.jpg

[Dan Cobian]

Unknown “switch” (resettable?) between switch (above) and panel.

Unkown switch or trip.jpg

Wires from panel going to motor:

Wires coming from swith through panel.jpg




Can I just “dead-end” the red and leave the rest of the system wired as it is? Is there something I’m missing? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Can’t wait to get this up and running...

[Sonny Edmonds]

Well, um, uh, what was your question?
Long as it will mount up, and the rotation is correct, it ought to work fine.

Edit in:
Oh, you weren't done posting.
No, that is the overload and reversing contactor assymbly. You can't use it with your new motor. It is intended for 3 phase use.
You need a simple on off switch.

[Dan Cobian]

Sonny,

Thanks- so I just replace the existing switch, bypass that panel and the resettable switch (not sure what it is) and go straight from the power supply (110 v outlet) thtough the new switch, to the motor?

-Dan

[David Christopher]

all you need to do is dead end the red wire take the white wire strait to L1 on the motor put the black wire to one leg of a switch, other side of switch to L2 and the green wire is a equipment ground it will go to the body of the lathe

[David Christopher]

thats it, and then you will be on your wat to making something round

[Dan Cobian]

I am 95% sure I understand- I will try tomorrow morning. Can you please look at this post tomoorw morning? I'll let you know either way how it goes. Thank you very, very, much.

-Dan

[Rick Fisher]

That's a nice motor your replacing it with. Heavy duty spec's compared to the origional motor.
Are you supposed to make sure the switch is rated for the amperage?

[Alan Schaffter]

That looks like an old starter/contactor. The parts labeled E38 are the heaters for the over-current cutoff (one for each phase). Depending on the input rating of the transformer (likely under fiber cover at the top) you might be able to use it as is with minor rewiring. But you will need to know what your are doing. You can also bypass it completely with an appropriately rated switch or self-contained contactor.

[Dan Cobian]

That looks like an old starter/contactor. The parts labeled E38 are the heaters for the over-current cutoff (one for each phase). Depending on the input rating of the transformer (likely under fiber cover at the top) you might be able to use it as is with minor rewiring. But you will need to know what your are doing. You can also bypass it completely with an appropriately rated switch or self-contained contactor.

Alan,

Thanks for the feedback. I'm thjinking of just bypassing all of this and just wiring a new switch all together. Thoughts on this? Anything I lose out on?

-Dan

[Dan Cobian]

That looks like an old starter/contactor. The parts labeled E38 are the heaters for the over-current cutoff (one for each phase). Depending on the input rating of the transformer (likely under fiber cover at the top) you might be able to use it as is with minor rewiring. But you will need to know what your are doing. You can also bypass it completely with an appropriately rated switch or self-contained contactor.

Alan,

Also, can you tell me what an appropriately rated switch would be? Is it something I can buy at a home improvement store?

[Dan Cobian]

Can anyone tell me what I would have to do to make this reversible? Is it worth it?

[Rollie Meyers]

If you want to make it reversable a VFD would have been a simple choice, but since you bought a 1Ø motor your next choice is a reversing drum switch is your next choice & since your new motor is thermally protected you also could bypass the OEM contactor/ overload relay & use the drum switch to start/stop the motor BTW it is not a reversing contactor assy.

Your "unknown switch" is a safety interlock that was rendered inoperable,if you look closely you'll prob. find it was set up to shut the machine down if the door was opened.

Hubbell Inc. now has the Furnas Electric drum controller line & here is a link to the Hubbell catalog.

http://www.hubbell-icd.com/icd/drum/...ontrollers.pdf

[Dan Cobian]

If you want to make it reversable a VFD would have been a simple choice, but since you bought a 1Ø motor your next choice is a reversing drum switch is your next choice & since your new motor is thermally protected you also could bypass the OEM contactor/ overload relay & use the drum switch to start/stop the motor BTW it is not a reversing contactor assy.

Your "unknown switch" is a safety interlock that was rendered inoperable,if you look closely you'll prob. find it was set up to shut the machine down if the door was opened.

Hubbell Inc. now has the Furnas Electric drum controller line & here is a link to the Hubbell catalog.

http://www.hubbell-icd.com/icd/drum/...ontrollers.pdf

Rollie,

Thanks for the info- I'll be "streamlining" the wiring in the lathe this weekend.

-Dan