My Box Joint Jig

[Jeffrey Makiel]

I have too much time on my hands.

I could have probably bought a gold plated commercial version with the time I invested in it.

It's not an original design, but I thought it would be neat to post. It uses a screw driven carriage to advance the board at one turn=1/16" using 3/8"x16 threaded rod.

The only unique feature is the decal that shows the location of the board should I mess up counting the turns.

-Jeff

[Don Dorn]

I made one too along the same line - it was called a Lynn's Jig. It worked pretty well but I eventually tossed it in favor of the easier method of dovetails. I'm assuming that like mine - you can cut everything with a 1/8" blade and can vary the spacing to your liking. It looks great and I'm sure you'll like it.

[Neil Brooks]

It has that look of "elegant simplicity" about it.

Nice !

[doug faist]

Jeff - is it possible to see a few more pictures, particularly the front (back?)..., the part that faces the blade.

Nice work on this project.

Doug

[Jeffrey Makiel]

Doug,
One step further...
-Jeff

[Van Huskey]

Well, that's all nifty and what not!

Excellent execution, I have seen others but this is the nicest iteration I have seen.

[Thomas Delpizzo]

That's pretty fancy! Thanks for the plans!
Stupid questions: How do use it; that is, do you clamp the wood you are to cut to the top moveable board? How do you index the first cut? How do you index the second adjoining piece?

[Jaze Derr]

Amazingly nice!!

It always depresses me when I see people's shop helpers and jigs that are nicer than what I produce as a finished product... *sigh*

I love box joints!

[Jeffrey Makiel]

Here's an updated drawing that I cleaned up to show all the main pieces. It also has some minor changes that were made during its construction.

To use it:

1. Install a dado blade or specialty box joint blade (or even two 7 1/4" circular saw blades if making 1/4 box joints) into your tablesaw. Set the blade the appropriate width and height for the box joint you plan to make.
2. Place jig on tablesaw in the miter slots with carriage to the right of the blade.
3. Clamp four boards to the carriage assembly. The first two boards and the second two boards should be offset by the box joint width that you are planning to make. For example, a 1/4" box joint should offset the board pairs by 1/4".
4. Advance the carriage so the first two boards just touches the right side of the sawblade.
5. Each turn advances the carriage 1/16". So, for 1/4" box joints, initially crank 4 rotations. Then push jig thru the running tablesaw blade to make the first notch.
6. For all subsequent box joint teeth, advance (or crank) double the amount. Again, for 1/4" box joint, crank 8 times for 1/2" of carriage movement (1/4" tooth and a 1/4" gap = 1/2" total movement).
7. Repeat until done.

I would also like to say that I got this idea from a fellow SMC'er, but am unable to find that post again.

-Jeff

[Will Overton]

If you bought the "gold plated" jig you mentioned it wouldn't have been worth posting ... this definitely was worth posting. Thank You!

[david brum]

There is a less refined version described on Lee Styron's (Shark Guard) website:http://www.leestyron.com/lynnjig.php.

I made on a few years ago and it works fine. Not NEARLY as pretty as yours though.

[Alan Schaffter]

No calipers or any measuring device needed, no counting crank turns, use on a tablesaw or router table= perfect 1/8" - 7/8" joints, first time, every time- just wait . . . . It WILL be worth posting!

Nice job, Jeff.

[Mikail Khan]

Nice. Thanks for posting.

MK

[Jeffrey Makiel]

If anyone wants clear plans of the Box Joint Jig, just send me a PM with your email address. I will send you a crisp pdf file and some detailed photos.
-Jeff

[David Micalizzi]

Nice job on the jig well done!