I do not think I would do it without replacing the hinges also, I use 155 degree zero protrusion when I do slide-outs.
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Gary
I do not think I would do it without replacing the hinges also, I use 155 degree zero protrusion when I do slide-outs.
379875_1709186385414_1710734569_846724_1687540320_n.jpg
399726_1709186505417_1710734569_846725_854768797_n.jpg
Gary
"Chaos is the law of nature. Order is the dream of man."
Wallace Stegner
Many of the kitchens that I build have no lower doors whatsoever, only drawers. One option, although a bit more intense would be to just do drawers and make new fronts to match. Doors with pullouts are clumsy in my opinion and I do not see the point.
Larry
I just did this - "helped" a friend execute a Christmas present promise for his wife.
Here's what I found - the drawer glides need 1/2" between the shelf and the opening. The hinges projected less than 1/2" - but not by much. Since they were face-frame cabinets, with full overlay doors, the front end of the glides were screwed directly into the face frame, and everything cleared just fine.
"We" did have to build a frame to mount in the back of hte cabinet to support the glides. He had purchased glides to match the length of the drawers he wanted, which were 4"+ short of the cabinet depth. If he had gotten full-length glides, then he could also have gotten the accessory mounting brackets to screw to the cabinet backs, and the framing would not have been needed.
When I started woodworking, I didn't know squat. I have progressed in 30 years - now I do know squat.
Thanks for all the ideas, has anyone looked at a website called SLIDE OUT SHELVES LLC. they have a bracket that attaches to the existing shelf from below and the slide attaches to it, it looks like a good idea, any thoughts or ideas?
YOURS TRULY,DARIN