PC 892 Mod

[Rick Hubbard]

Last fall I got a bench dog steel router table top and mounted my PC 892 router on it. All works fine EXCEPT FOR the fact that every time I change bits, I have to remove the throat plate/insert from the table to get the motor raised high enough to get to the the arbor nuts. The reason for this is a protrusion on the motor housing for the 892's stock height adjustment feature that interfere with the raising process.

Some time ago I thought there was a thread about this same issue and the poster reported that he had simply ground the protrusion off the housing.

Does anyone remember that thread? I certainly can't seem to locate it.

Thanks,

Rick

[Rick Hubbard]

Iv'e attached a picture of a PC motor like I have that shows the protrusion I am talking about. I guess it is for the collet lock (a bad idea to begin with). I want to just grind the thing offf the housing and make it look like a PC 690 motor housing.

[Jim Rimmer]

Not an expert but it looks like you could grind off the part the thumb is on in the photo but you would lose the collet lock button and have to use two wrenches on the collet (?). The protrusion on the right appears to have the rack for height adjustment on it. Will grinding it off damage the rack?

[Myk Rian]

If you don't plan on using the router hand held, then yes, you can grind both of them off.

[Rick Hubbard]

If you don't plan on using the router hand held, then yes, you can grind both of them off.

Now we're talkin'! Nothing like a little encouragement to head me on down an unknown path.

I'm still pretty sure I saw a thread from someone else who had done this (as I recall, successfully). Sure wish I could find that thread.

Since the router will never see the ouside of the router table, and since I never use the collet lock (such as it was) then I may as well go for the gusto and grind both protrusions off.

Now...here is the rub: I wonder what the best way is to go about this act of butchery? My first thought is to use a 4 inch angle grinder (after taping up the openings for the motor cooling). I've also toyed with the idea of taking the motor to a machine shop and having it done in a less ham-fisted manner, although I suspect the cost of doing that might not make sense.

Any suggestions?

Thanks again

Rick