New zero clearance Insert

[Lee Schierer]

With the help of a friend at work, I was able to get a new zero clearance insert made for my craftsman 10" table saw. The insert features a replaceable wooden strip that is pretty easy to make as comapared to make the entire throat plate from wood.




The plate is made from aluminum jig plate and uses the orignal screw to mount in the table. I was able to get the plate exactly flush with the table surface. I have different wood inserts for ripping or dado cuts.

[David Wilson]

Great idea Looking good

[Byron Trantham]

Lee, nice insert. I miss my aluminum insert. I had one for my Craftsman but they don't make one for the left tilt Unisaw.

[Dave Richards]

It looks great Lee. It must be a trick of the light but it looks to me like you.ve got a phillips head screw sticking up in that first picture. Do you find that causes you any trouble?

[John Miliunas]

Nice insert BUT, I don't see a splitter or any accommodations for one! Lee, we'd like to see you continue visiting SMC with all your digits intact and without insidious bruises to your mid-section!

[Tim Sproul]

Nice insert BUT, I don't see a splitter or any accommodations for one! Lee, we'd like to see you continue visiting SMC with all your digits intact and without insidious bruises to your mid-section!

I'm sure Lee will pipe up...but some saws have the splitter as part of the blade guard rather than integral to the throat plate/insert.

[John Miliunas]

I'm sure Lee will pipe up...but some saws have the splitter as part of the blade guard rather than integral to the throat plate/insert.

Maybe so. I just hope he has *some* way of doing it, for the sake of safety! I kinda' like the members here just the way they are, particularly with extremities intact!

[Wes Bischel]

I really like mine (similar style) Though it doesn't look nearly as nice. I'll be installing a MJ splitter this weekend or so I hope. I don't see a problem with one fitting on Lee's as well.

Wes

[Lee Schierer]

No there is no accomodation for a splitter, nor do I use one.

I'm not trying to start an argument nor develope a long conversation; however, I find the theory of a splitter incompatible with correct saw operation. If the splitter is narrower than the kerf, it does no good as the blade still gets pinched if the gap closes. If it is wider than the kerf then you can't make the cut because you'll hit the splitter, so the splitter would have to be exactly the width of the kerf and precisely in line with the blade to do anything at all while not causing its own interference. Also a splitter can't be used unless there is a thru cut. It has to be removed for all blind cuts anyway. I use two different blades for cross cutting and ripping. Due to thickness differences the centers of the blade (and also any splitter) would have to vary as I change blades.

Personally I find good saw alignment, feather boards and push sticks far more effective than the splitter that came with my saw. I also rarely see any close up with teh lumber I buy. I never cut improperly seasoned material.

Yes I still have ten digits that are all full length. If a splitter works for you and you believe in it, then use one. I prefer not to as indicated above.