Table Saw

[Stephen Edwards]

Got all the parts home and got started. When I went back in to get the last few nuts (the ones that were left out the second time) I mentioned a discount per Scott's advice. I got another 10% off. So 499 saw at 20% off works for me!

Everything is done up to the point of lifting the cabinet onto the leg stand. My wife and I cannot do this, and my neighbor is not home, so as soon as I get that piece done the rest of the assembly should be done in no time. I cant wait to try it out! My wife already caught me shopping for jointers and planers...LOL...she quickly closed the lid on my laptop and reminded me of my promise that her new comforter and sheets were next...

Well done, Bob! Scott's suggestion turned out to be a winner for you. Ain't SMC great?!

You might consider telling your wife that your having saved so much money on the saw should "comfort 'er" and be sure to thank her for suggesting to you that you get some sheets to cover your new saw when not in use.

[Bob Haskett]

You might consider telling your wife that your having saved so much money on the saw should "comfort 'er" and be sure to thank her for suggesting to you that you get some sheets to cover your new saw when not in use.

Classic!

My neighbor is out of town until sunday, so I took the top off and did it myself. I am at the point where I need to put on the wings and rails now, will do that piece tomorrow.

[Greg Peterson]

Congrats on the saw. I too recently bought an R4511.

You will want to read up on aligning the table top. There is a great thread over at Ridgid on this process. A dial indicator (Harbor Freight Tools) and a little patience will reward you. Getting the blade parallel is pretty straight forward. Getting it parallel at 45 degrees requires some work.

I had a Delta T2 fence on an old craftsman contractor saw that required little effort to retro fit onto the Ridgid.

[Christopher Morgan]

I had a Delta T2 fence on an old craftsman contractor saw that required little effort to retro fit onto the Ridgid.

Care to tell us what a bit more about the little effort involved, Greg? Was it simply a matter of drilling new holes in the brackets that support the rail? Or was there more to it than that?

I am thinking through upgrading the stock fence, and the options I am considering range from just replacing the front rail up to installing an Incra system. The T2 falls right in the middle of that range. I think I remember reading about someone having to shim the rail to make it align correctly on the R4511, and that put me off a bit, but if the installation isn't too bad, it is certainly a contender.

[Van Huskey]

Blade selection was mentioned and handled quite well but I will toss my two cents in.

First, I am somewhat of a blade "prostitute" I just slipped out to the shop and I have over 40 blades, each different and just about a complete coverage of the Freud Industrial line and the Forrest line. These are the only two I use and although there are other fine blades out there I have never had a dud from either. I have always been a horses for courses kind of guy and used to use a different blade for just about every cut and material until recently, the Forrest WWII (wood worker 2) and Frued P410 (my fav) have changed my mind, I use these for 90% of my cuts rip/cross/ply because the ATB grind is just so good it works well for all of them. Only when I have a lot of heavy ripping or I am breaking down a lot of ply do I bother with another blade (excepting the odd solid surface or metal cut). Both of these blades will set you back about $100 but are worth it and can be sharpened several times, in a hobby shop a pair (one to use while one is sharpened) could last you many years.

The only thing I think Scott missed was the kerf width, given the 4511 isn't a 3+ HP cabinet monster a thin kerf blade would be your friend. This knocks out the Frued P410 (std kerf only) but Forrest has a thin kerf WWII. If you prefer not to spend $100 for a blade then my next fav combo blade is the Frued LU88, it is a TK (thin kerf) crosscut blade but it does remarkably well at ripping most stock. It has a list about $75 but Amazon has it for $55 free shipping (was $40 earlier yesterday for about an hour). My advice is grab this blade use it and pick up a dedicated rip blade if/when you feel the need for one. Keep the Ridgid blade for construction lumber et al.

Remember the best table saw in the world will do a poor job with a poor blade.

Congrats on the purchase, the 4511 is what I consider a best buy in its price range and your price was excellent. Don't forget to register it for the lifetime service agreement (warranty) just makes a great deal even sweeter.

Also spend some time and tune the saw, there are some great videos floating around on youtube and elsewhere about this. Many will show you ways to tune without any test equipment and in the end even when I tune a saw within an inch of its life with plates, dial indicators, jigs and etc dynamic testing is still the proof of the pudding. If you have trouble finding a good video PM me as I am not completely sure of the direct link rules here.


Finally, as to the SAF (spousal acceptance factor) build your wife a piece of "wife-centric" furniture, you will soon have a backlog of "orders" from your wife for all manner of furniture and from experience each will require a new machine or tool, you will have a planer/jointer/router table/band saw and dust collector sooner than you ever imagined and your wife will be your greatest muse/patron, plus you will have a house full of your custom stuff that costs a lot less than Rooms to Go et al. I used this method to literally quintuple my new table saw budget at HER insistence (yes you read that right) and I was told in no uncertain terms SHE wanted (demanded) a full Incra setup (fence, router wing and positioner) for HER birthday to go on the saw so I can build some intricate exposed joinery pieces she has dreamed up. My one error in this regard is showing her a Maloof rocker never expecting her to "need" one since it is not her style, that one is gonna cost me a lot of time and effort in a direction I had never planned to go, but it may take me years to find just the right wood... thats my story and I am sticking to it.

Now quite reading my drivel and go make some sawdust!

[Chris Harry]

Classic!

My neighbor is out of town until sunday, so I took the top off and did it myself. I am at the point where I need to put on the wings and rails now, will do that piece tomorrow.

Taking the top off was a good idea anyway....in the mass of 4511 threads on Ridgid forum, someone explained in perfect detail how to make sure the top is "perfectly perpendicular" to the blade at a 45 degree bevel. It involves at least loosening the screws for the top and shimming so that the front of the blade and the back of the blade are on the same exact plane when the blade is tilted, otherwise you get bad 45 degree cuts.

Thats what the silver shims under each corner of the top were for. Hopefully you kept them in the same spots. If not, no biggie, you'll just have to shuffle them around if you follow the alignment instructions

[Cliff Holmes]

I have over 40 blades

You, my friend, need help

[Van Huskey]

You, my friend, need help

It is actually worse, I gave up counting and didn't even look at the dedicated SCMS blades, dado, box joint and any of the junk I use for green and construction type lumber. The real number is probably over 60. It just hit me that I have more money in blades than the PM2000 I am waiting to be delivered... I see now, I indeed do need help!

[scott spencer]

...I have over 40 blades...

You, my friend, need help

I think Van deserves a medal!

"Sharpest Blade in the Drawer" award!

[Bob Haskett]

Thats what the silver shims under each corner of the top were for. Hopefully you kept them in the same spots. If not, no biggie, you'll just have to shuffle them around if you follow the alignment instructions

Well, I actually didnt know they were there, when I pulled the top off they were all stuck to the granite and fell off and rolled around and got mixed up on my garage floor. I have no idea what went where. When I put the top back on, I did move them around to keep the top from rocking, not sure if that is correct or not. I guess I should have read further for alignment instructions.... DOH!

Do you happen to know where that post is?

[Chris Harry]

Well, I actually didnt know they were there, when I pulled the top off they were all stuck to the granite and fell off and rolled around and got mixed up on my garage floor. I have no idea what went where. When I put the top back on, I did move them around to keep the top from rocking, not sure if that is correct or not. I guess I should have read further for alignment instructions.... DOH!

Do you happen to know where that post is?

This will help: http://www.ridgidforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=25836

Not sure if you need to be registered to get the PDF, but thats what you'll need. And, mine was slightly off from the factory anyway, so its probably best to do it regardless of where the shims ended up

[Bob Haskett]

This will help: http://www.ridgidforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=25836

Not sure if you need to be registered to get the PDF, but thats what you'll need. And, mine was slightly off from the factory anyway, so its probably best to do it regardless of where the shims ended up

Great thanks! I actually registered yesterday when I had my missing pieces debacle.

[Bob Haskett]

This will help: http://www.ridgidforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=25836

Not sure if you need to be registered to get the PDF, but thats what you'll need. And, mine was slightly off from the factory anyway, so its probably best to do it regardless of where the shims ended up

So after putting it all together, aligning the top, aligning the fence, and checking the blade so that is perfectly perpendicular, is there anything else I need to do before I slice and dice? I have found some info on these things over at the R4511 forum so I should be good to go if that is all I need to do, only thing that stinks is the tools I need to do it are going to be about $150. Is there a cheaper way?

[scott spencer]

So after putting it all together, aligning the top, aligning the fence, and checking the blade so that is perfectly perpendicular, is there anything else I need to do before I slice and dice? I have found some info on these things over at the R4511 forum so I should be good to go if that is all I need to do, only thing that stinks is the tools I need to do it are going to be about $150. Is there a cheaper way?

5¢ Table Saw Alignment An inexpensive Harbor Freight dial indicator can be helpful, but isn't really necessary.

[Paul Johnstone]

Only thing bad there is I do not have 220v available.

If you have an open slot on your breaker box, it's relatively easy, inexpensive and safe to DIY another 220v outlet.