Thinking of returning Festool drill...

[Cliff Holmes]

But it also means that folks with existing tooling will need to either use the BHS-65 bit holder (which extends things by about an inch and a half) or modify their tooling.

You can also remove the centronic chuck and use the hex drive directly, it's a standard size.

[Jim Becker]

You can also remove the centronic chuck and use the hex drive directly, it's a standard size.

This is correct, but it has limed holding power on the bit. Not a problem with fastener types that don't grip the driver, but with Robertson/Square Drive...LOL...the bit stays in the fastener. Seriously, I do this quite a bit for "really" close quarter driving.

[Cameron Reddy]

When I put a hex shanked drill into either the end of the BHS-65 bit holder or the hex drive of the drill sans the centronic chuck, I have the same problem. The drill bits don't stay in the drill!

A small bit placed into the BHS-65 is gripped pretty well by the magnet in the BHS-65. But it doesn't hold any of my expensive Fuller hex shank tapered bits.

And nothing stays in the main hex opening of drill except Festool chucks.

I'd really like to make this work... but I can't see how I'm going to do it... I did just order a set of Festool drill bits to see if their existence improves things. I don't think they are tapered, though. And they are not my US Made Fullers...

[Jim Becker]

Cameron, I've never had a bit pull out of the BHS-65 bit holder...it accepts both wire and ball detent standard tooling. But the BHS-65 must be held by the Centrotec system...you can't just push it into the drill/driver "naked"...there's nothing to hold it on the tool outside of friction. If it's pulling out of the Centrotec...you're not fully seating it. It goes in a LONG way!

[Cameron Reddy]

Jim, thanks for your help. I'm holding the drill in my hand making sure we are talking about the same thing. The Centrotec bit holder is held onto the drill's main hex fitting. You pull the black release to attach and detach. Similarly, the green release works with the BHS-65 and you are right, you have to push the BHS-65 into the Centrotec bit holder further than you think to get it to seat fully. From that point, the BHS-65 will not pull out. I'm there.

The problem is the bit that fits into the hex opening at the end of the BHS-65. The BHS-65 holds screwdriver bits pretty well as it's got a very strong magnet. But that magnet isn't nearly strong enough to pull a taper drill bit out of wood. THATS where I'm frustrated.

[John Harden]

Someone had just posted in the now erased thread that he didn't like the drill, but liked a Festool saw and sander. I'd love to find out from him WHY he didn't think the drill was so great.

That was probably me. To be clear, I REALLY like the small Festool pad sander I have. I tested out one of their orbital sanders and didn't like it at all.

Why don't I like my $600 Festool drill? Proprietary bits required. Simple as that. Can I get around it by buying yet another Festool accessory? Probably.

Does it work well? Yes. Does it work three times better than my Bosch impact driver. No. In fact, as an impactor, the Bosch works better for winding in difficult to drive screws. Does the Festool work three times better than my Panasonic drill? No, it does not.

I have nothing against Festool. I like the clean design of their vac's, but frankly, my Fein is much quieter and provides just as much clean suction.

Festool's systainer's are also difficult to dispose of as they take up too much room in my trash can. Why do I want yet another case for tools? I have plenty of storage in cabinets and tool chests.

I have nothing against high end tools. I have a Felder slider/shaper and a Felder, 16" Jointer/Planer.

Some may disagree with my reasoning. That's fine. To each his own.

Opinions are like that. Neither right, nor wrong, just opinions. No reason to pop a vein.

Regards,

John

[Joe Jensen]

Jim, thanks for your help. I'm holding the drill in my hand making sure we are talking about the same thing. The Centrotec bit holder is held onto the drill's main hex fitting. You pull the black release to attach and detach. Similarly, the green release works with the BHS-65 and you are right, you have to push the BHS-65 into the Centrotec bit holder further than you think to get it to seat fully. From that point, the BHS-65 will not pull out. I'm there.

The problem is the bit that fits into the hex opening at the end of the BHS-65. The BHS-65 holds screwdriver bits pretty well as it's got a very strong magnet. But that magnet isn't nearly strong enough to pull a taper drill bit out of wood. THATS where I'm frustrated.

On the bit end of the BHS-65, the black knurled end will push back toward the drill. Push back, slide the bit in, and release. I use ball detent bits and it holds them perfectly. I don't use wire detent, but I am pretty sure I've read it hold wire detent as well...joe

[Paul Johnstone]

I'm considering it. Had I not received 20% Bing cash back, it would probably already be on its way.

Don't keep it just because you got a good deal on it.

It seems like you are unhappy with it, so return it.

A drill is a tool I would not spend a Festool premium on. There's so many nice drills made by other manufacturers which work fine.

[Cameron Reddy]

On the bit end of the BHS-65, the black knurled end will push back toward the drill. Push back, slide the bit in, and release. I use ball detent bits and it holds them perfectly. I don't use wire detent, but I am pretty sure I've read it hold wire detent as well...joe

Well, perhaps we have an answer. It appears I have been confused about the BHS-65. I had assumed it was the bit holder that came with my drill. However, mention of a knurled end prompted me to search for a BHS-65 and that is NOT the part I have. So, I have been incorrectly describing the bit holder. Mine does not have a knurled end that articulates to hold in detent bits. My bit holder is magnetic hold. And only magnetic hold. I will have to get the real BHS-65 and see how I like it.

[Matt Slayen]

So I am a little confused here...
I have 3 festool drills. I started with a TDK on closeout, then found a screaming deal on a used CDD and broke down real fast when the LI-ION came out last year.
I use my drills all the time.
I have never bought any of the festool bits. Am i missing something? I just put a standard bit holder in the jacobs style chuck and use that to hold standard bit tips.... If i need to drill a hole, i put a standard drill bit in the jacobs chuck....
If i am doing a lot of back and forth between drilling and screwing, i use two drills, or two jacobs chucks in the same drill (a big advantage of the festool removable chucks)...

Back to the original post, i have found that for light screw work i use my Bosch PS20 most often. I also have retired my CCD from attic and crawl space work in favor of the Bosch.

That being said, I use my festool drills all the time and will but a new one if they ever died.

MATT

[D Randall]

I have the c12 and love it. I like the weight, and I like the changable chucks. I use the centrotec chucks as much as I can for driving. I use my robertson bits in one of the BHS 65 because it hangs on to the bit. I use that for everything outside of Kreg driving. Love the weight. the battery life is right for my use, cycling the batteries enough that they get even use, and the quick charge is plenty for my needs. I only wish they had a Li-Ion battery for the c12, but the NiCad are fine so far.

[Brice Burrell]

There's a lot of confusion going on here about Festool drills and accessories. Part of the confusion stems from all the options you get from Festool drills that aren't really available from any other drills on the market. For the record, proprietary bits are not required in Festool drills. All Festool drills come with a removable keyless chuck, so all drill and drive bits will work just like in any other brand drill.

Festool's proprietary bits are needed for use in the Centrotec chuck (also included with every Festool drill). As Jim pointed out the Centrotec system is made to have reduced runout and a direct connection to the drill's output shaft. This in an improvement over almost any other quick change system out there. The downside are the proprietary bits.

I wrote a review of the new(ish) Festool T15+3 where I go over the features of the T15 in great detail. Maybe the review will help anyone on the fence make a decision one way or the other. http://www.burrellcustomcarpentry.com/subpage86.html

[Cliff Holmes]

proprietary bits required in Festool drills.

I think you meant to put "are not" in that

[Jim Becker]

I think you meant to put "are not" in that

I fixed it...

Jim
SMC Moderator

[Brice Burrell]

I fixed it...

Jim
SMC Moderator

Thank you Jim.