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Thread: LN or Stanley #5?

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Columbus, Ohio, USA
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    3,444
    Quote Originally Posted by john davey View Post
    He went on to explain that the newer planes are machined quite nicely but their main benefit was the ability to quickly set them up and change them. whereas an old #5 takes a little time to make adjustments. He said as a cabinet maker it was imperative for him to save the time and his Lie-Nielsen planes pay for themselves.
    My experience agrees with this. Namely, I could take nice shavings, but if I wanted to change things a bit, it took much more work than I was used to with my LN planes. Also, there is a big improvement with an after-market blade such as the IBC, Hock, or LN. I have an old Stanly #8 that I use. The plane is fit with a LN blade and chip-breaker. There are still some annoying issues with it sometimes, but, I don't adjust it as much as some of the other planes (like my #5).

  2. #17
    First, thanks everyone for your helpful input.

    I think I'm going to go with the Lie-Nielsen. I want the #5 to be a "Jack" plane, as in Jack of all trades (though master of none). Given the amount of time and frustration I've already had with the 2 planes I have now, I think it's time to get something that will work right away. I've also got a son due in a few weeks and have been assigned some woodworking projects for his room. The sooner I can be up and running the sooner I can get down to business. Time is worth more than money this week.

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    West of Boston East of worcester north of RI South of nashua
    Posts
    87
    I have both - a stanley T15 no 5 and a recent LN no 5. I agree that the no 5 does not neccessarily warrant the need for Lie Nielsen, but I do sure enjoy using it.
    Andy
    Keep Life Simple

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Charlotte, MI
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    1,524
    Quote Originally Posted by Andy Hsieh View Post
    I agree that the no 5 does not neccessarily warrant the need for Lie Nielsen, but I do sure enjoy using it.
    And that's all that matters. Best of luck with your new plane... and your new child!
    Your endgrain is like your bellybutton. Yes, I know you have it. No, I don't want to see it.

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Benbrook, TX
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    1,245
    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Henderson View Post
    A good Stanley Bailey #5 will do all you need to do. If you want "better" get a Bedrock 605. For either, put a modern blade in it and you'll have a great plane.
    I would sooner by the LN as a 605 and premium iron. The cost difference wouldn't be much, as a 605 that doesn't require considerable rehab will set you back a c-note or more. You can also go low-angle on the LN and have a more versatile plane.

    I've grown weary of trying to fill shop needs by finding and rehabbing old iron. I would probably enjoy it if I had more time on my hands, but I found I was spending more time on that then actually using the tools.

    My compromise on planes is to make my own woodies with Hock iron kits. The kits are $50-$60. I can build one in a tenth the the time finding and rehabbing and old Bailey would take, and get better results.
    Last edited by James Carmichael; 03-02-2011 at 8:03 AM. Reason: addition

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Columbus, Ohio, USA
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    Quote Originally Posted by James Carmichael View Post
    My compromise on planes is to make my own woodies with Hock iron kits. The kits are $50-$60. I can build one in a tenth the the time finding and rehabbing and old Bailey would take, and get better results.
    I was thinking about doing this..... The videos make it look like something I could do.

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Pleasant Grove, UT
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    1,503
    While the OP has made his decision, I'm going to throw a little extra point for consideration for anybody else facing the same dilemna.

    How clumsy are you?

    If you have concrete floors, and have been known to knock things off the workbench, trip, and/or drop things, then that vintage metal plane, whether a Bedrock, Bailey, Millers Falls, Sargent, Record, etc, etc, is at high risk. You can break a modern ductile iron plane, if you work at it. You can break a vintage cast iron plane by just accidentally nudging it over the edge of the workbench and letting it take a dive into Concrete Canyon.
    It came to pass...
    "Curiosity is the ultimate power tool." - Roy Underhill
    The road IS the destination.

  8. #23
    I recently decided no more planes I have to work hard to refurbish, so I bought a LN #5 as my first "good" plane. My others aren't bad. They are mostly stanley's off of ebay, and most took a fair amount of work to get them working right. Admitting that my old planes did a fair job, I have to say this LN is really nice. The only tuneup I did was to check that the iron was flat (it was) and to put a secondary bevel on it. Now, all I need are ALL of the other planes LN makes (this may take a while. . . )

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Manchester, CT
    Posts
    39
    You are overlooking a great jack plane and that is the Veritas bevel up jack. It will cost you no more than buying and rehabbing a Stanley 605 with a modern blade and cap iron and in the end you will have a better and more veratile plane. I have been dealing in antique and vintage tools for a long time and I do love them, but for a great user I also love my bevel up jack. It has the mass to do heavy course work with ease and the fine fit to do very fine work. I can take sub 0.001" shavings with it. Just another option for you to consider.

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