Finish for shop cabinets

[Clint Olver]

take a look at the Earlex 5500. http://www.earlex.com/hv5500.php

It is a very popular and affordable HVLP system. You can find tons of reviews on them. Here's one from the Woodwhisperer http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C7LCQ6WVkVU

Varathane Diamond is a water based, hard, clear, affordable finish. Easy to spray, easy to clean, and isn't like spraying toxic death like some of the quick dry lacquers.

C

[Ole Anderson]

For shop cabinets I like a film finish. Without a spray rig I say go with wipe-on poly. Make your own don't buy it. Poly cut with 50% mineral spirits. I would build up about 4-5 coats, hand sand it with 400, hit it with a coat of wax and be done.

Exactly what I use, down to the 400 grit and wax, I use the 400 on an automotive durablock (hard foam) and I have not yet tried mixing my own wipe-on, I use the Minwax satin wipe-on poly. And the 400 grit is on an automotive PSA roll just wide enough to fit the block.

[Greg Berry313]

Doors - DONE
3 coats of Arm R Seal - DONE

Now, doors don't fully close without closing them at the same time, adjusted the euro hinges to the max and need about 1/16 or a little more to close

Should I shave off the difference with the tablesaw? I don't have any hand planes except a block plane but don't have a table vise to hold it.

[Greg Berry313]

Now I know full overlays leave a little on the sides

[Ole Anderson]

Doors - DONE
3 coats of Arm R Seal - DONE

Now, doors don't fully close without closing them at the same time, adjusted the euro hinges to the max and need about 1/16 or a little more to close

Should I shave off the difference with the tablesaw? I don't have any hand planes except a block plane but don't have a table vise to hold it.

If they don't close now, wait til the TX humidity picks up. My go-to tool for taking off a little would be my jointer, but lacking that I would probably go with the TS, my skills with a plane leave a lot to be desired.

[ian maybury]

It's fairly clear there's at least two schools of build and finishing in workshop cabinets - the 'work of art' tendency, and the 'get to something functional for the least possible input' tendency...

I have to say i tend towards the latter, but there's nothing wrong with pouring embellishments into workshop stuff either if it suits to use your time that way - and one project as good as another in that respect unless you need to make a living from it.

In keeping with this (and bearing in mind that i'm not set up to spray) my preference for workshop stuff has so far been a satin finish water based clear acrylic (like those made for floor finishing) applied with a sponge brush (for crevices) and a sponge mini roller. (larger surfaces) Finish with a quick rub over with an abrasive mesh.

It's not the greatest in warmth of colour/tone, but a coat is dry in a few hours, it's dead easy to clean up after (with water), and there's none of that interminable waiting for an apparently 'dry' surface to harden up that you get with oils and oil based finishes...

ian

[Lonnie Stephens]

Greg, Us wood freaks all like the natural look of wood in our shops. If your cabinets have good clear veneer and doors and faceframe wood are of the same general tones then as others have mentioned, a poly finish will look great and be very servicable. If however if the wood has imperfections that detract from the look you what, you could always paint your cabinets, with a roller to give it a textured look. Great for hiding imperfections. Maybe paint carcass and poly your doors! Mix it up, live on the wild side!

[Jim Andrew]

If these are just plywood shop cabinets, why not consider using prefinished plywood? The finish is very tough. I've used the stuff for kitchen cabinets, and just finished the face frames and doors, drawers. The finish is tough enough sliding around on a table saw doesn't faze it. Notice you can order prefinished at Menards on their ad.

[Ole Anderson]

What type of prefinish is that, phonelic resin? If so, that stuff is awesome and used for signs. plus it is usually on a premium plywood, but I can never find it anymore.

[Jim Andrew]

Can't say what the finish is, but I bought the prefinished sheets from Liberty Hardwoods in KC. They supply a lot of smaller cabinet shops around the area, and most of the shops are using it to avoid problems with regulations. Noticed Menards had an ad for prefinished.

[Greg Berry313]

Finally finished just have to get some shelf pins! Didn't always have alot of time after work to spend on them.

photo (1).jpg

Finished with three coats Arm r Seal on the exterior and used Seal Coat on the insides. I'll post some more later tonight, sorry for the quality my old iphone3 is behind on the times, I took the other ones with my iPad2 so hopefully they turn out better.

Critiques and constructive criticism welcomed. I learned alot from the mistakes made with these and my next project will benefit!

[Greg Berry313]

Here's a couple more.

12 - 2.jpg12 - 3.jpg

[Todd Burch]

Pretty fancy! Gonna put some hardware on those bad boys?

[Alex B Hatt]

Very nicely done. Arm-R_Seal is great stuff and I use it a lot if I'm not making up my own wipe-on poly. Any plans for handles on the cabinets? Or is there a recess (cove routed out) in the bottom area of the door?

Cheers,
Alex

[Greg Berry313]

Haven't decided on hardware yet, may just do a recess on the bottom. I've made a couple pulls with some scrap maple that I had from the doors and like that also. I'll decide later down the road, on to my next projects! Dog crate end table for the hound and washer/dryer pedestals