Pretty much what you have to do is vaporize it pass by pass and that's how you get a decent cut.
Type: Posts; User: Kevin Gregerson; Keyword(s):
Pretty much what you have to do is vaporize it pass by pass and that's how you get a decent cut.
Kern does some excellent machines for high detail large design stuff. It really depends on the options you got with it though.
Gotta say I agree, with Dave. If you are trying to reflect it after the lens you are going to run into the hourglass convergence issue of reducing your power pretty quick. The 2.0 lens really only...
I second that!!!
Awe, thanks for the explanation.
I've seen filters of many types and I've seen a few PVC installs out there. As for home brews, not exactly something I'm advocating, I'm more or less advocating machine shop type build with the...
Yea, it's more of a thing that you need to be making a fair bit of margin on something to use it. The machine does rust, but that's not a big deal. It's more about the electronics that it eats up...
Hi Keith, you can go one of two ways. You can use the tapper edge effect of moving the lens closer by .1 inches and bumping up the power that should give you a few more degrees of tilt to work...
From a little of my experience and the experience of others who sold in this market, glass tubes in the above 100w market tend to be overrated. Where the metal ones that say 150 will output 150-170w...
Fact is that you will run into this time and time again with different customers and you simply just learn to stop doing business with them. This is why I'm a fan of a prototype first then make them...
Not that I really recommend it, but I've ran across it before. Pretty much requires rebuilding the inside of the laser chamber annually and shortens the life of the main frame of equipment from a...
Sounds like you are just looking for an excuse to talk to her. :P
In all reality, it depends on how permanent she wants it stuck to the piece of wood. There is an entire section of adhesives...
Depending on the size, look at purlator serv-a-pak filters. Just remember what you measure isn't the exact size. 11.2 inches is the nominal for 12 inches. 23.5 is the nominal for 24.
If you are looking for wood. www.laserjumpstart.com I think sells a fair bit of wood material. I usually go to local lumberyard for my stuff.
Look for a local Filtration products company. You should be able to find someone who can refill them for you with similar or better stuff. We use these guys here in the states and they are a lot...
I second ID plates, it's where we purchase everything we buy. It comes clean without any scuff marks.
Air assist and or a noble gas is your friend. Higher power helps too. I've run rosewood with good luck at 150w. But not very many folks have access to that kind of power.
Turn off computer unplug everything, restart computer, then send job out again.
Lots an lots of trial and error and it won't be very consistent from one board to another board.
Either want to run an HPDFO optic, fiber laser, or marking compound.
http://www.bofaamericas.com/productDetails.asp?pid=116
I have a preference for these.
Paying a little extra to redo them all on the laser is almost nothing in regards to cost of time and frustration.
If you do a sheet of them and make sure the cut mark for each mask is the same height from the text so you can simply just apply it to the lip and go. This lets you do it in larger sets.
We've had this on universal and trotec since I think 2000. But, yes, it's really good for when you have jobs that you regularly get orders for. It's also useful for when you change the detail...
With 35 watts yer kind of sol. If you had 50+ watts you could get away with a longer focus lens and just etch a whole table of glasses at a time on one side. I agree with the etch the base as it...