Tenon cutting Router bit

[Terry Welty]

Does anyone have experience with this type of router bit for cutting tenons?

http://www.mcfeelys.com/product/TG5-...ter-Bit-800627

[George Brown]

Expensive!!!

[Thomas Pender]

I would rather cut the tenons by hand and then use a shoulder plane than use this kind of bit. You almost have to (or should) use a sled so it does not rip out of your hand on the router table. Any number of tenon jigs also do a better job, especially Pat Warner's and they are safer.

[Homer Faucett]

I will say that I have never used this type of bit, which I will admit can take a big bite at once. However, it's essentially an overgrown cope cutter like you use for cope and stick joinery. I'm not sure I understand why there is the insinuation above that other methods will do a better job.

I agree, you should use a coping sled for this--one with a lockdown and handle, and I'd probably take multiple passes if I wanted a true 1" tenon, but it looks like a viable option to me. Further, I don't think the price is totally out of line based upon the size of the bit.

[Michael Panis]

Call me nuts, but I like having the ability to adjust my tenons to my mortises which are sometimes a little bigger than planned.

[Dennis Lopeman]

Or use a table saw with a jig... That router bit scares me a little! Be sure to do multiple passes - don't try to take all the meat off at once.

[Mike Cutler]

If I was doing a lot of T&G joints, I might use that bit, and have ( although the bit I have is a little different than that for T&G's)

I think the primary reason I wouldn't use it for M&T joints is that it limits tenon length to just over 1", and I cut the mortise first, and then match the tenon to it.