A few photos of my shop and some of my OWWM's

[sunny nic]

wow, so amazing shop.

[eugene thomas]

great shop. I would hate to make sawdust thouhg cause would get shop all dirty if my shop was that clean though.

[Logan William]

I don't think you have enough room for the motorcycles, you should sell me that nice bandsaw and belt/disc sander combo .....beautiful shop!

[John Sanford]

Good looking shop, love all the windows. Your color scheme is a bit off though. Too much black and orange, you should have used a lot more

red

or blue.

[Jack Clay]

You have a very nice shop. I was wondering whatPowermatic Band saw you have and did you rebuild it?

[David Gandy]

The big floor answer:. First, do a search on the web for acid stained concrete. Find a dealer or order online what you need. You will find some instructions on the web. I began by cleaning the floor after the drywall work was finishedl....what a pain and I pressured washed and scrubbed. Most important factor when staining your floor is to get it clean. Any drywall mud of other foreign substance left on the floor will surely leave spots, ask me how I know. I purchased acid stain to my color preference and used golf shoes with the old metal spikes and sprayed this solution with a pump up garden sprayer. The instructions tell you to spray evenly, however, regardless of how even it is sprayed it tends to collect where it wants to collect, thus the purpose for the golf shoes so I didn't leave foot prints when I went back over areas to attempt to achieve the most even application I could get. Kind of futile labor but I was able to fill in a few spots that weren't covered as well. Next day mix a couple of five gallon buckets of water with whatever the instructions tell you how much baking soda to add to neutralize the acid, pour on the floor and commence to scrubbing and washing down with a water hose. This was rated second in the suckjob catagory to the initial cleaning but MUST be done until the floor is pristine....then...let it dry for a day or two. Do not use the floor until after the clear coat is applied as it is easily damaged by even walking and turning your shoes. I used the oil based clear coat and applied 15 gallons over three days with an extra long paint roller. Put it on thick....I finally resorted to pouring a big blob on the floor and spreading it with th roller. You will see light bubbles and some texture from the roller but not to worry, it flows out pretty well before it drys. I applied three coats to 1500 sq ft which took three 5 gallon buckets of the stuff with a little left over. Let dry before using the floor and it stays a little soft for three or four days after depending on the temperature. For the most part, this floor is pretty sweet and looks really great.....The concrete was poured during the fall and there were many leaves just under the surface of the smoothed concrete that I washed out when I was cleaning for prep that left beautiful little imprints in the floor that took stain and looks really cool. I was initially kinda pissed when all of the leaves were going into the concrete during the pour but afterwards, they really added character. The clear coat I used will scratch and I am a little careful with it but if I get a scratch, I just clean the area and paint on some more of the clear coat and it blends right in to the rest of the floor which I really found kinda amazing. I think some companies make a clear coat that is activated with isocyanates that is more durable but that is not what I used. Anyway, hope this helps for those of you that have an interest.

Doer