Despite it's outrageous price, does anyone have one of the "Leigh Frame Mortise and Tenon Jigs"?
Has anyone seen one in action?
Any comments (pro/con)?
Thanks!
Randy
Despite it's outrageous price, does anyone have one of the "Leigh Frame Mortise and Tenon Jigs"?
Has anyone seen one in action?
Any comments (pro/con)?
Thanks!
Randy
Randy,
Here's one of many posts on WoodNet
Bill Esposito
Click on my user name to see the link to My Personal WoodWorking and Tool Review Pages
'Dont have it but have seen it in action at two of the woodworking shows. It's an impressive tool that does what they say it will do. I didn't see the manual, but expect that Leigh will have done as good a job as with the most excellent D4 manual.
My impression is that this is not a tool for the occasional woodworker unless the Prize Patrol has been by. But for the serious shop that does a lot of M&T, it could be just the ticket amongst several options.
--
The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...
I have one. I think it is serial #136 or 137.
It's very cool, works better than I imagined. First real use of it I made was at a get-together of a bunch of friends from *ahem* another forum. One of the fellows had the parts cut out to make a table. Eight mortise and tenon joints, 13 1/2 minutes on a stopwatch. Didn't break a sweat.
I disagree with Jim's implication that it is too pricey for the small or hobby shop. I know several guys who have Powermatic 719A mortisers, which cost about the same amount. A difference is, 719A doesn't do the tenon.
Dave
(Oh, the manual is every bit what you'd expect from Leigh)
online. I don't think that would be too big a deal, and it might sell a few more units by answering questions. Like: what do you do when the tenon is more than twice as long as the insert allows? Or maybe the question should be how do you do the tenons on something like a table skirt?
David, still drooling...
I didn't mean to imply that the tool wasn't for the small or hobby shop...just that "most" hobbiests probably would not be inclined to invest in one or couldn't due to the price. I should have been more clear. I certainly would consider one for my shop, but there are a lot of priorities ahead of it! (Like a complete kitchen rennovation-plans on my site, a drum sander, a much larger lathe, etc.)Originally posted by Dave Arbuckle
II disagree with Jim's implication that it is too pricey for the small or hobby shop. I know several guys who have Powermatic 719A mortisers, which cost about the same amount. A difference is, 719A doesn't do the tenon.
--
The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...
Jim, I know a lot more hobbyists with Felder combination machines than professionals.
David Rose wrote: what do you do when the tenon is more than twice as long as the insert allows?
David, I'd be happy to try to answer. I'm not sure what insert you're referring to, though?
Tenon length (along the grain) is definitely limited on this machine. The cutting length of the router bit minus about a half inch is as far as you can go. Call it a couple inches max, probably. Still makes a pretty good joint in my opinion.
Dave
I own a FMT as well, Dave let me jump in. If you want to make a really long M&T, longer than the FMT allows, you make two with a small space in between.Originally posted by Dave Arbuckle
David Rose wrote: what do you do when the tenon is more than twice as long as the insert allows?
I just got an FMT because buying a floor mortiser just doesn't make sense once see one of these babies.
If you are saying, why spend the $600 or what every when a Drill Press/Table Saw work fine, that would be hard for me to justify. But all my tools would be hard to justify on that scale!
_______
Dave Arbuckle said: David, I'd be happy to try to answer. I'm not sure what insert you're referring to, though?
_______
What I referred to was the plastic insert (proper term?) that controls the router shaping of the tenon. I noticed that instructions say that a tenon of twice the length of the insert (spacer?) is the maximum. Or something to that effect. I am posting this from memory which really isn't safe. ;-) If I understand the operation the length of the insert controls the *width* of the tenon.
The "width" of the tenon is what I am "concerned" about. I think Peter "interpreted" my question. So you just move and reclamp the board and recut?
I hope this was more clear. I'm rushing it at work.
Thanks!
David
I do NOT have the jig, rather jig envy....
I saw the Leight FMT jig at the last WW'ing Show. I was impressed and as a father of young ones, I thought 'man I might actually defer to M/T joinery with the FMT' it seemed so quick and easy (which means the demonstrator was doing his job.)
The price is definately holding me back. If it were <$400, I'd pick one up....
Is a set up Mission style bunk beds a big enough excuse to get one of these?
"Never have a philosophy which supports a lack of courage."
But, of course! Especially when you figure in the other pieces you need to build to match as well as the similarly design master suite accommodations and dining set.Originally posted by Mark from NW Minn
Is a set up Mission style bunk beds a big enough excuse to get one of these?
--
The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...
David, I think Peter addressed your question too. What you are referring to is the template, sorry for not getting it.
You don't need to move the wood though. The jig accomodates this.
Here's a picture of FMT from the back.
The angle is not real good, but hopefully you can kind of see some slots on the top? Those are where the stops are for the sliding platform, the whole thing can move. The ones on my right control left/right movement, on my left control front/rear movement.
So what you would do in this case is set the front/rear stops so the table cannot move that way, then make a tenon on the left position, slide the table over, and make another in the right position. Easier to do than to type, actually.
Dave
(photo legend: that's me with no cap on. To my left in the hunter's cap is Rich, it's his shop. Then is Trosey, it's his table. )
Dave,
That's really a cool-looking jig. Out of curiosity, have you ever tried out the WoodRat? If yes, I'm very interested in how you'd compare them.
- Ed
Ed, I own neither, but have been studying both for about as long as the FMT has been available.
So... from studies *only*, I think the Wood Rat is more versatile doing many other jobs as well as M&T. I also think it is as accurate as you can mark and align a board to a mark. My tired eyes are not that accurate, so I am looking at the FMT which seems to do M&T with templates (got the "word", Dave ;-) ) to precision without "eyeballing" other than to center the cut to a crosshair. Setup seems more involved on the Wood Rat to me.
David, who is being forced into "drool mode" by Dave A.
I've never even seen a WoodRat. Several people who have them are on the various forums, and it seems to be a well-liked jig. I have a bit of a prejudice against buying sight unseen, so they never made it really high on my list.
Dave Rose, if you ask I'll tell you how FMT adjusts glue lines a thousandth of an inch at a time by just turning a knob. But only if you ask, I wouldn't want to be accused of being a pusher.
Dave