File all saw rip over 10ppi???

[John Coloccia]

The only real problem I have with bow saws, and why I don't use them, is the dearth of available blades. There are some available, but it's not like it used to be.

[Tony Zaffuto]

This thread has really sparked an interest in getting a bowsaw. For first "dipping of my toes into the water", what does the group wisdom suggest? I will say, I highly doubt I would consider a bowsaw for dovetails, but otherwise, what say you?

[Jim Koepke]

I find an interesting point to compare in these two statements:

I would never buy a backsaw, they are clumsy and heavy.

...

Tage felt that bowsaws are a little harder to learn to use which results in many disliking them simply because they do not take the time to learn to use the tool.

I have not taken the time to learn bow saws. One day I will likely make one and give it a try. I have a cheap metal frame bow saw for cutting fire wood. To me that doesn't count as a real/quality bow saw.

Currently after using my backsaws a lot, it seems I just can't get enough of them.

I think it all comes down to that with which we are comfortable using. Most of my early dislike of backsaws was the discomfort of the handle. A bit of work with rasps and gouges has changed this. Making my own handle for a saw plate has also left me wanting to do this even more. My only fear is that making saws could become as addictive as making shavings.

jtk

[Jim Koepke]

This thread has really sparked an interest in getting a bowsaw. For first "dipping of my toes into the water", what does the group wisdom suggest? I will say, I highly doubt I would consider a bowsaw for dovetails, but otherwise, what say you?

My suggestion would be to build one. They are not a difficult project. That likely depends more on the individual and what they have to in their shop to take on such a project.

My reasoning is that this would make for a lower initial investment and possibly bring more enjoyment in use.

jtk

[Mike Holbrook]

I had plans to try a bowsaw too. I talked to, I think it is Glenn, at Woodjoy Tools. I had no hardwood and no way to turn handles so he was going to put a kit together for me. He got busy with a construction project and I got interested in the Western saws and it never happened. Wood joy makes some great saws, might be a good place to get ideas, parts....Gramercy makes the small turning/bowsaw and I think one can get a few parts there as well.

I will revisit this type saw. I even bought a smaller toothed blade from Highland Woodworking. The Turbo Cut blades are sort of the equivalent of a Japanese blade that one can use in a bowsaw. These blades even come in several lengths. They are more the disposable type blade but I think they are better than most of the less well made regular rip or crosscut blades you can find for bowsaws.

A large part of my attraction to this saw being the thinner blade that is not as sensitive to how it is filed, back to the op topic...

[David Weaver]

This thread has really sparked an interest in getting a bowsaw. For first "dipping of my toes into the water", what does the group wisdom suggest? I will say, I highly doubt I would consider a bowsaw for dovetails, but otherwise, what say you?

Emmerich from the best things. Pick your size, and then pick your blades.

For everything other than cutting curves, I haven't ever found bowsaws to do anything better than any other saw, and have a big emmerich saw hanging on the wall, nearly unused. It works appropriately, but I haven't got much use for it for anything other than cutting curves, which it would only do if my bandsaw broke.

[george wilson]

We used bow saws for years in the musical instrument shop. In fact,if you have seen our film on harpsichord making,Marcus and I are using an old frame saw(for cutting veneer) to cut the veneer for inside the spinet case. It had about a 3" wide blade,and worked fine,though it was a pretty heavy saw.

[John McPhail]

Woodjoy Tools. Mine is excellent.

This thread has really sparked an interest in getting a bowsaw. For first "dipping of my toes into the water", what does the group wisdom suggest? I will say, I highly doubt I would consider a bowsaw for dovetails, but otherwise, what say you?

[Kees Heiden]

Just to add some context to tage frid. On continental europe it's almost impossible to find antique handsaws of the 'british' pattern. It's all frame an bowsaws on ebay. de. The handsaws came much later. Likewise for metal planes. They are rare too.

[Charlie Stanford]

Tage Frid's bowsaws were all indeed filed rip, but he started with 12ppi crosscut blades and filed them rip. He didn't crosscut with 5-7 ppi saws for the record.

[Jim Koepke]

He didn't crosscut with 5-7 ppi saws for the record.

I bet he would have given it a try if he had to cut through some of my old rail road ties.

jtk

[Charlie Stanford]

This thread has really sparked an interest in getting a bowsaw. For first "dipping of my toes into the water", what does the group wisdom suggest? I will say, I highly doubt I would consider a bowsaw for dovetails, but otherwise, what say you?

ECE makes the best 'out of the box' bowsaw, but they are more topheavy than they need to be due to the use of a steel rod instead of string as a tensioning device. You can get used to it, but wrist muscles you didn't know you had will come into play to keep the saw balanced the first few sessions you use it.

[Pedder Petersen]

Tage Frid liked the bow saws and the others is because he had an apprenticeship as cabinetmaker in Denmark. Using big bow saws has a long tradition in continetal europe. The saws aren't filed rip / cross just different rake angles from -5° - 20°. Bow saws have advantages related to hand saws, because they can have thinner blades (0,020"). But I think you need a few years to get used to the high centre of gravity. I don't like them much.

Cheers
Pedder

[Mike Siemsen]

Another bow saw user from continental Europe is Frank Klausz. To get back to the original question, it is much easier to file rip, especially on a fine toothed saw, for many new to saw filing they would be better off filing rip and using a sharper saw than trying to file cross cut and ending up with a mess, or avoiding filing until the saw is too dull.

[steven c newman]

Just got through filing a 12(?) point saw by filing it rip. It seemed to help fix some snaggle teeth. Teeth were a bit over-bent, and worn. Jointed level, and filed rip. On a full sized hand saw.....that is a LOT of teeth.....I have a 6point up next, and it will also get the rip file. An 8 pointer was refiled by just following the profile already there. File was kept level though.