What is the "shorter fence"? Link?
Regards from Perth
Derek
when ripping narrow pieces with outrigger on, I lock the slider and simply angle the fence away from the blade so material can move past it. For wider boards I remove the fence and outrigger, partly because of my narrow space, but so I can walk around to back of the saw without the obstruction of fence and outrigger. There is one small issue I have with the cast tables short depth, control of narrow boards at front and boards falling off back of the saw. I believe there is an outfeed extension table available.
Joel, you never use an F&F jig?
Fedde, do you have an arrangement to square the stop to the blade when it is mounted to the table or do you manually do that each time. A photo of your stop would be nice.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=--M-Iz2pw1k
Derek, the short and long fences being referred to are supplied with the saw depending on how it is configured at purchase and there is an extension you can buy for both that slides into the parent fence so as to not make the fence any longer if it is not in use. The short fence is what you have and is fitted when the outrigger is not ordered, the long fence comes with the outrigger. I have both because I retrofitted the out rigger.
Chris
Everything I like is either illegal, immoral or fattening
The original, lousy video and German audio but you will get the idea https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DqzVglze9Nk
Steve Rowe from here showing his version https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q0PyFjtSHrE
Chris
Everything I like is either illegal, immoral or fattening
You can see the jig I built some time ago. Worked great. I have since sold my slider but am going to buy another one soon and will build the same thing. Maybe some slight improvements but all in all it worked well: http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...62#post2058362
Thanks
Regards from Perth
Derek
Sorry, missed your post (I have to get used to this non-chronologic forum).
I don't have the Hammer yet, but what I think is that when you make the Fritz und Franz jig you make a squaring rail on the jig it self, which slides into the T-groove of the sliding table. But that is only an assumption!
That is correct but the front of the jig must clamp to the table or rest against something that is and usually that is the crosscut fence for simplicity as most of these saws have the outrigger and the fence at the front. Mine didn't as I ordered it without the outrigger and it was supplied with the fence at the operator end of the table as Derek's is. I found that the rail itself did not prevent movement of the jig and needed to rest against the fence to remain square to the blade. The slot does not have parallel sides as a cabinet saw has, the top opening is narrower than the slot under it.
Chris
Everything I like is either illegal, immoral or fattening
<p>
A slider not only requires stroke space, but space to both the right and especially the left of the saw blade. A common cut is to remove a small amount from the end of an 8 foot sheet good, and that requires almost 8 feet to the left of the blade. For reasons not worth describing here, I normally have just 86 inches and it is a real source of irritation. My machine is big enough to where it is not easily moved, hence a track saw is indispensable. If the saw can be moved to a position where it accomodates such a cut, that would be a good thing.</p>
"the mechanic that would perfect his work must first sharpen his tools.” Confucius
The in and out feed space for any board cut on a slider or on a cabinet saw does not change, the size of the board defines the space needed.
Chris
Everything I like is either illegal, immoral or fattening