Dovetail question

[Greg Labacz]

I am going to try doing dovetails. My question is how many of you do hand cut vs using a jig and router? I'm leaning to doing hand cut which I know has a learning curve ,but , due to $$$$ I'm staying away from the jigs.

Merry Christmas and a safe New Year

[John Thompson]

Hand cut since 1972 for me personally. Dove-tails become a signature joint when hand cut as you can size and space them as randomly as you wish.

[Don Dorn]

I'm not against jigs - but count me among hand cut. It's both fun and rewarding and doesn't take near as much time to learn as you think. There is also no end to the ability to customize as you wish.

[Josiah Bartlett]

I do bandsaw assisted hand cut. It takes a lot less time then setting up a jig unless you have several joints to do.

[Mike Henderson]

I do bandsaw assisted hand cut. It takes a lot less time then setting up a jig unless you have several joints to do.

I do the same.

Mike

[George Bregar]

Fine Woodworking table saw/bandsaw method for through dovetails.

[frank shic]

i use the frank klausz method and have still yet to use my porter cable omnijig rofl. there's also the more technical rob cosman method but i love the freehanded method that klausz teaches. that reminds me... i gotta get rid of that omnijig one of these days...

[Gary Curtis]

Greg, you will save about $1000 if you learn to cut dovetails by hand. The Leigh Jig, or the WoodRat which I have cost that amount. The WoodRat unlike other jigs does allow you to vary spacing and tail size.

I've been too occupied with other projects to learn the hand method. But I will. On the other hand, my first stab at making machine dovetails was a set of 9 drawers. The speed amazed me. One of the prominent woodworking instruction books answers the question of how to price various joints if you are selling your work. The author suggests that one fully dovetailed drawer should be billed out at 8 hours.

Machines equal speed, if that is your purpose.

[frank shic]

i should also add that learning how to cut dovetails is not nearly as hard as you may think it is. the main prerequisites are: a sturdy vise to hold the boards securely while you cut the joints and the ability to sharpen chisels. you can use almost any saw to cut them: gent's saw, dovetail saw, tenon saw, frame saw (tage frid) and even a hacksaw!

[Greg Labacz]

thanks for your responses. I'm going to try and do hand cut.

[Ryan Hellmer]

Hand cut has its place, but I have the AKEDA jig and love it. For one-off stuff handcutting is probably the best, but when you have a chest of drawers with 8 drawers and a couple night stands to put together cutting 40 sets of joints can become tedious. I love the variability of the AKEDA as well as the quick learning curve and repeatability is great. Sounds like you've made a decision (and a fair one) but for me, I just don't see hand-cutting as a feasible option based on my production requirements and limited time (and I'm just a hobbyist).

Ryan

[Neil Brooks]

IMHO, this one DOES fall rather nicely into the "hand tools or power tools" question.

I've never done hand-cut DTs. I bang them out rather adequately, using my P-C 4212 jig.

But ... I would think that the hand-cut method is far more satisfying, allows far more "art" in the execution (you CAN do variable spacing on many of the jigs), gives you a feeling of accomplishment that a jig really doesn't, AND .... teaches you a lot about the joinery.

IF you have the time -- at least at first.

IIRC, Marc Spagnuolo (the Wood Whisperer) has a good how-to video, on his site, for hand-cutting DTs.

Good luck !

[Jerry Olexa]

If in a hurry, a Keller jig is FAST and simple...I had a new KELLER jig cutting DT's in 10 minutes...But a purist WWer would do handcuts for a heirloom look..

[Brian Kincaid]

IMHO, this one DOES fall rather nicely into the "hand tools or power tools" question.
I've never done hand-cut DTs. I bang them out rather adequately, using my P-C 4212 jig.
But ... I would think that the hand-cut method is far more satisfying, allows far more "art" in the execution (you CAN do variable spacing on many of the jigs), gives you a feeling of accomplishment that a jig really doesn't, AND .... teaches you a lot about the joinery.

Same experience and opinion. I use a Leigh D4 (variable spacing; for through only 8degree tails, half-blinds are variable tails depending on depth of cut http://www.leighjigs.com/cutters-d4.php). Since I leave one router set up, and use two for the operation I can cut them pretty quick. I have gotten so used to the jig that I do a single test corner then go to town.

They are not automatic however and the look and fit is largely due to how skillfully I cut them, so when I have them come out perfect I feel great. Examples of poor technique are: blowing out front/back, rocking router leaving gaps, poor glue-up leaving gaps, glue ruining stain/finish.

The $1000 estimate is a little high. D4's can be had for $300 on the used market. Even if you buy two 1-2HP routers for a dedicated setup you are still only at maybe $500-$600 dollars. But, great dovetail saws are just north of the $100 range so the point is well taken.

-Brian

[frank shic]

thanks for your responses. I'm going to try and do hand cut.

please post pics!!!