what would be the best way to spend $300?

[Brian Sommers]

I am a newbie hybrid...
I have my table saw up for sale. I had two cases of kickback using my cross cut sled. Thankfully nothing became airborne, but I did get the sled jammed back at me VERY QUICKLY. Now I'm spooked! I haven't used my TS since and besides I don't have the room for one anyway. I'd rather have space and be able to walk around the shop without bumping into everything.

I have a good used Jack plane I finally got tweaked and set up as a roughing plane.

I was going to get a nice Lee Valley LA Jack PM-V11

I have two bit braces and my two handsaws. I do use my band saw and circular saw for some rough cutting.

I made a bench and drilled my dog holes, I don't have any bench dogs yet, but will either buy them or make some.

I made a bench hook yesterday and plan on making a shooting board today.

I have some chisels, used ones that I restored and they work well.

I'm ready to actually make something. I want to make boxes. I keep hearing (youtube) and reading (forums/blogs) that box making is good because it will teach you joinery skills.

I have lots of rough stock of some nice wood, maple, oak, walnut, cherry, etc.

Do you flatten and true up pieces first then cut the exact size you need? or rough cut the size then true up?

Or should I just start working a project and see what turns up that I need but don't have?

I do have a dewalt lunchbox planer, would using my jack as a roughing plane flatten that out enough to run it through my planer? Or should I use a smoothing plane before I run it through my planer?

The more I get into hand tools the more I want to do hand tools. I'm really loving it. I had bought a Dewalt 2-1/4hp router and its still new in the box, haven't even touched it yet.

I have a mini lathe, I do want to get into some pen turning and a nice Delta scroll saw. I've used a little.

What else would I need to make nice boxes? Should I get the LV LA Jack? or something else? or hang off?

[Bill Houghton]

Do you flatten and true up pieces first then cut the exact size you need? or rough cut the size then true up?

It depends. If the stock is really warped, it's sometimes better to rough cut, then true up; otherwise, you can wind up with really really thin pieces of wood. If it's pretty close to flat, rough cutting to a size that accommodates as many box parts as possible, then truing that, then cutting the size, works better. And remember, when you're cutting to size, that you need a little extra to true/smooth up your cuts.

Or should I just start working a project and see what turns up that I need but don't have?

In general, yes, but a couple of comments:

You will rapidly find that you need a plane for making the work smooth, since you've set up your jack plane as a roughing plane (it is possible to use a jack plane for smoothing by getting another iron that you grind for smoothing work, and switching it in as needed).

You don't mention layout tools. A good square is vital. I'd be hard pressed to do hand work like you describe without a marking gauge, but some people get by with a combo square and a marking knife (which needn't be a high end knife; an Xacto knife serves quite well).

I can't imagine making small work like boxes without a block plane.

But, if you're not in a hurry, and it sounds like you're not, waiting to see where your need-a-tool frustrations arise and buying from there makes sense.

[Prashun Patel]

Personally, I would not throw the table saw out with the bathwater yet. Analyze why you kicked back, and seek to avoid that situation again. For me, the table saw is a 'sometimes food' (to mangle a Cookie Monster phrase). I don't use it for thin or small cuts, or for ripping thick stock. But for a lot of other operations it's fast and versatile.

I wouldn't buy any tools yet. Build a couple boxes with what you have.

More important than joinery techniques, boxes teach you about 'square' and 'flat'. These are deceptively deep concepts (as are 'sharp' and 'smooth').

Put your $300 in an envelope and buy something in a couple months when you've built a couple boxes. Personally, if you already have a jack plane, and want to smooth smaller boxes, I'd be looking into a #4 or #3 plane.

[george wilson]

Wine,women and song!!! Stop being a fuddy-duddy!!

[Malcolm McLeod]

Wine,women and song!!! Stop being a fuddy-duddy!!

^^Will lead to hangovers, heartbreak, and hoarseness. Tools are merely entry to the whirlwind.

Send the money to me. I'll save you!

...Or get a good block plane.

[lowell holmes]

Big routers (I have two) scare me a lot more than a table saw.

I can't imagine suffering a kick back making a cross cut.

When using any power tool, position your body so that a kick back can't get you.
I have a canvas apron (Lee Valley) that I wear when at the saw. There are two layers of canvass protecting my chest area.

Sharp chisels slipping during a paring cut will leave a large cut. Don't ask me how I know.

Safety glass are required in my shop period. Doesn't matter whether using hand or power tools. You probably will not suffer eye injuries using hand tools, but the habit of wearing eye protection is important.

[Jeffrey Martel]

Not related to the hand tools aspect, but check your alignment of the blade with the miter slots. That's likely the cause of your kickback. That, or you have a concave bow in your fence.

Buy tools as needed. But you are going to want a small smoothing plane. #3 or #4 size. And some card scrapers as well.

Regarding the planer, just use hand planes to get it flat enough on one side, and send it through. It only needs to be flat enough to not rock and to not have a bow in it. That will true up the other side. Once that side is trued, flip it over and go over your rough hand planed side. Easy peasy.

[Jim Koepke]

I was going to get a nice Lee Valley LA Jack PM-V11

This is a great plane for many uses. I like my LA Jack for shooting end grain.

Do you flatten and true up pieces first then cut the exact size you need? or rough cut the size then true up?

A bit of both, it depends on the wood and the project.

Or should I just start working a project and see what turns up that I need but don't have?

This is a very good approach. Everyone loves to spend someone else's money. Without being in your shop or your position we could suggest everything from block planes (a great and useful tool) to water stones. Often before starting a project the how to do it flows through my mind. The tools that will be needed can be checked for readiness or bought if something not already in my shop is needed. Of course all of this can change as the project gets going.

I do have a dewalt lunchbox planer, would using my jack as a roughing plane flatten that out enough to run it through my planer? Or should I use a smoothing plane before I run it through my planer?

Jack first, power planer then a smoothing plane if needed.

I have a good used Jack plane I finally got tweaked and set up as a roughing plane.

This also caught my attention. One of my enjoyments is fettling (messing with) old tools. If this is also something you enjoy a lot of old tools can be purchased for a lot less than springing for new tools. Just be aware that there will be a few duds when this route is taken. Most of my duds either limp along doing well or they have become inventory in my parts accumulation.

There are good used block planes available, but it is one of the things that I found it easier to just bite the bullet and by a new model. If you are fussy about fit, finish and quality of machining you will likely be happier with new tools. There are not as many new tools in my shop as there are tools that are new to me ready to be new again for a future generation.

jtk

[Brian Sommers]

Thanks all. I think I will go back to my old hand tool store and pick up a #4 and have the "guy" set it up and everything for me at first. It's an extra $30 but that and the cost of the plane would be a far cry from $300. I did pick up a nice little block plane that I really like and works well. I forgot to mention that I have a very good square, the Incra 7" and the Lee Valley little 4" square and a good marking knife and marking tools, so I'm good there.

I have to admit, maybe I will keep my table saw. I know what I did that caused the kickback and I was trying to cut a very long 2x6 on my sled and I didn't have it supported so as it cut it began to fall off the end causing it to pinch and throw everything back at me. Still, it put the fear in me good and proper!

I have the gripper which I use about all the time for smaller stuff but what I don't like about it when I'm done my arm is hanging over the saw blade. If I only use my table saw for only the larger stuff and for main ripping. Looking back from now on any long stock will just get cut with my circular saw or my cheap Stanley Fat Max. I have the guard on my TS with the little kickback claws on in the back.

My wife leaves in the morning and I'm all by myself all day long and if something would really bad happen I'd have a hard time getting help.

[Brian Sommers]

...but it is one of the things that I found it easier to just bite the bullet and by a new model. If you are fussy about fit, finish and quality of machining you will likely be happier with new tools. There are not as many new tools in my shop as there are tools that are new to me ready to be new again for a future generation.

jtk

You got this post in before I could finish up my other reply.
But, this is exactly where I'm at. I keep thinking it would be awesome to experience a really nice tool, brand new.

[Jim Koepke]

My wife leaves in the morning and I'm all by myself all day long and if something would really bad happen I'd have a hard time getting help.

Any neighbors? Maybe an easy to reach extension phone in the shop.

Do you have marking gauges?

My Tite-Mark® is one of my most used tools:

http://www.glen-drake.com/Tite-Marks/

I have a few other marking gauges when multiple settings are needed on a project. Old Stanley gauges are often available for $10-$20.

jtk

[Jim Koepke]

You got this post in before I could finish up my other reply.
But, this is exactly where I'm at. I keep thinking it would be awesome to experience a really nice tool, brand new.

That is what the woodworking shows and tool events are all about.

I do not know your location, but Lie-Nielsen and Lee Valley often have events where folks can try out their tools.

My 100 year old tools can hold their own when it comes to quality of work. A new plane usually has less play in the mechanics of adjustment. Plus they are impressively shiny on the shelf.

jtk

[Prashun Patel]

"I keep thinking it would be awesome to experience a really nice tool, brand new."

I'm goo-goo for bling-bling as well, but at the risk of being glib, it's the wrong reason to buy a tool.

I've seen it a lot here. When people ask 'what should i buy?' it's inevitably (to me) a sign that they shouldn't buy anything. When it's time to buy, you'll know what to buy.

[Brian Sommers]

wow! Those look stunning and have a price tag to match.

I have this: http://www.leevalley.com/US/Wood/pag...44&cat=1,42936
and this: http://www.leevalley.com/US/Wood/pag...55&cat=1,42936 the imperial standard, I wish I would have bought the micro adjust, but so far I'm surviving.

[Jim Koepke]

EDIT

When people ask 'what should i buy?' it's inevitably (to me) a sign that they shouldn't buy anything. When it's time to buy, you'll know what to buy.

Wise words that can save a lot of money over time.

jtk