Dust Collection question

[Bob Weisner]

Hi:

I have read on some posts where people are using hose with a diameter larger than 4 inches. My Jet Planer Molder only has a 4 inch dust collector opening. How could it be possible to increase the dust collecting capability if I used a larger diameter hose when the planer only has a 4 inch opening?

Thanks,

Bob

[Jim Becker]

There is some benefit from the "venturi" effect that using a 5" to 4" reducer right at the hood provides on tools like this with fixed port sizes. Obviously, being able to increase the port size is even better, but not possible or difficult with many tools. But when I had my Delta portable planer, I did notice a difference in collection when using the 5" hose with a reducer at the tool as opposed to a 4" hose to a 4" drop. Very noticable.

[Karl Laustrup]

I will be watching this thread closely, as I have just gotten my Onieda Cyclone last week. Waiting on ductwork plans before ordering ductwork. Also, have to build small attachment to garage to house cyclone. Any other helpful hints in setting up cyclone will be greatly appreciated. I currently have TS, BS, RAS, RT, MS and 6"x9" sander. Also planning on lathe in future.
Thanks,
Karl
P.S. Also wondering if moving compressor outside in this same enclosure would work? I figure I might have to keep pet-cock open in winter, but are there any other problems that I am not aware of? Hoping to keep other than power tool noise to a minimum and also for space purposes.

[Karl Laustrup]

After looking at my query, I realized I had forgotten two very important pieces of equipment. My thickness planer and jointer.

[Steve Cox]

Karl,

I have both my cyclone (Woodsucker) and my compressor (60g CH) in the same closet inside my shop. I framed it up and then sheathed the entire inside with sound board, floor, walls, ceiling. I stopped the sheathing about 12" from the top and then put another layer of soundboard and plywood 2" outboard of the wall and 24" long to make a baffle for air to get in and out of the closet. This cuts down on the noise considerably. I don't have your freezing problems here in the PNW so I can't comment on the idea of an outside structure. Have you considered how the noise outside might affect your neighbors?

[Jim Becker]

P.S. Also wondering if moving compressor outside in this same enclosure would work? I figure I might have to keep pet-cock open in winter, but are there any other problems that I am not aware of? Hoping to keep other than power tool noise to a minimum and also for space purposes.

This is a good solution, IMHO, if you have the space and putting the two "noise makers" together also makes sense...and I did that in my own shop.

As to conditioning the space, if you insulate the outdoor closet well, you may find that a lightbulb or two may be all you need to keep things above freezing...they put out a surprising amount of light and don't cost much to run.

[Karl Laustrup]

Steve,

Thanks for the ideas. I think I may do the soundboard with insulation, although it will be outside. My shop is 24X30 but our vehicles reside in side when it is not a shop, so space necessitates the unit being outside. I don't have to worry about neighbors. Other than deer and other small critters only neighbor is some 200-300 yards away.

Jim,
I've noticed on other threads that you seem to know quite a bit about DC and Onieda in particular. Thank you for your thoughts. I got the 2HP Pro Industrial with remote. They said the remote would work through the wall. I hope so. I have enough room between garage windows for a structure of about 4' wide by about 3-4' deep. Height is not relevent until around 20'. The compressor is a stand up model and would fit in the enclosure except under one of the windows. All this would be outside the garage but connected. Access to the DC & compressor would be from outside.
I may pick your brain some more as I start to assemble the unit and run the ductwork. Alas, that may not be for a couple of weeks though.

Thanks again,
Karl

[Steve Cox]

Karl,

Don't forget to think vertically. My closet is about 3' x 4' and both units will not fit in side by side. I had to hang the motor unit from the wall, attach the cone, then move the compressor in behind those units. After that I could place the dust collection bin in place on its own 18" tall platform in order to get it high enough. It's tight in there but it does work.

[Mike Kelly]

I will be watching this thread closely, as I have just gotten my Onieda Cyclone last week. Waiting on ductwork plans before ordering ductwork. Also, have to build small attachment to garage to house cyclone. Any other helpful hints in setting up cyclone will be greatly appreciated. I currently have TS, BS, RAS, RT, MS and 6"x9" sander. Also planning on lathe in future.
Thanks,
Karl
P.S. Also wondering if moving compressor outside in this same enclosure would work? I figure I might have to keep pet-cock open in winter, but are there any other problems that I am not aware of? Hoping to keep other than power tool noise to a minimum and also for space purposes.

Karl, the radial arm saw, miter saw, and lathe will be your most challenging designs for dust pickup. The rest are fairly mundane because the ports that are usually designed in by the manufacturer work pretty well. Some older 14" bandsaws need some help with a 4" port or two cut in them or attached to under the table. A table saw blade guard can also be a challenge if you don't have an aftermarket item.

You may want to run the exhaust back into the garage with a cartridge filter during the winter up there. That sucker could empty what little heat you may have very quickly. Maybe that is what you ment by "pet-cock"?

Also if you are mounting it outside, mount it high enough where you won't have to make an immediate turn to get to the ceiling height inside. Fewer bends, more suck.

[Jim Becker]

Also if you are mounting it outside, mount it high enough where you won't have to make an immediate turn to get to the ceiling height inside. Fewer bends, more suck.

This is very important advice...you need a straight shot into the cyclone for maximum performance. A few feet of straight pipe insure that you have minimal turbulence as the air enters the cyclone body. The smoother the flow, the better the system will work.

[Jim O'Dell]

This is very important advice...you need a straight shot into the cyclone for maximum performance. A few feet of straight pipe insure that you have minimal turbulence as the air enters the cyclone body. The smoother the flow, the better the system will work.

OK guys, another question, not to hijack your thread, Bob, but hopefully something that will benefit all of us. What about the exhaust pipe?? If I mount my futere cyclone high to run the ducting above the rafters (7'7" ceilings) can I angle the exhaust down to the cartridge filters? I'm kinda thinking of the 2 stacked units unless that's ovekill. I'm planning a closet just outside the main shop (20 X 24) in a separate room that I will use for finishing, and possibly some assembly. But I want to duct the exhaust back into the shop, not the finishing room. Will this work? Thanks! Jim.

[Jim Becker]

Jim, yes you can. You are no longer worried about "turbulence" on the exit side of the blower. Just keep the curves as gentle as possible (use large radius elbows) for your return line.

[Karl Laustrup]

Thanks Mike, Jim B. & Jim O.
I hadn't thought about the main run into the the unit, but now I know that it should be a straight shot with turns; up, down, or otherwise.
Mike, I guess some of the collection devices, at the source of the dust, will have to be custom, is this correct?
Thank goodness I still have time to figure all this out. Still waiting on design work from Onieda and then need to find most reasonable source of ductwork to do the job.
Thanks again,
Karl

[Karl Laustrup]

Got to look at replys before posting. Meant to say without turns etc.
Brain works way too fast for fingers to keep up.
Karl

[Mike Kelly]

OK guys, another question, not to hijack your thread, Bob, but hopefully something that will benefit all of us. What about the exhaust pipe?? If I mount my futere cyclone high to run the ducting above the rafters (7'7" ceilings) can I angle the exhaust down to the cartridge filters? I'm kinda thinking of the 2 stacked units unless that's ovekill. I'm planning a closet just outside the main shop (20 X 24) in a separate room that I will use for finishing, and possibly some assembly. But I want to duct the exhaust back into the shop, not the finishing room. Will this work? Thanks! Jim.

Jim this is what I did. Can you see the input to the cyclone at ceiling height (round tube) and then the exhaust (square tube going to round) feeding the muffler which is in the rafters? The exhaust is angled a few degrees from the inlet (top view) so I could turn the exhaust back into the shop. After the muffler I had a 45 degree bend back into the shop ceiling. I upgraded to the cartridge filter and changed it to 90 degrees. http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=5750