blast gates

[Alan Schaffter]

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I can't figure out why one would want to use an expensive $30 sensor when there is absolutly nothing unsafe or wong with tapping on to the motor on/off switch to operate a Solenoid , relay or what every for a autogate. Accessorizes are commonly run off machines in this way. I do use similar devices , the Sears Auto Switch Model 24031 on my shop vacs to operate toosl., about $17. However I found them redundant and almost quit using them . At each work station I have plug strips with the circuit breakers. I have found it's just as easy to plug the tool and vac into the strip fro on/off then the Sears unit. Please give me an exact example where the $30 current sensor is cost effective? I just don't get it for shop apps.

Well, first, I didn't pay $30 for my CRM current sensor switches, and in fact didn't pay $20, which is what DigiKey was asking at the time. If you followed the link in my previous post, you would have seen I paid a lot less (less than $10 ea.).

Secondly, you obviously don't care if you have extra 110V or 220V cords or leads running everywhere and don't have any machines wired for 220V otherwise you wouldn't be using "plug strips". If you do have some 220V machines, are your wired "accessories" 220V also? If the accessories are 110V did you replace all your 220V cords with 3 wire + ground SJ, or are you being unsafe and violating most codes by getting 110V between one hot and ground?

I have 12 electrically activated pneumatically operated gates, 9 of them configured as autogates for my major machinery. No gates are mounted on machinery where they can be damaged. All are hidden below the floor or behind knee walls- the only thing coming from each machine is its power cord and dust hose, so it is easy to move any machine. All gate wiring is hidden as well and is low voltage (24V), lightweight bell wire, which is safe, easy to run, and INEXPENSIVE! If you follow this link you can see a video of how my DC system is configured. At this link you can see photos and a description of my shop. Mine is the first one listed.

Since we haven't seen even one photo of your shop or equipment, I suspect it is easy for you to use Sears Auto Switches on your "Figment" machines, DC, autogates, etc. Please prove us wrong.

[Dan Friedrichs]

Well, first, I didn't pay $30 for my CRM current sensor switches, and in fact didn't pay $20, which is what DigiKey was asking at the time. If you followed the link in my previous post, you would have seen I paid a lot less (less than $10 ea.).

...and if you're up for a slightly less ready-built solution, you can buy a current sense transformer for about $3 (Digikey) and add a cheap MOSFET to build your own current sensors.

Since we haven't seen even one photo of your shop or equipment, I suspect it is easy for you to use Sears Auto Switches on your "Figment" machines, DC, autogates, etc. Please prove us wrong.

Methinks Aaron should be paying the power company some extra money for the horrible power factor his shop must exhibit....you know...using all that imaginary ( ) power and all....

[Aaron Rowland]

I just typed in the CR magnetics model 9350 that you showed and $30 came out. What do to I know?\Since your shop is old how much would the parts cost into days money? I use plug strips on my workstation for 120V tools and the shop vac I mentioned with the Sears current sensors. Didn't say anything about 230 V. My point was I don't like the Sears current sensor that triggers small tool like a jig saw , router, drill and etc. . It leaves the tool hot. I had a tool fall off the bench once and it turned on when it hit the floor. I prefer to just turn the plug mold switch off so no danger of a hot tool coming alive.

For the solenoid gates I have both 120V and 240V solenoids depending on what the machine is wired for. A very short length of wire is run between the solenoid and machine. Lots of machines come with 230V wire with a plug. No problem. That's the way Europe is wired. No, I do not split a 230V line to get 115V. Not good and you are right. There was a big discussion of codes here once . Didn't really get a usable answer. The electricians tell me its up to the City or county where you live and it's all over the place. 3 different code books nationally.

Not to sure how a gate could get damaged mounted to a machine. At least not the way my shop is set up.

I've seen pic off yours many times. So why in the world would I want to show you mine? as the old saying goes.

If my posts confuse you sorry. All you have to do is ask nicely for an explanation. By the way I noticed that your cyclone must be inside your shop. All that dust collected on the bottom cone due do push through design is not good and indicates a poor seal. I used push though at one time when all I had was a 2HP blower. When I got bigger blowers with the right size impeller there was no reason to use this method. Some claim because of the spin the blower puts on the air before it enters the cyclone separation suffers. You don't use a filter and exhaust out side like I do, so no problem. Is heating the air in the winter a concern? I find it no problem. The only time push though is beneficial is when you are stuck with an undersized impeller.

I enjoyed your posts and generally agree with your comment by the way. Very informative . Thanks.