footprint of contractor vs unisaw

[David Milstone]

I can get a 9 year old unisaw (5 hp, 3 phase, 200 volt motor) in good shape (needs only new cord and plug) with 52 inch Beismeyer fence for $400, but not sure it will fit in my 2 car garage workspace. This space currently easily houses my Rockwell contractor saw with original fence. What is the footprint of a Delta unisaw compared to a Delta/Rockwell contractor saw? They look similar to me (contractor may even be larger due to motor hanging out the back) but I don't want to make a big mistake here. The unisaw is definite overkill for my abilities but it seems too good a deal to pass up. The 52" Biesemeyer is worth a lot by itself.

I don't have 220 V available in the garage, so I would either need to run a 220 V line or substitute a 110 V motor. Can this saw run a 110 V motor?

What do you think?

Thanks.

Dave

[Mike Cruz]

I don't believe that a 5 HP motor will run on 110. Check the motor, it will say whether it is 110/220, or 220 only. The amp draw on a 5 HP 110 would be huge. That saw is easily worth $2400 + new (with the 52" Beismeyer fence). $400 is a steal for that (assuming all parts are in good shape and it works well).

As for the footprint...for the saw itself, the Unisaw is probably smaller, but with the 52" fence, that eats up spcace. But if you can get it, I would! (And did recently...see my latest gloat if you haven't already.)

[Tom Slupek]

I can get a 9 year old unisaw (5 hp, 3 phase, 200 volt motor) in good shape (needs only new cord and plug) with 52 inch Beismeyer fence for $400, but not sure it will fit in my 2 car garage workspace. This space currently easily houses my Rockwell contractor saw with original fence. What is the footprint of a Delta unisaw compared to a Delta/Rockwell contractor saw? They look similar to me (contractor may even be larger due to motor hanging out the back) but I don't want to make a big mistake here. The unisaw is definite overkill for my abilities but it seems too good a deal to pass up. The 52" Biesemeyer is worth a lot by itself.

I don't have 220 V available in the garage, so I would either need to run a 220 V line or substitute a 110 V motor. Can this saw run a 110 V motor?

What do you think?

Thanks.

Dave

Foot print is smaller due to motor being under the table. Longer rails will take more room of to the right side but you can always swap them with someone here for shorter ones or cut them down.

You will need 220in your garage and a phase converter. You do not have 3 phase in your house, I just went through the same thing after buying a PM66 with 5hp 3 phase motor, I ended up getting a 3hp single phase motor.

[David Milstone]

Thanks for the rapid reply. How do you move a unisaw? I removed the base when I bought my used contractor saw and took everything in my station wagon. Can I do the same with the unisaw? I suppose it might require two trips given the table associated with the 52 inch fence. That would be fine by me.

Also, I've seen several old unisaws advertised for $500 and up, but most are older than this saw, in worse shape and with worse fences. They might still be good deals but I have been happy with my contractor saw ($150) until this deal came along seemingly to good to pass up.

[Chaz Alexopoulos]

This is very large for a 2 car garage. I know, I have one. My motor is single phase though so I was able to just take over the water heater hookup, which I replaced last year with a tankless. I have the mobile base for the saw and the additional mobil base for the extension. I roll it up against the wall when not using it and it takes up half of the wall by itself. But, I added a router to the extension table and that makes up for the extra space. Hope this helps.

[Chaz Alexopoulos]

One thing I should mention. I installed the extension table AND the right side extension wing. You can leave the extension wing off to save some space.

[David Milstone]

Thanks for the info.

Tom- Do you remember the approximately cost for your 3 hp single phase motor. Supplier? Is there a used market for the 5 hp 3 phase?

Chaz - I was already contemplating a right side extension table/router table on my contractor saw so this would fit my plans well. Would also like a downdraft table/rear extension table combo on either saw. I think dual purposing is essential in such a space.

Dave

[Jerome Hanby]

I'm restoring a Unisaw and currently have it sitting on a shopmade platform with casters. I have to work around everyday and it's completely obvious that it occupies less space than my Craftsman contractor saw.

[Jerome Hanby]

The two guys I bought mine from helped me and the three of us were able to get it into the back of my truck. If it hadn't of been stored in a building where the floor was about the same level as my pickup, it would have been dicey. Back at home, I removed the rails, Cast Iron extensions, and Cast Iron table. My Wife and I were just able to ease the rest out of the truck and onto my homegrown rolling base.

I don't see how one person could manage it without some kind of hoist.

Thanks for the rapid reply. How do you move a unisaw? I removed the base when I bought my used contractor saw and took everything in my station wagon. Can I do the same with the unisaw? I suppose it might require two trips given the table associated with the 52 inch fence. That would be fine by me.

Also, I've seen several old unisaws advertised for $500 and up, but most are older than this saw, in worse shape and with worse fences. They might still be good deals but I have been happy with my contractor saw ($150) until this deal came along seemingly to good to pass up.

[Mike Cruz]

David, first of all mine has the mobile base, so that is how I move it aroung the shop. How did I get mine home? I put a chain under the mobile base on the saw side, attached it to the bucket of my JD tractor, lifted it up and gently placed it in the bed of my truck...how else? Hehe. Actually, I knew ahead of time that this guy had no way of loading it in my pick up, so I towed my tractor along.

If you can't do it like I did, you probably need to remove the cast iron top, the Beismeyer fences and the extension table. Then it will be more easily moved.

Don't forget that yes, this saw costs $400, but after you sell your contractor's saw, you will end up only paying $250 to $300!

[Mike Cruz]

David, I'm SO sorry, I completely missed that it has a 3 phase motor. Yeah, you'll certainly need a new motor or a 3 phase converter. A 3 HP motor should run you $300 to $400. Check Ebay. Not that you have to buy there, but it will at least give you an idea of cost. BTW my Uni has a 3 HP single phase motor, standard.

[David Milstone]

"A 3 HP motor should run you $300 to $400."

A unisaw with single phase 3 hp motor currently on CL is only $444. What to do with an "extra" unisaw sans motor? This could get a pretty ridiculous in my little garage. Maybe I can find a used motor without an annoying saw attached to it.

[Mike Cruz]

Where do you keep finding these Uni's so cheap? Unless they aren't in good condition... All the ones I've seen around here are $900 and above...except the one I found...

[scott spencer]

David - If that saw is in nice shape, it'll be worth swapping motors for, or getting a phase converter for it. With the right motor deal, you could have it up and running for ~ $700. You could easily sell off the parts of that other Uni, or even the whole skeleton, and keep the motor.

It's always a shame to see anyone cut down the rails, but it is a possibility if need be. or you could swap with someone. My 2 car garage shop pretty easily accommodates a Shop Fox cabinet saw with 36" rip, and I had 40" rip before that. I get a bit less than half that space...it all depends on how you set your shop up. The Biese fence will fit the rails of most of the more popular copies that have 2" x 3" steel rails...HTC, Jet, PM, Shop Fox. The main cast iron top of both saws should roughly be the same size. The depth is typically a standard 27" deep, and the wings vary a bit. Your contractor saw's motor will hang out ~ 13" farther. I think you'll love the added mass/stability, power, full enclosure, and internal motor. Good luck!

My layout in 1/2 the garage:

[Rod Sheridan]

David, i don't have a Unisaw, I have a General 650 in the basement of a townhouse, so space is an issue.

I ordered it with 32" rip rails which of course reduces the size of the saw, and of course the rip capacity.

I don't make cabinets wider than 30" that use sheet goods, so I'm fine with the size.

The cabinet saw takes up less front to back than a contractor saw.

If the 50" rails are too large, cut them.

I also had to cut both boom tubes on my Excalibur overarm guard to optimise it for a 32" wide saw.

You'll want to exchange the motor for a single phase motor in the 2 to 3 HP range. Don't go larger, you'll not need it.

Check the starter rating on your saw. Is it large enough for a 2 to 3 HP single phase motor at 240 volts? Is the overload relay adjustable to the value required by the new motor?

Have fun with your new saw.........Regards, Rod.

P.S. Make sure it has a guard and splitter, no point losing any digits.