Looking for vector ruler file

[doug parker]

Hi folks. Here's a design for a small key chain for a promo. I wanted it to show off the various capabilities of the laser. Hope it comes in handy for someone!

Ed

Ed, What is a good material to do these in? Acrylic? Thanks Doug

[Ed Maloney]

I think that acrylic would be best for sitting in someone's pocket. Note that I rounded the corners slightly to take the sharpness out of it.

[Randy Walker]

Thank you Aaron. I am in the process of making templates for a process and your "duplicate" trick was just what I needed to made it quick and easey.

Randy Walker

[Stephen Beckham]

I thought someone posted some dials he had made in vector format... Anyone recall that post?

Thanks,
Steve

[Kevin Groenke]

We make rulers out of scrap PETG for use in the shop. We vector engrave the lines and raster out text, backfill the engraving with enamel and sand off to make the rule translucent.

Surprisingly easy to read through when laid on top of a drawing, but not annoyingly transparent.

The price is right. .040" or .060" PETG is really tough stuff.

I've been thinking of making architects and engineers scales but haven't gotten the gumption. Anybody have any to share?

[Kim Vellore]

Kevin,
That is an awesome idea, thanks for sharing.

Kim

[Mark Ross]

Hmmm....

Note to self, pull out the old slide rule and start duplicating it. Nothing said fashion for engineers back in the day more than a slide rule on your belt!

[Bill Cunningham]

Hmmm....

Note to self, pull out the old slide rule and start duplicating it. Nothing said fashion for engineers back in the day more than a slide rule on your belt!

Yup!! And a pocket protector full of pencils..
Ooops sorry, that was the computer department..

[Robert Walters]

We make rulers out of scrap PETG for use in the shop. We vector engrave the lines and raster out text, backfill the engraving with enamel and sand off to make the rule translucent.

Surprisingly easy to read through when laid on top of a drawing, but not annoyingly transparent.

The price is right. .040" or .060" PETG is really tough stuff.

Hi Kevin,

Those looks really slick!

Would you mine give the details on what "enamel" you used,
and your technique on how you applied it?

Since you mentioned sanding, what grit did you use?
I can't see any scratches in the PETG.

About how long does it take to fabricate one?

[Viktor Voroncov]

What I did few years ago - special rulers for police, may be will be interesting for somebody

[Robert Walters]

We make rulers out of scrap PETG for use in the shop. We vector engrave the lines and raster out text, backfill the engraving with enamel and sand off to make the rule translucent.

Hi Kevin,

The lines are very sharp in the photos, nice job.

Would you mind sharing what "enamel" you used, and how it was applied?

When you say "sand off", is that the excess enamel too, or just the PETG to make it translucent?

[Kevin Groenke]

I just back-filled the engraved areas with a random oil-based paint that was in the shop. The paint had been around for a while so it was fairly thick. I used a silkscreen squeegee to work the paint into the engraved areas while minimizing the paint left on the surface. After the paint set up, I sanded the back with 120g or 150g on a random orbit sander to take off the excess paint and to make the rules translucent. We sand acrylic and petg all to time to make it translucent, as long as your careful and consistent and work down to at least 120g, the scratches really aren't noticeable (that's the point of the random orbit after all).

I've found that it's most efficient to engrave an entire sheet, backfill and sand, then go back to the laser (or a shear) to cut out the individual rules.

After doing this a couple times, I can make a 16"x32" sheet of rules (16@2"x16") in maybe 15 minutes, plus ~40 minutes for the lasering as well as the time it takes the paint to dry.

I've found that bumping the laser ~.020" out of focus makes the line a bit wider which seems to hold the paint better.

-kg

[Robert Walters]

I just back-filled the engraved areas with a random oil-based paint that was in the shop. The paint had been around for a while so it was fairly thick. I used a silkscreen squeegee to work the paint into the engraved areas while minimizing the paint left on the surface. After the paint set up, I sanded the back with 120g or 150g on a random orbit sander to take off the excess paint and to make the rules translucent. We sand acrylic and petg all to time to make it translucent, as long as your careful and consistent and work down to at least 120g, the scratches really aren't noticeable (that's the point of the random orbit after all).

I've found that it's most efficient to engrave an entire sheet, backfill and sand, then go back to the laser (or a shear) to cut out the individual rules.

After doing this a couple times, I can make a 16"x32" sheet of rules (16@2"x16") in maybe 15 minutes, plus ~40 minutes for the lasering as well as the time it takes the paint to dry.

I've found that bumping the laser ~.020" out of focus makes the line a bit wider which seems to hold the paint better.

-kg

Hey Kevin,

Thanks for the info, much appreciated!

Only 120g?! I expected more like 400g.
I only have a finishing palm sander atm, we'll have to see what happens =)


One last question...

When you say "oil paint", are you talking like...

house paint
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1...atalogId=10053

or like artist canvas type paint?
http://www.universityartcatalog.com/...05_990606.html

[Kevin Groenke]

I've found no reason to sand past 250g, I'm not trying to polish the plastic and I don't want it to take forever. A normal orbital sander should work OK, but it won't be as quick or as consistent.

If memory serves correctly, the paint was a Krylon Oil Enamel, I imagine a variety of paints/inks would do the trick, I just happened to try the oil based paint first and it worked. If I'd gone out to buy something, It might have been something different.

-kg

[Chuck Patterson]

Where do you purchase PETG at?