Favorite way to remove rust...

[Kyle Stiefel]

Hey folks,

Well, after more then 2.5 years I finally got my tools out of long term storage in Alaska. All the effort in protecting from the salty island air in SE Alaska wasn't successful. I will now have a much smaller shop, not setting up the majority of things including my Woodsucker DC (love that thing) as I am renting.

To the point whats your favorite ways to remove rust. I am always interested if there is a faster more efficient way of accomplishing a task. So let the verbage fly folks.

Here are a few pics of the carnage.

[Carroll Courtney]

Wire wheel on angle grinder,but safety glasses is a must----Carroll

[Logan William]

Wire wheel on angle grinder,but safety glasses is a must----Carroll

Only on surfaces that don't matter. The wire wheel will remove more material then you expect and flat surfaces won't be flat anymore. BoShield makes a Rust Remove that I recently picked up, I haven't tried it yet but have heard good results. Also do a google search for electrolysis, lots of old iron that gets restored gets stripped of paint and rust via electrolysis.

[Bryan Morgan]

Only on surfaces that don't matter. The wire wheel will remove more material then you expect and flat surfaces won't be flat anymore. BoShield makes a Rust Remove that I recently picked up, I haven't tried it yet but have heard good results. Also do a google search for electrolysis, lots of old iron that gets restored gets stripped of paint and rust via electrolysis.

Its Rust Free. Works good but make sure you are in a well ventilated area or be prepared for some burning nose hairs. Also, don't leave it on more than a minute or two or the metal turns black... which is why you use the grey 3M pads.

[Lee Koepke]

naval jelly, sanding pad, elbow grease, patience.....

[Bryan Morgan]

That doesn't look too bad. Some Rust Free and gray 3M pads should fix you up.

[Jack Pinkham]

A phosphoric acid solution followed by a conversion coating. Sherwin-Williams products are described here: http://www.sherwin-automotive.com/me...ish/AS1025.pdf
For deep rust use 2" or 3" diameter Scotch-Brite surface conditioning discs on a pneumatic angle die grinder, followed by the etch and conversion coating.

[Chris Fournier]

There is absolutely no need to grind, brush or sand the surfaces that are being discussed. Fact is, with the mechanical methods recommended your surfaces will bear witness to the fact that rust was removed - not nice to look at and it reduces the value of your equipment/tools.

I have used a car battery charger, a scrap of steel, a water/baking soda solution and a plastic tub to remove rust from metal items for years. I'm talking about rusted castings that looked like junk to hand tools that look like they were buried for years. I didn't have to use harch chemicals or a lick of elbow grease and the results would beat the elbow grease method every time.

I have discovered that large flat surfaces like a table saw top can be cleaned up of rust without being in a water bath, a wet towel can be used instead of immersion. Clever idea, I wish that it had been mine but thanks goes to Frank Ford!

Quick 6 mil poly lined "wood tubs" can be made up in the shop for dedicated rust clean up and then just as quickly dismantled.

Check out this link and you will never remove rust mechanically again:

http://www.frets.com/HomeShopTech/Qu...stremoval.html

[Kirk Poore]

Wire wheel on angle grinder,but safety glasses is a must----Carroll

I'd go just a little more elaborate--a knotted wire cup wheel on the angle grinder. Works very fast, doesn't throw wires nearly as much.

Kirk

[Karl Brogger]

I'd go just a little more elaborate--a knotted wire cup wheel on the angle grinder. Works very fast, doesn't throw wires nearly as much.

Kirk

That's my vote. Then if you're psychotic, 320g, 400g, 600g, 1000g, wool bonnet on a 9" grinder with a rubbing compound. DAMHIK

And as far as protecting it if you have to in the future. Grease, plenty of it too.

[John McClanahan]

Be careful using a brass wire brush on an angle grinder. From what I have found out, most brass wire brushes designed for use on power tools is actually brass plated steel. (Some simply don't say) While it looks like brass, the tips doing the work is the steel core. Solid brass wires are not strong enough to hold up to the repeated flexing of a high speed tool.

[Greg Portland]

YIKES some of these suggestions are good and some are just plain ruinous if you want to keep your tools in good condition

When these threads pop up, there are always some people who recommend naval jelly, wire wheels, & other "harsh" methods of rust removal. Then another group runs in claiming that these methods will destroy your tools. I have yet to see or hear of someone actually screwing up a large piece of machinery using these methods. If you have ever tried to flatten the bottom of a hand plane then you know how much effort it takes to remove even a -slight- amount of metal (coarse diamond grit + a lot of time). The other gripe is when people claim that WD40 (or other solvent) will ruin the future finish of any piece of wood it touches. This has not been my experience with any solvent that has been hand-wiped off the cast iron.

My recommendation is to use synthetic steel wool + ROS + lubricant (WD40, kerosene, etc.). If you want a polished look then finish with finer grits.

I have tried many preventative products and IMO Boeshield works the best. I have also had a lot of success using covers that sit completely flush (no airspace) with the cast iron.

[Scott Hildenbrand]

WD40 does make a fine lube for what ever rust removal process one might choose which requires one, but it sucks as a protectant and should be wiped off and followed by something such as a paste wax or, as you state, Boeshield or similar.

"MY" point in saying it would transfer is for anyone who just sprays down the top in the hopes that it won't rust and never wiped it off, or just wipes most off. It's not a top coat after all.

But anyway, like you say there's always lots of friction in these discussions.

[Chris Parks]

When these threads pop up, there are always some people who recommend naval jelly, wire wheels, & other "harsh" methods of rust removal. Then another group runs in claiming that these methods will destroy your tools. I have yet to see or hear of someone actually screwing up a large piece of machinery using these methods. If you have ever tried to flatten the bottom of a hand plane then you know how much effort it takes to remove even a -slight- amount of metal (coarse diamond grit + a lot of time). The other gripe is when people claim that WD40 (or other solvent) will ruin the future finish of any piece of wood it touches. This has not been my experience with any solvent that has been hand-wiped off the cast iron.

My recommendation is to use synthetic steel wool + ROS + lubricant (WD40, kerosene, etc.). If you want a polished look then finish with finer grits.

I have tried many preventative products and IMO Boeshield works the best. I have also had a lot of success using covers that sit completely flush (no airspace) with the cast iron.

Short of getting and angle grinder fitted with a grinding disc on it I don't think anyone here would have the patience to affect the flatness of a top to any noticeable degree. It is a machine fer god's sake and I for one want my machines to work not look pretty so shiny as new surfaces don't worry me. Others here think it is a priority and that is their prerogative.

[Kyle Stiefel]

Wow, hot topic. So I finally got around to removing the rust tonight. My previous method was just some Naphtha with the green pad followed by a topcoat of Renaissance Wax.

This time with some real rust involved I started with the Naphtha, a rag and razor blade. I then moved onto the Barkeepers Friend with the green pad followed by the Renaissance wax. I have to say without a doubt the $2 bucks I paid for the Barkeepers from the local grocery store was well worth it. I maybe spent about 20 minutes on the jointer for example.