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Thread: Stupid clamping tricks for eight sided columns?

  1. #1
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    Stupid clamping tricks for eight sided columns?

    I am making some 8", 8 sided columns out of makore. The machining is perfect, they will stand there just slipped together and all the joints are perfect, and they are all splined so I don't have to worry about alignment. Couple of wraps of shrink wrap around them dry and they fit awesome.

    Then I have to glue them.......

    I wet the surfaces down with a wet rag to give myself more time, and went for it with Titebond II. Two of the opposing joints are not glued as they have to come back apart for some additional machining on the inside. Ratchet straps are not an option, this is for a $7K table and can have no marks. I used 3/8 surgical tubing in with three stretched wraps in five places and clamps on the ends to help.

    The problem is coming from the glue starting to set on the first pieces I glue up before I can get the rest of them glued. I had my splines pre-glued into every other piece so I did not have to mess with that. I just can't get it all done fast enough working alone. I may switch to epoxy so I have unlimited open time, but that will require the first coat on the whole piece to be West System or it will show in the finish. Not a deal breaker, but a pain I was not planning on.

    I think I will make a pair of helpers with an octagon shape on the inside with a slight taper that can be tapped on the ends to get then set quickly and help to hold then. The one I just finished turned out all right but it was a battle and it could be better.

    So........ Let hear your tricks to make this go more smoothly. This is something I have always struggled with.

  2. #2
    I had success with laying all the pieces face down on strips of packing tape, adding glue to one edge of each joint and rolling the piece up as one and then adding more tape around the whole column, pulling tightly

    Did this with spanish cedar on a column for a boat table and there is not a single gap..
    Probably got a little lucky
    Last edited by William Nimmo; 02-20-2015 at 5:28 PM.

  3. #3
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    Get Titebond Extend. Get a longer set glue...

  4. #4
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    Use III or epoxy. I hate hate HATE glue ups. All my stuff fits beautifully and tight and then I do something stupid like add glue to the joint. Ugh.

    Anyway, III has a longer open time although it may still not be enough for your situation. In that case, 30 minute epoxy is your friend.

    I gave up on II when III came out for the longer open time. When I need a short open time, I go to I or their Molding and Trim glue, which is nice and thick, doesn't run, and sets in 60 seconds.

    Bicycle inner tubes are also good clamps. Strap clamps may help. Special cauls as you alluded to may also help.

    OR don't glue up the whole thing at once. Glue part of it but put it all together and clamp as if you did glue the whole thing.
    Last edited by Chris Padilla; 02-20-2015 at 5:45 PM.
    Wood: a fickle medium....

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  5. #5
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    I would use TB III and put glue in only half the parts, but assemble the whole thing. When that half has dried take it apart and add glue to the rest of the parts.

    OR

    Use liquid hide glue and glue it all up at once.

    John

  6. #6
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    I have done a bunch just like William described. You don't need to use a spline because it is long-grain joint just like edge gluing and if the miners are good it will self align as you tighten the tape or tubing or whatever you use.
    Quote Originally Posted by William Nimmo View Post
    I had success with laying all the pieces face down on strips of packing tape, adding glue to one edge of each joint and rolling the piece up as one and then adding more tape around the whole column, pulling tightly

    Did this with spanish cedar on a column for a boat table and there is not a single gap..
    Probably got a little lucky
    Steve Jenkins, McKinney, TX. 469 742-9694
    Always use the word "impossible" with extreme caution

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chris Padilla View Post
    OR don't glue up the whole thing at once. Glue part of it but put it all together and clamp as if you did glue the whole thing.
    +1 on this. I was just about to post this suggestion but saw Chris' post just in time.
    Brett
    Peters Creek, Alaska

    Man is a tool-using animal. Nowhere do you find him without tools; without tools he is nothing, with tools he is all. — Thomas Carlyle (1795-1881)

  8. #8
    I have done only projects of that type that would be subsequently turned. Used nylon ratchet straps and Titebond 2, I don't think the straps left any marks. Did have at least "please drop what you are doing .." emergency help. If the glue set
    is main trouble ,I would switch to UF glue,if of course, you can make shop at least 70 degrees.

  9. #9
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    I didn't mention that tis is 1 1/8" thick figured Makore that is a bit unruly and that is part of the reason that I used splines. The other reason is that the legs cantilever out 16", pass through the columns to a shallow mortice on opposite side of the column. The top is 2 1/2" thick and extremely heavy.

    I have done the tape thing, I use metal tape, but with the splines that would not work and as I said this wood is unruly. I had it ready to go a couple of days ago but the shop temp dropped down below where I felt comfortable gluing anything up, so they moved a bit in the last couple of days. I hate Makore for this and that it tries to kill me with the dust.

    I get glue lines through the finish with TB III, don't like that. I am going to try it in sections like someone mentioned, or just switch to West System.

    Thanks a bunch gentlemen.
    Larry

  10. #10
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    The glue up some, but clamp the whole works well. I used this method to cover some lally posts in a basement. Glued each half up this way in the shop then only had two joints for final glue up in the basement.

  11. #11
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    I use the Lamello P system with a Clamex or Tenso, depending on the situation. It turns those kinds of glue ups into childs play.The fittings hold everything really tight while the glue dries, you don't have to rush to beat the glue, you can just do one joint at a time without panicking.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Larry Edgerton View Post

    The problem is coming from the glue starting to set on the first pieces I glue up before I can get the rest of them glued.
    I must be missing something? TITEBOND EXTEND?

  13. #13
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    I have done a bunch some very big ones (like this these 12 sided ones: http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...mns&highlight=).
    Working alone I found it easier to glue them in sections. Also, I get two halves complete and then take each half over the jointer to shave so ever slightly in case the angles are off and then glue the two halves.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by jack duren View Post
    I must be missing something? TITEBOND EXTEND?
    I heard you Jack.

    I read up on it last night a bit and am going to try it on the second column. I have not tried it yet but wanted to read a bit before I commented. Its a sixty mile trip to get some for me but sounds like it may be the ticket.

    Its been sub zero every morning for so long here that everything is drier than usual, and that is not helping.

    I popped the clamps on the one I did yesterday and its good, but it would be nice to be able to slow down. So stressful!

  15. #15
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    I use Titebond Extend alot,I really don't notice that much difference in open time compared to regular titebond,maybe a little bit.I personally don't find titebond extend to be any kind of a solution to complex glue ups,I just use it because it sands nice and has a more ridgid glue line.

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