Since it will be inside the flue i would think that is insulation enough. It shouldn't be cold enough to cause condensation in the pipe.
Since it will be inside the flue i would think that is insulation enough. It shouldn't be cold enough to cause condensation in the pipe.
If I had six hours to chop down a tree I'd hire someone else to do it and put my time to better use.
We have both furnace and water heater going to the same flue liner. Un-insulated, and no problems. The brick chimney is enough for it.
Had all kinds of problems with the bricks cracking from freezing moisture until the liner was put in.
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I would call the building inspector and ask him/her about the liner,will the liner be touching the inside wall of the flue ? if the liner are position away from the flue inner wall [ next to the house ] then this will be a type of insulation
The most important thing is having the flue liner the correct size for the appliance. 4 inch is typically correct. As you have noted, the larger size cools the gases too fast and causes condensation in the pipe. I would go with the unlined.
Spending that kind of money to line a chimney for a gas hot water heater makes me wonder if you would be better off putting the money into a more efficient hot water heater. A super high efficiency hot water heater can be vented into PVC pipe which would allow you to avoid the current masonry chimney altogether. Or you could put the money into a tankless water heater, again allowing direct venting to pvc or if you use electricity to power the tankless, no venting is needed.
Today there are more efficient ways to heat hot water than the old fashioned gas hot water heater, so spending that $1000 on more efficient equipment instead of a flue liner could save you money in the long run.
I didn't even know you could get insulated. I think I'd pass on that. Do you like the placement of your current water heater. It's often dictated by the need for a chimney which you would no longer need if you replaced it with a power vent model. Its a plus for air quality as well. At some point, you could also take down your chimney, at least below the roof line and eliminate a pretty significant heat loss. I know at one time there was even a state refund for people who did that in Wisconsin.
For a natural gas water heater I don't believe you need stainless liner. I believe aluminum is acceptable. Its worth checking because the cost difference is huge.
Agreed, that's a lot of money. I put in a high effeciency furnace and the pvc was a snap to run out a wall. A new tankless that uses pvc vent will probably run you quite a bit more if you pay to have it installed but might be worth it depending on the age of your current water heater. There's one in my future when time allows for installation.
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Yes I would get a high efficient Nat gas water heater so you could run PVC I have seen them run the PVC up the old unused flue if you did not want to run to an outside wall.
Thank You
Ed